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Showing results for tags 'bearded axe'.
I Built the starting bars a few years ago and found them again recently so I figured I would give this a shot. The starting bar is 3/4" thick, 2" wide and 4" long. I cut the end where the blade bit goes and welded a handle on it. Then I drew out the shank. I Jim's video he says to make the shank 1-5/8" wide, but it certainly doesn't look that wide in the video and I couldn't imagine how you could make the cheeks less than 2" tall starting that wide, so I made mine 1-1/8" wide. It was hard enough with that smaller width getting it 4-3/4" long. I put
How to Forge a Railroad Spike Axe (by thepxsmith) Smash the point into the shaft. Keep smashing. Try to keep it from bending while smashing. When you get to 4”-4.5” you can stop smashing (Your forearms will be super tight and your fingers curled permanently around your hammer by now). Make a slit in the top side. I use a slot punch, usually takes 3-4 heat cycles for me to get it through. Drift the hole out just a wee bit. No need to get crazy here, we will come back and refine this later. Flip it back to the side and hammer the “ears” down a little. This will also open the drift hole more so
First off: Thank you! to Jake Cleland for agreeing to let me muck about with his Drow Short Sword design. (http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26418) So, with a major nod to Jake, here is my concept of a weapon produced as a collaboration between Drizzt and Bruenor. (If you don't get it...oh well) Once again; The drawing is full scale so I left out any measurements... Pommel to front of ring guard: 6" Ring guard to head (just above the twisted ear): 9.5" Edge: 4.75" The dotted lines in the head indicate my initial thoughts on forge weld overlap, those may/will shift a bi