Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'bearded axe'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2019
    • KITH 2020
    • KITH 2021

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 3 results

  1. How to Forge a Railroad Spike Axe (by thepxsmith) Smash the point into the shaft. Keep smashing. Try to keep it from bending while smashing. When you get to 4”-4.5” you can stop smashing (Your forearms will be super tight and your fingers curled permanently around your hammer by now). Make a slit in the top side. I use a slot punch, usually takes 3-4 heat cycles for me to get it through. Drift the hole out just a wee bit. No need to get crazy here, we will come back and refine this later. Flip it back to the side and hammer the “ears” down a little. This will also open the drift hole more so
  2. I Built the starting bars a few years ago and found them again recently so I figured I would give this a shot. The starting bar is 3/4" thick, 2" wide and 4" long. I cut the end where the blade bit goes and welded a handle on it. Then I drew out the shank. I Jim's video he says to make the shank 1-5/8" wide, but it certainly doesn't look that wide in the video and I couldn't imagine how you could make the cheeks less than 2" tall starting that wide, so I made mine 1-1/8" wide. It was hard enough with that smaller width getting it 4-3/4" long. I put
  3. First off: Thank you! to Jake Cleland for agreeing to let me muck about with his Drow Short Sword design. (http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26418) So, with a major nod to Jake, here is my concept of a weapon produced as a collaboration between Drizzt and Bruenor. (If you don't get it...oh well) Once again; The drawing is full scale so I left out any measurements... Pommel to front of ring guard: 6" Ring guard to head (just above the twisted ear): 9.5" Edge: 4.75" The dotted lines in the head indicate my initial thoughts on forge weld overlap, those may/will shift a bi
  • Create New...