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Found 18 results

  1. Hey everyone, I'm just starting out smithing. While I am not yet a bladesmith, I am about to attempt a knife for chopping charcoal. Crazy, huh? I've made my own small charcoal forge and just finished my first set of tongs. Right now I am buying lump charcoal (cowboy brand) and using a hatchet to size it. I have two newbie questions: Are there many bladesmiths here who predominantly use charcoal to forge? Is there a traditional (any tradition) pattern for a knife that is used to chop charcoal? Taylor, near Jeddo TX
  2. Hi everyone! After having a fascination with knives, swords and blades for some years, I discovered Alec Steele on YouTube who took my fascination from a low burn, to a roaring flame! The stuff he made has me hooked, but I heard the odd mention of a show called 'Forged in Fire'. Seeing some of the amatuer smiths that went on there and how basic and simple their setups were, convinced me that it's not 'too' difficult to get started. This lead to me finally getting my rear in gear and start getting the bits I need to start. After a year of a slow start, I finally have a w
  3. Here's #3 (I'm going to quit counting at 5 ) Hand forged from a 7/8" W1 drill rod. Weights 4.2oz with a 6" blade. Handle is bloodwood and walnut with stainless and white vulcanized fiber spacers. Bolster is aluminum reclaimed from a car suspension tab. I learned a lot again on this one!
  4. The time has come to design #3. I will raise the bar quite a bit on this one. As usual, brutal honesty is welcomed as well as any advice. Thanks for looking! Also, will W1 show a real hamon with canola oil?
  5. Beginner's Place seemed appropriate for this. So I'm in the process of planning out my next forge. I'm not completely new at this game, I'm already made a small charcoal forge (which ended up failing) and a venturi gas forge (which works). All my tool and equipment before were mostly cheap tools or improvised, so now I'm slowly working at buying/making proper bladesmithing gear. The next on the chopping block is my forge. Now my other isn't bad, it's actually a pretty nice little forge, was even able to do some forge welding with it. The problem is that it isn't the most well-put together
  6. I finally received my Picard 1kg Swedish pattern yesterday. I dressed it this morning. All by hand, it took a lot of elbow grease! Those hammers are very well made for the money.
  7. Good evening gents! It so happens that I finished my second knife. It's my first forged blade and hidden tang. It's also an Xmas gift for my father. I've had a lot of fun doing this one! Here's the specs: 7.5" overal, 3.5" blade, 7/8" wide at ricasso. 0.120" thick at ricasso tapered to almost zero. It's 80CrV2, reclaimed brass, G10 and bloodwood.
  8. Good evening gentlemen! Turns out this year I picked my father for our xmas gift exchange. He hunted and fished all his life and never actually had a quality knife so it would be more than a suitable gift. I thought a bird and trout knife would fit his needs as he mostly hunts grouse. So here's what I came out with. Please feel free to tell if there's anything wrong or not so good in the design.
  9. Hey guys, so I've been forging for several years now and just got set up for forge-welding, I read these forums everyday so I have seen a few posts about what type of steels to use, the problem is I'm not gonna drop a ton of money on steels, I'm mostly a scrap hunter. I want to do a damascus blade, I know normally you go with known metals that will offer a high contrast, I have some leaf spring, some mild steel, a massive industrial saw mill blade, several bandsaw blades and files and some stainless. My hope is that some combo of these metals will create a decently vivid contrast will forge we
  10. I have one for you guys: How much distal taper do you think I need for proper geometry on this blade? It's 3/16 thick at the ricasso and the blade is 4" long. Draw filing is exhausting and I wouldn't want to have a weird geometry at the end :/ As you can see I tapered the spine. This is fun Thank you!
  11. This is not a question but I thought this might be the right place to show how I setup my forge. You are free to comment! So there you go: - I used James Spurgeon's design for the ventury burner. It was quite easy as every component self aligned the burner tip right in the middle of the pipe. It has been harder however to find black iron pipes and fittings here in Canada. Got them from Acklands. Do not use galvanized steel. It will reek toxic fumes. - The horizontal propane tank pattern seamt to be the most versatile so I went for it. DO PURGE THE TANK PROPERLY BY REMOVING THE VALVE
  12. Hello everyone, This here is my first ever attempt at making a blade. It's forged out of 1095, 17 1/2" in length overall, with a 12" blade. What do you think of the overall blade geometry? My thought is the tip is too pointy, and I need to grind the break down to a steeper angle. Also, is the tang too wide? I think I'm probably going to burn on a simple wooden handle.
  13. Hi everyone, I'm new here and this is my first post. I first got a taste of smithing on my grandfather's farm more than 30 years ago. I recently took some classes at Pratt Fine Art institue here in Seattle, and have been seriously bitten by the bug. I've started setting up a forge in my garage, and look forward to a big project this summer which will be building a press. I got the Batson book and will be making one similar to the "C" press described in the book. Most recently I took a damascus steel class and forged a couple of billets. I've started grinding out a blade from the first
  14. Hello everyone, Today I am trying to find a good option for a saltwater diver's/fisher's blade. My friend is quite the avid sea-farer and has complained that his blades often rust out rather quickly. His birthday is coming up in a couple months and I'd love to surprise him with a blade that might hold up a bit better... Not to mention something he can show off to his diving group to possibly bring in some market. Any help or tips is much appreciated! Thank you!
  15. Hey all, utter new guy here. Been dreaming of getting into blacksmithing all my life, but never saw an opertounity till now in my late 30's. Got a huge unexpected cash gift for christmas, and the day before I have been drooling over an anvil on craigslist. So now I am they very proud owner of a 360 pound Peter Wright anvil. She's a BEAST, but shes in pretty good shape with only minor damage $2.77 a pound, so not killer cheap, but within reasonable range from what I have seen. I probably still should have gone for a smaller anvil and had money left over to buy other tools, but it is what it
  16. Hi all, This is my first Post here but I have been reading page after page here for weeks. I know that their is a ton of posting on much of this, which is why I am mostly looking for some Opinions on what YOU think would be best. Also if anyone lives near me (Ellicott City Maryland) that is okay with offering help and advise when I run into a situation where I need it, let me know. Okay so here goes First up........ Anvil. I can get my hands on some 1045 round stock 4" Dia by 7" or 5" dia x 8.6". 4" is around $50 and the 5" $80. no luck yet with finding a local supplier with a decent s
  17. so i had a few rr spikes and have been using these to hone my blade making skills, and i attempted a pineapple twist. Luckily this wasnt really difficult at all but i also did an edge quench got the blade past magnetic held for a sec the dipped the edge held then full dip. The question i have is whats up with these temper/color splotches i have.
  18. I've been experimenting with clay paste/hamon stuff, and long story short I've managed to make up my own paste that actually works (I tested hardness with a Mohs hardness tester). Anyway, I was wondering what solution I should use for etching, and where I can get it. I've got a year or so before I can drive, and not-too-willing parents-to-drive. Plus a very limited wallet. Help?
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