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Found 30 results

  1. Hi guys, I've just picked up a new - old - anvil here in Wales, UK, and I've been directed here by some blacksmiths as the place to go for any insights into age, maker etc. All I know is it is old - it's been suggested to me that it might be 18th century, and possibly a Mousehole, but I have literally no idea. Any insights or info would be gratefully received. Thanks. The working face is 11.5 inches long and 5.5 inches wide, the bick is another six inches. The anvil is 11 or 12 inches tall. It has four feet and the body is pretty roughly made. There are no obvious markings - at least none that I can see.
  2. Dearest Hivemind, Just picked up this beautiful 3 1/2cwt. Raised lettering so likely cast base and clear welded face seam. Face is glass hard and looks to have only seen work once or twice in her life. Wondering if anyone knows the make and possible age? A Google trawl turned up very little unfortunately. Cheers as always, James
  3. As some of you may know, I was able to cast my own anvil that I was unfortunately unable to bring to market, but love to use! I now work at the foundry that makes the Rhino anvils for Incandescent Ironworks. This post, however is not about those either. This post is about some tiny anvils that we make as more of a desktop toy/paperweight. They are 6" from tip of the horn to end of the heel. They weigh about 3 pounds. The one pictured below is made out of a high-chrome white iron, but theoretically we can make it out of a variety of alloys, with or without heat treatment. If there is a big enough order, maybe as little as 100 anvils, we would even customize the lettering (instead of Wear-Tek, it could say whatever else would fit there). The opposite side looks just like the side pictured below (same lettering/logo). I would like to get a batch made of the same alloy as the Rhino anvils and get them heat treated, just for grins. Other than possibly setting rivets on them, these things are just for fun though. So my question to the forum: Do you think these would sell? Like if I were to contact Old World Anvils, or Blacksmiths Depot, or some place like that, would anyone think of buying one with their logo on it? Would the alloy and heat treatment be of concern to you if you wanted to buy one? I am quite interested to hear your thoughts on it. Thanks!
  4. Hello all, new to the board so forgive me for any wrong doings I might have done already. Today I bought this anvil from an Uncle. I can [barely] make out Peter Wright Patent on the side aswell as 1 1 15 155lb I believe. I already know I stole it at $100 but I'm curious if there is a way to know its age. I plan to use it for beginning my bladesmithing adventure.
  5. So I got a chunk of 4140 hardened steel for an excellent price on fleabay. And I found a stump up the road thanks to hurricane Irma. How should I mount it?
  6. Just finished my fullering device, a tool I only recently learned about and only recently learned how necessary they are. So I went ahead and bought a 36 inch steel rod 1/2” and it pretty much turned out just as I planned. The spring section is crudely forged and ugly but it’s very springy, and although some stuff is unaligned the two rods are aligned and fit well, so any suggestions or comments on it? Thanks. Spent about 25-30 mins on it PS: I know my anvil is ugly and tiny, it’s onlt $85 and all I can afford right now, the next best is way over my budget for tools
  7. Jaro Petrina

    New anvil

    "You are positivelly crazy, but .............resourcefull!
  8. Hey guys, I'm new to this forum so if this post is out of line let me know. I'm just getting into the trade and I'm looking for anvil to buy, preferably about 100 lbs or heavier. I live in Washington state and I was hoping someone on here lived in my area and had an anvil for sale. Thanks!
  9. Hello, My main question here is "What kind of steel is a jeweler's anvil made from?" I had a plan to get a new anvil since the one I have been trying to use is in conjunction to a bench vise. Needless to say, it isn't great. So I looked around for anvils but most of the ones I have come across are cast iron (and cast iron doesn't make a good anvil.) Not wanting to give up, I found an old piece of railroad track on ebay for a good price and free shipping. My plan was to cut the 8" rail into two 4" pieces and grind the bases so that they would fit side by side. Next I would weld the pieces of track together so that they would be one piece and form roughly a 4"x 4" face. Next I was going to use a previously purchased jewelers anvil that my sister got and abandoned years ago. So, is the steel used for a jeweler's anvil a hardenable/good steel? Do you guys think my setup will work for an anvil? Let me know! Thanks! (I should mention that the jewelers anvil is just a 4"x4" steel block)
  10. Hi All, Recently I made a bidding on a anvil for sale nearby and ended up being the highest bidder \o/ The guy told me it was used in a smithery for some years and i figured it is in good shape let go for the challenge and try to get this beauty to its new home. She is ab 250 Kg / 500 pounts and was for sale at 145 euros, excluding the heavy workout. There is no stamp of mark so far i can see so i have no idea how old she is nor the background she came from... Maybe somebody can help identifying this anvil?
  11. hey guys, so recently i posted about an anvil asking questions blah blah. anyway i had this idea of upgrading my HB anvil by welding a piece of flat leaf spring on the top, do y'all think this might work? it would just be temporary until i find a used anvil.
  12. Howdy! I'm new here, so anyway I'm looking at 2 anvils right now, one is an NC 70 pound anvil. the other is one from eBay which is 5 pounds heavier, has a better center of mass, has a usable horn, and has a much larger surface area, and 20 bucks cheaper! but I'm a little scared to buy this unknown anvil from eBay. the nc anvil is $288 from centaur forge with 10% off my first order so it would be $259, and the eBay anvil is $240 (shipping combined). so anyway my question is done anyone have any information on this eBay anvil? should i go for it? heres this link. Table Top Shop ROUND HORN FARRIER WELDING BLACKSMITH SOLID 75 POUND STEEL ANVIL | eBa by the way I'm using an ASO HB cast iron anvil right now, so this will be an upgrade UPDATE, i just noticed a casting line on the horn...
  13. I am looking for an anvil or forge I do not care about the type, but the anvil must be at least be 10 lbs. Since I am on a tight budget If I can get an Anvil and forge for under $40 each I will be in good shape. Please message me if you are willing to sell.
  14. Yesterday I got my first anvil. It is made by the National Supply Co. Toledo, Ohio 150 pounds. I did some google searches and have not had to much luck other than finding out the most basic info. I have a couple of pic, but they are from my cell phone. I tested the rebound and it is about 80%+ by the horn. But there is a couple of spot were it looks like they tried to weld the chips in the edge and the rebound about 40%. I was wondering if any one else have this brand of anvil or have worked with one. I am more that happy with it...it is so much better than the piece of RR track I was using. Thank you, DW
  15. I finally got my anvil weight, she weighs in at 250kg (around 551 lbs) and boy am I happy, especially because I only paid 100 dollars or so for her and a new one of same size would run me 5000 dollars where I live. But i´ve been thinking, how do you polish the face of an anvil ? sandpaper or something more ? There isn´t any rust on the face should I just leave it be though it isn´t shiny ? [
  16. I made this anvil stand today for my new railroad track anvil. It's made out of stacked 2X12's. I still need to put a bar of steel across the front and back to serve as tool holders. The anvil is an 11" piece of railroad track. I'm on the hunt for a real anvil, but haven't had any luck finding anything good.
  17. Troels Saabye

