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Hello all, There is a question that has been nagging me for some time now. I have made a few European swords over the last few years, and I usually attach the cross guard with a small TIG bead on the underside, that is then covered by the wood scales/grip. obviously this is not historical. and not the best way to do it i know. some other ways i have found by researching this online say to slide the guard onto tang hot with the slot in the guard slightly undersized. This allows the slot to expand and fit; then cool and contract. OK, this sounds good but wont the heat seep into the h
I'm finally starting on my first completely custom Longsword that hasn't been made from scrap and spare parts from the shop. Haven't quite gotten around to posting many of my past works yet, so I'll start with my current build! Starting off, the design of this sword is pretty sizable.I am also loosely basing it off of an Oakeshott type XX. At 46"(116.64cm) in overall length, it'll have quite the reach. The blade will be 36" (91.44cm) from tip to shoulders. It will be made from stock removal of a pre-tempered 5160 blank, cut to profile.The guard and pommel are pretty hefty. Made from a mild
So, I got in the forge today and felt a little bit froggy. So I picked up a rather large piece of 1075 that I had lying around and decided that I saw a langsaex hidden inside. Only one picture so far, and a concept sketch will come a little bit later because I haven't quite decided what to do with the hilt. I just picked up the steel and said "what the hell, let's make a sword." As is fairly typical with my projects, the planning will come after the project has begun. I'll be doing some research tonight, and may have some concept sketches by tomorrow. The reason I'm calling it a bastard saex i