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Showing results for tags 'karambit'.
Found 5 results
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I recently got over a broken leg, so I was finally able to get back to my forge after 4 months. I went in with the idea of making an ulu, but got sidetracked and decided to try a karambit instead. I started with a broken farrier's rasp. Don't know the exact content of the steel. The first thing I did was drift a hole for the finger ring. I'd never done this before, so it was a neat experiment. It turned out pretty well, but I learned I need a bigger drift. After that, I bent it around for the hook of the blade, and then did some shaping with the grinder. Looking back, I cou
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I started this last year, and finally got around to finishing it. It was nice to finally make a knife for myself. This knife began when a friend of mine got a karambit, and asked if I could make him a wooden one to train with. Let me say now, plywood is NOT my normal choice for any kind of bokken. I prefer hardwood like walnut, oak, or rock maple, but with the ring in the end, I couldn't see a way to get around the grain crossing the ring and risking it breaking at some point, and I don't make weak tools. So, plywood with maple scales. But when I was done, it turned out so comfo
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Here's my latest, a karambit. Normally, I wouldn't make these because I just don't care for this blade style, but a good client of mine asked so I made one. Most of the shape you see was forged out from a piece of leaf spring. Another first for me was bluing the blade as I have never actually blued any of my blades. The handle scales are walnut with 1/4" diameter brass pins.
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A fellow student in my dojo asked if I would make him a wooden karambit to train with. He traced his knife out, and I made a training version based on that: It's hard to make plywood look decent, and the maple scales didn't take the stain like I'd hoped, but after playing with it, I really liked the way it felt. I used plywood primarily because at some point the ring in the end would be parallel to the grain and would snap off. And please keep in mind, the actual knife is pointier, but I rounded the edges off because it is a training too. Just based on this, I'd like a little more hoo
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Hi All, Something a little different from the Mongrel Knives shop today. How about a Karambit or if you prefer a Hawkbill fixed blade. The specifics: Steel : .156 thick, 154-CM to a Rockwell 61 Pins: 3/16 416 stainless Scales: Black Canvas Mikarta. Overall length: 9.75 inches Blade length: in front of the scales 4 7/8 inches, convex grind Cutting edge: 4 inches Handle thickness: 5/8 inch Weight: 7 oz. Finish: Mirror on the edge, spine and around the scales, black oxide on the flats. Finish on the canvas Mikarta is through 1200 grit. (looks like carbon fiber) Kydex sheath can be worn
