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Found 8 results

  1. Hi everyone, Just starting out bladesmithing. I've searched the forum for answers to my question but haven't found any answers that take care of what I'm specifically looking for. I'm looking at getting a set up for etching my makers mark int my blades. I've seen loads of DIY build it yourself etchers, but I'd rather just buy a DC power source for it. This is the power supply I'm going to buy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHZ2X2Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08DHZ2X2Q&pd_rd_w=SmtNz&pf_rd_p=085568d9-3b13-4ac1-8ae4-24a26c00cb0c&pd_rd_wg=8Q2g2&
  2. Sorry if someone's already asked this. I couldn't find what i was looking for. Im very new at knifemaking but recently i got a premade damascus knife blade as a bday gift. The blade looked kinda dirty, and the pattern kinda dull. So, i started by polishing it with a dremel which made the upper steel really shiny. However the bottom steel looked kinda beige/light grey so i decided to etch it in coffee to darken it. After 5 hours, not much color change. The edge of the blade that was previously just shiny metal now showed a damascus pattern, so the etching did
  3. So I'm etching my blade with a rechargeable small battery that I bought it has a 12v output. My question is, can I use a more powerful battery to etch quicker and deeper? If there is something better? please let me know because also I've noticed that it's not quite smooth on the inside of the etching unlike other etches I've seen. I don't have one to show now but it looks grainy. I do use vynil sticker to keep a nice clean etch.
  4. So I'm a newbie and I was finally able to successfully crank out a small San Mai billet of 1084 core and 15N20 by hand. I was excited to see what I could do with it after looking at work by guys like Josh Fisher. I profiled the knife, put bevels on it, then threw it in ferric for the test etch which revealed a pretty neat pattern. I decided I'd like it to be fairly nice looking, being that it is my first San Mai blade, so I took it up to 3k grit with hand sanding. I then followed etching processes that I had researched, with very bad results in the ferric. The acid left the s
  5. First attempt at creating a hamon line.6" drop point 1075. Clay on spine heated to just past non magnetic cleaned scale polished up to 2000 wet sand. Etched using hot white vinegar soaked for 30 min.or so wiped clean re heated vinegar ..did this several times knife looks great from the spine to the temper line silky med grey tones & knife was very smooth to the touch ..but from temp.line to the edge it is much darker wich is good but looks like crackle paint finish and rough to the touch and very pitted ..why would this only be around temper line and not all over the entire blade
  6. A while back I posted some questions about ferric chloride, specifically the MG Chemicals brand since the Radio Shack in my area doesn't carry any. I did end up buying some from Amazon. Nobody seemed to be familiar with that brand, so I thought I would post the results of my attempt to etch a simple makers mark on a couple of blades. This stuff seemed quite inexpensive, at $12.95 for a liter on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Ferric-Chloride-Liquid/dp/B008UH3SAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418829234&sr=8-1&keywords=ferric+chloride It's even cheaper if you get a 4-l
  7. This was the first knife I ever made a few years ago. It was inspired by a few aspects of the Lord of the Rings props. I didn't take very many photos of the process as it was not much of a process. At this point no one had taught me anything about bladesmithing and so everything that went into this knife was from my own experimentation. The steel is a 1095 file, the wood is cocobolo, and the pommel and guard are made of an alloy I was working on at the time that looks gold, doesn't oxidize, and is more wear-resistant than steel so it stays shiny (it is by no means as strong as steel tho
  8. I've been experimenting with clay paste/hamon stuff, and long story short I've managed to make up my own paste that actually works (I tested hardness with a Mohs hardness tester). Anyway, I was wondering what solution I should use for etching, and where I can get it. I've got a year or so before I can drive, and not-too-willing parents-to-drive. Plus a very limited wallet. Help?
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