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Found 12 results

  1. Here is a video on forging a dagger.. It is what I like to call "Run and Gun forging".. This means the blade is simple forged from stock as you go along and not use a preform.. I wanted to forge a dagger and sadly, A dagger because of the geometry and the blade profile is not a great "run and gun" example.. I had a very hard time not making a preform because Daggers are excellent when done as a preform.. ON a "Run and gun" forging session the blade width and shape are constantly being adjusted.. This adjustment occurs and then needs to be fixed again and again.. For many this
  2. Hi all, I'm finally getting back into forging and bladesmithing after far too long. I'm curious about when other smiths forge in the various features of a blade. I typically forge the tang first, followed by tapering the point. Next I forge the profile and taper the thickness at the same time. Lastly, I forge the bevels keeping the desired profile as I do instead of precurving the blade.
  3. Forging table legs.Table legs of metal with their hands,using hand forged fixtures for flexible components.Original design wrought iron legs for table from the forge Kovanca.
  4. Hello, I am very new to knifemaking and bladesmithing and I am confused about hammering techniques and more specifically which side of the hammer to use for what. My hammer that I use is a 2lb engineer's hammer found at harbor freight that I modified into a rounding hammer on one side. I don't know if I made the "round" part well. I just ground off the edges until the face of one side of the hammer was dome-shaped. My understanding is that the rounding hammer is used to upset the metal in order to move it around quickly. This is because the force of the impact is concentr
  5. This is a 25 minute film from around 1925~1931 of Belgian French or Flemish (not sure) Damascus gun barrel makers. I thought it was interesting enough to post here. https://youtu.be/fa9dlvRDuQU
  6. So I had some iron or mild steel my brother discovered. He gave it to me and I was processing a bunch of curved and round bars the other day to be squared and straight for various stuff not for blades, but when I got to this one, something went wrong. It completely crumbled between cherry and orange hot. The whole thing just flew apart after a few hammer blows. I quenched it, put some WD40 on it, cover it in borax and attempted to weld the big crack back together. This time more of it fell off so I quit while I still had bar left. I can't seem to get the picture of the end of it. Strange
  7. Nate Bocker has been busy, and is too shy to toot his own horn... so I wanted to share this with you guys. It's an ongoing activity, and a few of us are working with him to help expand it as we can this coming year. http://www.wusa9.com/story/news/local/2014/11/11/wounded-warrior-uso-turkeys-for-troops-tra-madkins-jonathan-porges/18824125/ Video won't embed, but the page it takes you to is one of our local news stations. Feel free to spread the love.
  8. Hi Everyone! My 3 year old son, Kainen, who practically tries to take over everytime I smith or runs off with my Blade magazine because he wants to get first peek at all the goodies is going in to the hospital for the first of two surgeries this coming Thursday. Due to complications from his FPIES (Food Protein-Induced Enterolocitis Syndrome) a NG Feeding Tube is being placed in preparation to put in a G Tube 4 weeks later. He's my little forge buddy and loves to get mail, so I thought maybe you guys might want to send him some to read while he's stuck in the hospital. Who better to get
  9. Greetings, gentlemen. I recently tried to do the stainless Damascus for the first time. In my blacksmithing master's shop (not having my own yet) we followed instructions by Ariel Salaverria to the letter (http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial16.htm). On the first attempt, the container burned through after several minutes, hence the stacked steels were too cold to weld. We thought that perhaps the temperature was too high or there was too much WD40 inside. Hence, on the second attempt we put paper soaked in WD40 only on one end of the container and we poured out WD40 after
  10. Greetings, gentlemen. One important question for you, please: My bladesmithing master installed power hammer in his shop - the type embedded in the floor in a deep pit, with proper cushioning (as per instructions). However, when it's put to work, the entire house is shaking - and since it's fairly old house, the end result is that he is unable to use the power hammer at all. It was quite costly, so we're trying to figure out what else can we do to be able to use it. Recently, my master came across notion of some kind of "pneumatic absorption pillows", that could possibly solve this pr
  11. Hello all, one question regarding stainless Damascus, please. I'm going to try my hand at creating my first billet of stainless Damascus this weekend according to the method described by Ariel Salaverria (his site is unfortunately down at the moment.) I have two steels - N695 and 1.4116. From what I gather this should be very similar to what Markus Balbach uses. The important question is - what happens with the square tube used as a container for the steels? My guess is that it will weld to the steels and have to be ground off, right? Many thanks for your replies, any & all input is mu
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