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Found 16 results

  1. Hello Everyone, I'm in the process of building a HT oven and am trying to decide which way the door should swing. A lot of the builds I see, and most of the commercial offerings have side swinging doors, but a down swinging door on the other hand could be weighted for automatic closing. I do wonder how much heat the door would be able to radiate at your hand while grabbing blades. Does anyone have any thoughts or practical experience with either door type? I've attached a rough model of my design with a down swinging door for reference.
  2. I picked up an Evenflow ceramics kiln over the weekend for way cheap, all of the elements work great. It is an older model so it uses cones for temp. control. So here is my current tentative plan, since I only have $40.00 invested so far, save up to purchase a kilnsitter temperature controll unit (about $250) , cut a hole in the top which would allow blades to be suspended on wire and pulled when ready (cover with fire brick when needed). Has anyone here ever done anything like this befor? If so I would love to hear your thoughts, differing ideas etc. even if you think I should just sell the
  3. I'm making a throwing knife and was wondering at what temp it it the best to heat treat. But I need to know in color of the steel. And then how long do I put in the oven for and at what temp for. Do I have to heat the tip hotter?
  4. hi guys, quick question. I am making an EDC out of 1084 from Jantz. I forge welded a length of chainsaw chain down both sides and then forged and ground to shape. heat treat was per Allen Longmire in the "heat treat by alloy" section. doing the final grinding I decided to do the "brass rod test" and my edge is soft. any idea where I might have gone wrong? I didn't burn the edge grinding, quench was in warm vegetable oil and I did three hours at 400 deg. for temper. any thoughts as to what went wrong would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hi guys i meed advice i got some cheap stainless steel but im a beginner and besides that its stainless i dont know what composition it has. Any advice on how to heat treat would be appreciated i want atleast attempt to heat treat it. If this does not belong here please tell me where to post it.
  6. I got a box of A2 at an auction. It included a 3/4X1 1/4 inch flat bar. I used it to make a tang filing jig I have seen on the net. I used 3/8 inch W1 drill rod for the pins. Now I need to heat treat the blocks. I found a recipe that called for stress relieving, preheat, and hardening. Do you keep the part in the same foil for each cycle? After hardening do you take it out of the foil to cool in "still air"? Should I set it on a brick or metal to cool? They describe putting wood in the foil. Would wrapping the part in paper do the same thing? Is there a
  7. I'm new to the forum and blade smithing. I've read that railroad tracks and railroad clips are more or less the same as 1060. I have a good bit of both, but I can't find anything on how to heat treat 1060. I.e. How hot to get the blade, Water or oil quench and how hot to get it. What temp to temper it at. Thanks
  8. I hardened a ball-peen 'hawk and my karambit last week, quenched in peanut oil, and then baked at 400 degrees for 2 hours. When they came out, they looked like this: Is this the dark straw color we're trying to achieve? If so, it's the high point of my week!
  9. Gentlemen, I am not sure if I should post this under tools, but his is the newby section, so here I go. I am rather new to making knives and would like to eventually work my way up to swords, I would like some advice on a few different items in regards to tools, heating and materials. 1) After combing through the internet I believe I have decided upon a grinder to purchase, I have decided spend the cash first, (and once). I am look in at a BEE Grinder 2 x 72 but I am wondering what the difference/advantage/disadvantage would be between: A) The 1 hp and the 2 hp, The single
  10. I'm new here. I've been making knives for a couple years now but I've always struggled getting the heat treat right. I have a forge and have read everything on this forum and others about heat treating. Here's what's happening. I anneal the blade three times, I heat it to nonmagnetic and then quench. After I clean off the scale I see these raised areas in the steel. Almost like little bubbles. I'm very careful to not overheat the blade but I think thats what happening and I'm seeing grain growth. I'm not sure. This usually happens when I'm using 1095. Can anyone take a look at these
  11. So I started making a spear today, partly as a secondary weapon for hunting our local feral pigs, but mostly just because I felt that I needed one. I wanted to use 1045 laminated with 5160 core, like san mai, but the local Alro doesn't carry "exotic" steels, so I went with 1018 and the venerable mystery steel. In this case, it's small gauge railroad track, pulled out of state forest along the AuSable river, most likely from a logging track. I used an angle grinder to cut the top off of about 14" of track, forged one end flat, normalized thrice using my Mark II eyeball to gauge temps, and qu
  12. I got an email this morning from ASM. Apparently they put out an app for Android and Apple products for heat treat information. I downloaded it and checked out the 52100 information and it looked pretty cool. Best part is that it is FREE! Just go to the respective store for your device (Google Play or iTunes) and search for "Heat Treater's Guide Companion". As far as I can tell it is for a mobile app only, no desktop version (for free at least).
  13. I forged my first real cable damascus blade today, with mystery cable, most likely improved plow steel. It is a triple core blade, but I didn't get the defined herringbone pattern I wanted I normalized by bringing it to non-magnetic 3 times and air cooling to ambient temp, then brought to non-magnetic and did a full quench in preheated automatic transmission fluid. The problem is that the edge of the blade didn't harden to my liking. The spine and first .75 inches of the tip are hard, but the rest is fairly easy to cut with a file. Any ideas why this happened and/or how to fix it? Dimen
  14. Just wanted to share a little something that people may be interested in. This is a product that we use at work to prevent carbon pick-up during carburization/case hardening. This is applied to surfaces that are to be welded or machined after heat treat to prevent those surfaces from picking up carbon. Obviously this should work the other-way around and prevent de-carburization/scaling. It isn't overly cheap (we buy a lot of it and still pay just under $50/1gal. tub), but it is designed for this application and works well. At some point I will snag an "empty" pail from a garbage can, scr
  15. A while back I started on a pair of mountain-man style throwing knives. They were cut from some random square tubing a friend of mine had lying around. I wasn't too concerned with the quality of the steel, since they're going to get thrown and banged up any way. I got them ground down and shaped, and cold-hammered the edges (this was before I'd built my forge). When I got my forge built, I decided to use a clay temper to harden them. (Please keep in mind I was still mostly clueless about what I was doing at this point). For clay, I used white clay that is all over my place about 2 feet und
  16. I've seen different posts where people quench their blades in peanut oil, canola oil, or various other oils onions, or brine. In my shop, I have 8 gallons of used motor oil. I've used to to harden several blades and a few tools and it works, other than the black scale it leaves behind. My question is: Does the type of oil matter? Is vegetable oil versus motor oil any better or worse? Why do we warm the oil up first? If the idea is to cool the steel, wouldn't we want cooler oil? And if a man was to make his own brine, what ratio of water to salt would he need? And would iodized
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