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  1. I found a 700gr hatchet in a market that had an elongated and teardrop "eye" for the handle with a beatiful shape. I took it with the idea of modifying it and obtaining a bearded one with the addition of a steel beard obtained from the leafspring of a truck thick enough to be forged. then I cut away a piece of the bevel of the purchased axe and welded the leafspring. then I forged the new bevel, reshape the profile, heat treated and sharpened it. with a nice piece of walnut I made the curved handle and with a piece of lthick leather a sheath to protect the edge (and myself). for those who w
  2. Hey guys, I thought I would share my latest project. I bought this axe for $5 at the local flea market and really wanted to make it stand out. I decided to construct it more like a knife where I put a steel tang throughout the entire handle. For the handle, I used Walnut and Maple pieces to give a good color contrast. This was my first time trying metal etching. I love how the etch worked, however I wish I would have etched it even longer to get a deeper depression in the metal. To get an even deeper etch, and add a little more design, I took a rotary tool and bored it out even further. I
  3. Some time ago I came back to a model of an axe found in Lipowiec (Southern Poland). I took some pictures during work and I'd like to show the tools I used to forge it. You can see them on the picture at the vice. Another picture shows an anvil, power hammer and coke forge and the mentioned vice on the right side. I also used mig welder and belt grinder plus angle grinder. Axes were forged of wrought iron and a strap of 80CrV2 on the cutting adges. They came out slightly different despite I tried to make them same One weights 402g (0.886 lb) another one weights 462g (1,018 lb). One was ma
  4. So. I've been interested in blacksmithing for a very long time, but it's only this year that I've taken a good and proper, hard look at the mechanics and science behind it. How blades where made, hardening and tempering, that sort of thing. That coupled with my writing hobby, I was bound to think up a few fantasy blades. Most I scrapped almost immediately because they looked really cool and was about as useful as a toothpick, but I've been stewing about this one design for a long while now, and I'm willing to take the plunge to see what you guys think about it It's...
  5. Engraving a couple of new steel tags for another Roger Bergh and SaraMi axe. And noticed that this part of the forum has been quiet for a while.. Hope this will liven it up a bit
  6. Hello all! It's been quite some time since I had the chance to get on here, and I must say that I've missed the company. Over the last year or so I've been in and out of the states and working out of a historic shop in the CA state parks district when I can. For the better part of that time, I've been working my way through forging a collection of tools to process and frame timber (so far a few axes, an adze, froe, a few large slicks, and others) which I will post sometime soon. The next project of the lot is a broad axe, and although I will use this thread as a WIP, I have a few question
  7. Some of you who attended the Swords through the centuries event last weekend got to see most of these. I've since replaced all my containers with archival safe foam and materials thanks to Mr. Shea donating some scraps of ethafoam he had. It's nothing like Jeff Pringle's collection, but it's my own =) A fellow nearby me who is conserving a viking sword and scabbard pieces recently unearthed let me onto the fact that there's some fairly reasonable priced authentic viking pieces coming out of Estonia and Latvia on ebay right now, and so I've got another couple axe heads coming my way afte
  8. Hey guys I just made a slot punch and a drift (almond shaped) in order to use the punch and drift method to forge an axe. I was wondering if you guys could critique them and tell me if you would make any changes. The slotpunch is unfinished but will look like the handled punch up top I got from GSTongs. Obviously I still have some grinding to do but I still have time! I saw this video where a guy drilled 2 holes about the length of his slot punch and then punched through normally. What is the purpose/advantage of this? Does it make it easier to keep the hole straight? Any other general tips on
  9. One of my latest ones, big boy blade
  10. Recently finished uploading the final part of building my version of Ragnars axe from 'Vikings' Please excuse my bad english....i'm just a lil' kraut...!!!
