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Found 14 results

  1. Hi guys, I was talking to a client on the phone a couple of weeks ago regarding a project I am working on for him, when I mentioned that I was going to make some jewelry for my wife for Christmas... Well, not five seconds passed before he asked if I could make something for his woman while I was at it. Well, I agreed to make his woman a little "something" - and I just now finished the photographs. Thought it might be of interest to you guys as well knowing we all like shiny things.. Unfortunately though, this one isn't much for cutting...
  2. Alright, so December 2019 I forged a fork for my wife (link HERE) and in 2020 I was suppose to get her a matching knife.. Now, time ran away from me - and I weren't able to finish it until now- but now I have! The steel is 15n20 and.. something - I don't remember... I decided to practice some more inlay, doing some 0,5mm and 1,0mm wire inlay into the "bolster" and heart. Made some use of my new Lindsay Bench Jewel Rotary Tool along with my newly acquired super small FG 1/4 dentist burs. (undercutting 0,5mm grooves i
  3. Alright, so I am preparing to do some serious inlay work on a blade I am working on. I've never done this before - so I figured I'd start with some test plates. After making myself a flat point chisel graver and a brass punch today, I cut a deep groove into some 15n20 steel I had lying around, cut into the bottom of the groove from both sides to lift up "teeth", and then proceeded to punch the 1mm copper wire into it. Went surprisingly well. Next step will be to cut grooves in the form of runes into a piece of steel, harden it, and then do inlay - as t
  4. Hi All. Recently I was really lucky to finish a replica of a sword found in Norway. http://secretsoftheice.com/news/2017/09/05/viking-sword/ There are some differences: My sword weights 1080g and the original was as heavy as 1203g (sic!). Blade lenght: 795mm. Blade width: 62mm. Material: spring steel 50HF, cross guard and upper guard: wrought iron. Handle: wood and leather. Inlay inscription is 36 layers pw wire - it is a customer's vision. Have no idea what that means ;-P I just forged it into a blade like an illitarate dark blacksmith The guy wanted it
  5. Howdy y'all. I finally got around to finishing the sheath for this knife . (It's amazing what a rapidly approaching show will do for your incentive). It still needs some wax cleanup and polishing, but the construction and dying is all done. It is fully lined with kip. I've been experimenting with sheath making and decided to try making a sheath that could be worn either hanging straight down from the belt loop or high on the hip in a cross draw fashion. Here is the back to show how the belt loop is made. And the two ways of wearing it.
  6. Hello all! It's been a long while since I've posted any work here, mostly due to my never ending battle of finding a consistent shop space. However, I have not been quite so idle in finding things to learn and applications of various pieces of other skills which I can later apply to blades once the forge is hot again. Earlier this year I had closer look at fine wire inlay, and though a bit of experimentation and adapting to what I was able to make work, settled on a fairly straight forward method of engraved inlay. That is to say, wire inlay that begins as an engraved channel. With a lack
  7. This is a follow-up to last year's "Tiger under a tree" http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26501&hl=tiger I found this photo of a kozuka with the same tiger, and decided there and then that it will be my next stock project. With kozuka conforming to quite rigid dimensions (14 x 96 mm) it was a simple matter to transfer the design to a folded steel handle. Then the trouble started. It is a very shallow carving, the amount of depth one sees in the photo is only an illusion, it took me a couple of days to get the basic form ready for the inlays, and as I worked o
  8. Stuart Smith dropped by a while back, and gave me a piece of damascus. I forged it into a kiridashi but managed to open one of the welds, probable worked to cold. As the flaw was not near the edge and in keeping with my belief that even a bad piece of iron can be made into something beautiful or useful I did some inlays to turn it into a knife suitable for a samurai's wife. Carving the recesses in the damascus steel was the worst part. Apparently the K600 in the steel has a bad habit of air hardening. Even after tempering the blade my chisels still chipped. The inlay and carving was routin
  9. I am planning a knife with a flower theme, and needed a bit of practise on doing raised inlays of complex shapes. While I was at it I decided to make a video showing the process. This clip shows one method of doing a raised inlay. In the clip the recess is cut, and then the lip that will hold the inlay in place is lifted with a wedge punch. This has the advantage of not having to cut the lip level with the background after the inlay is done, but there is very little room for error. I'll make a clip, showing the method where the lip is raised before the recess is cut, in the coming week.
  10. As we all know ,there is not enough time to become proficient in the use of every tool that can benefit us in this craft, and we tend to learn to use tools as they are needed.. One tool I am completely inexperienced with is the graver. I've always gotten away with my trusty Dremel tool, but there are some things it just can't do with the precision that hand tools can. To be specific, I'm working on a project in which I'd like to experiment with copper inlay in mild steel. It is my understanding that gravers are the best option for this task , especially for the undercutting to hold the in
  11. Hi! This is my latest thing - a birthday present for my better half . It is a more complicated version of a knife I posted here some time ago... and looking at it now, I already know what I would do differently. Since it´s supposed to be a knife for a rich woman (or a woman with a rich husband), I decided to reconstruct one copper inlaid chape... it was my third inlay so far, and I must say that I am not completely satisfied with the thickness of my lines, nor with their straightness... well, I will do better next time, hopefully. Oh yes, and the knife is with wrought iron body (forgewelded
  12. Hello Gentlemen! i am here afain to share completed work- this time a generous commission. its a sax wit 10 inches long blade made of of wrought iron and hearth steel. there are 3 grooves and three inlayed rondels in fine silver. Handle is reindeer antler chip carved in deep relief. fittings are silver and are reinforces with chased ridge. Pomel is cast silver with engraved sides and garnet set in the bezel. scabbard is leather over wood core. Inside is lined with felt. Leather is carved, incised and tooled. Fittings for the scabbard are moose antler and silver I would love to read your
  13. My friend is in need of a new reenactment belt, and so I decided to learn a new technique - inlay. Many Great-Moravian buckles and strap ends were decorated using this technique, but so few reenactors today seem to care about that. These two pieces - the buckle and the strap end - are my first attempts. I had to do the strap end twice, since I wasn´t very happy with how the first one turned out... I also did the leather belt.
  14. I finished this little knife today, an order from a 76 year old lady who grew up on a farm where arum lilies flourished. Blade: 1070 Handle: Patinated mild steel with sterling silver raised inlay and sterling silver pinning. Questions and comments welcome.
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