    Gordita

    From the album: Iwasaki kiln

    got my old anvil from a widow whos husband was a blacksmith, she weighs 551 pounds
  18. jheinen

    Anvil Stand

    From the album: Jeff H's Work

    An anvil stand for my railroad track anvil.
  19. Hello, community. I purchased my anvil from an antique collector more than half a year ago and to this day I haven't mounted it to the steel pedestal he threw in with it. I'd love to be able to use this as the stand, since its so sturdy that it's MUCH heavier than the anvil, but I can't figure out a good way to mount it. Does anyone out there know what I should do?
  20. First I would like to say hello, I´m a "new" member (lurking around since february) and this is my first post. My goal is to make my very own hand forged knife, so I had to upgrade from my 10kg / 22lbs piece of railroad track "anvil" to a something little more massive.. and I came across this PFP anvil. I bought it for 110 euros (apprx. 123 USD), it has a weight of 45kg / 99lbs. It has a nice rebound, a clean and flat face with only minor marks on it, the edges are also in decent shape and I´m quite pleased with it! It is also marked as: EINHEITS P.F.P. AMBOSS 45 I found this strange, because I have been looking for a suitable anvil for quite some time and the P.F.P´s are usually marked as ORIGINAL P.F.P. Also it seems that someone tried to reshape a round Pritchel hole into a square Hardie hole?? Anyone knows what the EINHEITS stands for? Thank you.
  21. Hi all, I've started to make some knifes and I just picked up an anvil on craigslist...the only thing I found was the number 7...I took some pictures this morning
  22. First I'd like to start out by saying hello. I'm a new member, and this is my first post. I recently purchased an anvil. I'd like to know your thoughts. Please feel free to critique it. I bought this from a man who graduated from the old Denver Horseing School. I payed $500 for the anvil(110lbs), and an anvil stand which looks like it was for shoeing. He also included 2 fairly nice hammers( I asume), which he said cost him around $80 a piece, and 3 tongs. I would also like to know about refinishing the anvil as far as surface rust. Just hit it with a wire brush to remove rust and oil it up with some 5-30w? Cover with an oily rag after that? I also own a Dayton 10" drill and a very heavy Wilton vise named "Blue". Suggestions on other tools? I'd like to buy a forge a start hammering. Thanks a million!!
  23. Hi all! this is my first post in Bladesmithsforum! Looking forward to it! i recently (today) got my first anvil, i got it from my friends deceased dad, and i got it for free. it is a Kohlswa from sweden and it is quite banged up. so, i turn to you guys for help. what do i do with it to get it to working condition? it's not really important to me that it looks really good, but if i can get it to look decent, and work, i am content i've added some pictures as well! as you can see, there is alot of dents in the top, as well as a large cracked seam on one side. i don't think i will bother with the crack, as long as i can get the dents out! looking forward to hearing from you guys, and sharing with you how it goes sincerely, Stig P.S. sorry for craptastic pictures!
  24. Hi all, This is my first Post here but I have been reading page after page here for weeks. I know that their is a ton of posting on much of this, which is why I am mostly looking for some Opinions on what YOU think would be best. Also if anyone lives near me (Ellicott City Maryland) that is okay with offering help and advise when I run into a situation where I need it, let me know. Okay so here goes First up........ Anvil. I can get my hands on some 1045 round stock 4" Dia by 7" or 5" dia x 8.6". 4" is around $50 and the 5" $80. no luck yet with finding a local supplier with a decent size drop, but I am Stil looking. I was also considering the 4140 4"x4" from Old world. 4" 1045 is about 24 Lb the 5" is about 47 Lb and Old world is 25 but its also heat treat and free shipping. which one should i go for? Next for the Damascus.... I am going to be ordering from Aldo at NJSteelBaron.com but Was thinking of doing up a billet of 1095, 1084, and 15N20. Was wondering if anyone has seen anything with this mixture or If you think i should just use either 1084/15N20 or 1095/15N20 mix to keep it simple. I am hoping to make a dagger that has a subtle variation; kinda like someone making a pattern wielded/Damascus out of 1095/1050 mix (Walter Sorrels had a vid he did this in), with the addition of the higher contrast from the 15N20..... Hopefully that came out right and you know what I mean lol. Again Super happy to be here Im working on setting up my own personal setup right now (for my house) and I am getting the forge built hopefully done within a week or so. Thanks in advance
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