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Found 7 results

  1. So I've upgraded my forge now I have a but more confidence however I pulled this design from a blacksmith on YouTube. In principle it works. My steel goes orange nicely however, the yellow part of my fire in as lower than the rim. Yet I see multiple blacksmiths use coal forges where they have a nice pile of fire on the top. Where am I going wrong? I'm having to Bury my steel int the coals to get it hot and so cannot heat the sections I need. (the attached forge does have coal in it now before someone says that is the problem) The second image is where I've had to expo
  2. I'm a newbie getting a shop together on a budget. I have one inch tread plate steel for material. After doing some research I want to make a coal/charcoal forge that is water cooled like an English side blast forge but bottom blast on an electric blower. My question is...couldn't I make a fire pot with a connected tuyere go into a one inch plate (hearth) and under that plate, a few inches of water connected to a tank of water like a side blast forge. So basically the fire is sitting in a one inch thick inverted pyrimid, partially submerged surrounded by water on the bot
  3. Hey guys I'm back and I'm wondering how I should build my new coal forge. The one I currently have is a fire extinguisher that I cut in half and attached a shop vac to the bottom. It works but I can only heat blades two to three inches long. So I'm wondering if there's a better way.
  4. I use propane the vast majority of the time because usually I'm only doing blades, but there have been some projects which I have wanted to do, making things for around the house like a new corner shelf for the upstairs bathroom and the like for which my propane forges are too restrictive in their size to do larger pieces of ironwork. I learned with coal and used to demonstrate with coal, but after I stopped demonstrating I sold my coal forge to another who was starting out. One of the problems with the old forge and most coal forges in general is they're big, heavy, and hard to move around
  5. So a few years ago I traded a small anvil for an old coal forge. This thing's a beast, but it is solid and came with an electric blower that is variable speed and still works. Looking down into the forge area, it used to have a lot of white-yellow stuff around the fire-pot that I assumed was some sort of castable refractory. It got wet (several times) and the stuff has pretty much dissolved, so I'm not really sure what it was. The question is this: Should I replace that stuff? If so, what should I use?
  6. As a few of you know, I've been working on a book for bladesmithing newbies on finding and getting the tools needed to start out bladesmithing, and I need some example photos on coal forges. I don't currently have a coal forge nor access to one, and almost all photos on the internet either are copyrighted or would take forever to get permission to use. So do any of you have photos of your solid fuel forge that shows the main parts (bowl, hotspot, air source, etc.) in one photo? Just to be clear, these would be published publicly, and used in this book which I am selling for profit (aka to get
  7. Hello. I'm new to the forum, and relatively new to bladesmithing. At least new to creating knives with a little bit of knowledge. A friend of mine is using my forge (and what little I know) to make a Tai Chi sword from a piece of rebar. We first flattened it (meaning I held it and he did the beating--it's his sword, after all), straightened it, and he has been working it over on a belt sander to clean it up. I know rebar isn't the greatest steel for a blade, but it's got some spiritual significance for him. I understand how to harden it, but how do I temper the center of the blade with
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