  11. Yesterday evening I finished and heat treated my mini tomahawk head made from an old rusted prybar, and it successfully hardened to my surprise. I just did some research on tempering and wish I knew to temper the blade sooner, or that I had time to do it after the quench, but now it's the next morning and I don't know if tempering would be safe. The steel is fine and did not crack overnight and everything seems to be okay, but can critial damage be done during a temper similar to that of a heat treat? I heard 400F for 3 hours, cooling it every hour is the way to go, but this late after a treat
  12. So I finally finished my axe head and I was an idiot because I fit the handle (after multiple polyurethane coats), attached a leather handle too, but I just now noticed the wave in the hatchet edge, near the bottom (it has a slight Viking beard to it). Any way to straighten it without affecting the wood or leather handle? Again the wave is at the edge so my thought was to maybe buy a propane torch and heat up the edge, then lightly hammer it out to a better shape, then just re-treat it buy running the torch along the edge and heat treating it. Im open to any suggestions, but as a beginne
  13. Hey everyone, just finished, or finished the rough finish on my "viking" axe, which now looks slightly more like a generic tomahawk sort of. As a beginner with only weeks of experience, I'd call this a major success and boosts my morale for gaining more and more experience. Obviously compared to most work on this forum this is in the range of bad to mediocre, but I'm pretty proud of it. Since I used a new hatchet head for the start, I had a lot of extra steel to work with for a smaller axe, and it was very hard to work out the shape I wanted from it since it needed a lot of modifying, might've
  14. Hey guys, as a beginner, forging for only a few weeks with only a few finished knives, I decided to maybe do a modification rather than a knife from scratch. Can't say it's good so far but after about 30 minutes in day 1 I'd say it's a start! I'd love to hear some honest feedback, how to make it better, and if it's a good start! Please no nasty comments, I'm very new at this and would like critique and not harshness, thanks! I'll continue to post my progress, may take a while to complete! Also, if I sprinkle some borax on the axe before I decide to treat it, will it make it look cleaner? I've
  15. Ok so as I mentioned in my last post I screwed up making a handheld viking style hatchet, so I went to Lowes and picked up a pretty cheap wood handle hatchet. It's not a bad hatchet, but the handle is on there good and I don't really want to ruin the handle or make it unusable incase the other handle can't be fit on. So I was wondering if anybody had suggestions for how I could get this handle out, most likely epoxy used too. Epoxy I could just heat up and soften it, but I have to loosen the wood first. I'm fine with drilling into the handle and patching it up later with glue or something, but
  16. So I was planning on turning an old, rusty, cheap camp axe into a shiny Viking style axe with a modified handle. All was going well but then I noticed that around the beard of the axe the steel got way too soft, like almost play-dough like soft, every strike would send it back super far and I got a lot of folds and the steel ultimately started deteriorating. When it cooled down it looked almost powder-y and I don't know why. Could it have gotten to that point because it was too hot? Or maybe it was just really cheap steel? Also, when I tried grinding it to shape (and failed), it produced a lot
  17. Good morrow, fellow smiths. I present for your consideration my first attempt at a small (one-handed) battle axe in the Viking mode. If I did my research right, this should be something like a Petersen type C axe, though I'm not going to try to claim historical accuracy on this one because the eye shape is a tomahawk-style teardrop, and because it's made of one solid chunk of steel. I documented the whole process so that those of you who know more than I do can critique it, and hopefully it will of value to those of you who are looking to get into axe-making. Anyway, without further ado, t
  18. This is my attempt to make a reconstruction of the Mammen axe. The body of the axe is made from mild steel, with welded blade of 0,65% carbon steel The workpiece Еngraving and inlaying of side with "bird" ornamentation Inlaying of other side In compare with drawing of authentic axe
  19. Hello, this axe is now going up for sale, i did a work in progress on it over in the edged tools subforum of bushcraftuk (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141510) This axe was forged entirely by hand, and the haft handcarved from a locally sourced piece of ash. Here are some specifications: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The price is 170£ / 200€/ 1500Dkk / 225$ + shipping If inte
  20. Hello, i recently finished my journeymans-test, and so have a bit of time to focus on axes again. So here is another one: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The haft is ash from the local sawmill. As forged: A bit of grinding later: and finished: a comparison with the well-known GB sfa: Best regards Peder Visti
  21. Hey guys here is a small Viking axe I just finished. It's made from 1018/W2. This was my first time making an axe and forge welding so it isn't perfect. I have a few delaminations but overall I like it. Tell me what you think and I would appreciate critiques and advice. Thanks!
  22. 3 Fighting axes inspired by the Viking style. Mild steel bodies with bearing race edges forge-welded in. $175 each. Email adriaang66@gmail.com
  23. I found myself in the need of a broad axe, because I want to hew some oak logs into beams. But I can´t decide what kind of Wood is best suited for axe handles, I have the following in stock : Juniper, oak, beech Wood, Birch, plum, cherry, ironbark, Willow and Aspen(populus). It isn´t about the aesthetics since I like all of them and think they all make beautiful handles, but which one is best suited for axe-handles ?
  24. Hi! Recently I forged an axe using traditional ancient technicques. I showed some stages of forging in this thread: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33026&p=319833 And on my blog: http://lipinskimetalart.blogspot.com/2016/02/toporek-wczesnosredniowieczny-bearded.html I'm asking 220$ including insured shipment. If you have any queastions a wanna see some more details on picture, I'll do my best to answer. Weight is 305-310g (10,7-11oz)
  25. Hi All. Today I finished a bearded axe. Before I managed to forge this type of axe I f*****d two "Learning must cost", as my Dad says But finally I did it, and It's done with historical technicques. I documented some steps - particulary those I consider more difficult. Tomorrow at daylight I'll take some better pictures of finished axe. Over the weekend I'll put it on my blog as well. It is raw, not everyone likes this look but I do Edit: Material is wrought iron, the cutting edge is low alloy tool steel NCV1 (approx. 0,75-0,85 C).
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