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I present to you - the latest Deer-Hunter - Yggdrasil laufsblað - Leaf of Yggdrasil! Blade in 3 bars folded and twisted steel. 100 layers of folded railroad steel for the body, and 60 layers of ferrier's rasps and 15n20. Handle in Chestnut with core of Holly, w. spacers in vulcanized fiber. Front part of handle is Mammoth Ivory, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse. The poem is taken from Grímnismál verse. 33 - Codex Regius and pertains to four deer that eat from the leaves of Yggdrasil - the world tree. This knife will be used - shock - for hunting deer. As always, any feedback and criticism is heartily welcome! Sincerly, Alveprins.

Alright, so from the same billet as my last knife - here is another one. Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with spacers in brass and vulcanized fiber - with copper for the front. All feedback and critisism is, as always - most welcome. Chiao!

Hi guys... Been a while since my last post, so I thought I'd seize the oportunity now that I've finally gotten something new in the works. Finished the knife today, and will start working on the sheath tomorrow. I call it "The Moose Hunter". Made to order for a.. you guessed it - Moose Hunter. ;) Blade in railroad steel and tool steel / ferrier rasps for the edge. Handle in Maple burl, Holly, Mammoth ivory, Moose antler, brass and vulcanized fiber. Any and all criticism is.. as always - very much welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.

Hi All! Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath. Overall len.: 515mm/20,27" Blade len.: 323mm/12,71" Handle len.: 184mm/7,24" Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38" Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22" Weight: 483g/17oz Let's save the words, pictures show some stages of work

Alright folks! Finished this little thing before the vacation, but never got around to taking photos of it... So here they are! So, first of all - the stats: Blade length: 16 cm Blade width: 3,4 cm Blade thickness: 3mm Handle length: 11,8 cm Total weight: 110 grams Blade is made in a san-mai lamination with railroad steel for the body and spring steel for the edge. Handle is made in a laminate of stabilized Maple, Teak, buffalo horn, brass and vulcanized fiber. Alright, that's it! Chiao people, and have a nice week. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Mixed species ladder patterned steel.

Hello. I'm pleased to offer for sale a beautiful and fully useful pattern welded seax. The materials are: edge and spine: 80CrV2 tool steel, core: approx 15 layers twist (80CrV2 x mild steel) Handle: Bog oak, curved deer antler, Hungarian plum wood + leather sacers and silver pin. Dimentions: Ov. len. 290mm (11,8") Blade leng. 140mm (5,7") Thick 3,6mm (0,14") Wide at handle 23mm (0,94") At widest point 27mm (1,1") 135$ shipped Contact via PM or: krylip (at) gmail.com

Here is a custom Chef's Knife I just finished up for a customer. The 22,5cm blade is forged in an exotic jet-turbine alloy mixed with high carbon steel, folded to 44 layers, twisted and laminated in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. The handle is in stabilized Zebra wood, Jamaican blue mahoe, buffalo horn and vulcanized fiber. weight: 214 grams Blade length: 22,5 cm Blade width: 3,5 cm Blade thickness: 4 mm Blade hardness: 63 HRC Handle length: 12,5 cm Handle thickness: 1,7cm Any and all critique is as always most welcome. sincerely, Alveprins.

Alright - so this whole thing started in the Metallurgy section of the forum where I test some highly exotic steel from a Jet Turbine Engine shaft... That thread can be found HERE. As for the continuation of this little project - keep an eye on this thread right here. Alright, so I've tested some steel - and it seemingly has some incredible properties. It hardens to above 60 HRC when quenched in oil - but it stays maleable and not brittle - even at that hardness level. I had to use serious repeated force to break one in half. Here are some closeup images of the turbine shaft steel itself: Now - I was lucky with welding the first billet shown below: However - when attempting to double that - things did not go as well: Half the billet had a really bad weld going down the middle - it simply would not take. So - I've split them in half to be used later. Even when twisting the "good" billet - a piece came off. You can see it to the very left in the image. Some of it WAS usable though - so I proceeded with the build: Alright - so I put some high carbon steel in the middle as a san-mai lamination between what is now about 70 layers of folded turbine shaft steel, some steel from a couple of fixture pieces for holding turbine exhaust cases in place while machining as well as som 15/20 steel. The san-mai steel is Øberg-steel which hardens to a maximum of 63 HRC. Stay tuned for more progress updates.

I managed to destroy a piece of steel while twisting (bad weld) and got pissed to such an extent I decided to put that project on a temporary hold and make a chef's knife out of the scraps. Here is the result. The pattern welded steel is 15 layers of twisted railroad and railroad-plates steel, and the edge steel is Øberg-steel. Hardness at edge: 58HRC Handle materials are: What kind of wood is that burl..? Anyone? + Holly, vulcanized fiber, silver tinn, and buffalo horn. NOTE: If you look towards the edge - notice a crack in the edge steel. It does not continue into the pattern welded steel though - so it will not impact the performance of the knife I think - but still... Not sure if I can sell this one. Perhaps at 50% discount? ... I already have 3x cracked cooking knives in my kitchen.. I really don't need to add another one. Note to self: Don't quench oil-hardening steels in water - even if it is an interrupted quench with water - oil - water - oil... Any critique is most welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Here's a little thing I restored actually - recently. The blade was made quite a few years ago - but had been collecting dust'n rust. So - I shined it up and made a brand new handle and sheath for it. The runes on the blade reads "Smar Haukr" - old Norse for Little Hawk. Steel: Don't remember. Hardness at edge: 58 HRC (differential hardened) Handle: Russian Bog Oak (2800 years old) + maple, green vulcanized fiber and 925 silver. This will be my daily beater in the mountains and forests whenever I travel. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Finally finished the leather sheath for this knife I made a while back. Original post HERE. A bit late - but finally managed to put it up for sale. I must say though - working with leather is definitively not my favorite... Sincerely, Alveprins.

Recently I finished a comission knife. Pattern welded balde: one twist approx. 15 layers. Spine of reinforcing steel, cutting edge of 80CrV2 Handle: Brass, elk antler, elm wood + leather spacers and silver pins. The object both for usage and nice looking

Thought I'd share this for the heck of it... I promised to make a little blade for my sisters master farrier - so I used a piece of my old botched-up Bowie and made actually two blades out of it. I made them san-mai lamination just to add some more steel into the mix - if not I would have less material. The blade consists of two bars.. or I suppose 4 - since its a san-mai blade now - 15 layer 15 and 15n20 steel, twisted, and laminated with a socalled Øberg-steel in the middle. Øberg is a swedish steel manufacturer I believe... I haven't really read into it.. Its the highest carbon one I go though.. haha HRC is around 58 - so very happy with how it turned out.

Skogr Brandr - The Forestblade Blade length: 23 cm Blade width: 3,2cm Handle Length: 12,5cm Total weight: 305 grams The steel is 120 layers of twisted UHB20C, UHB15LM, 15N20, old rasps and Øberg-steel. Differential hardened. Hamon disappears towards the middle of the blade though. I suspect the clay came off quickly during quench. Handle is colored and stabilized buckeye burl fastened with a mosaic pin. Sheath is stained and waxed leather. Stitched using saddle-maker technique. Enjoy. hope you guys liked it. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Update: SOLD Recently finished up this little Seax. The blade is made from a W1 edge, a 1095 and 15n20 twisted bar for the center, and 150 year old wrougt iron window par for the spine. The wrought iron is fairly corse and shows a distinct pattern. The blade is approximately 4", the handle 4.125" A sheath is not included, but I can make one upon request. Price is SOLD plus shipping. If you're interested, send me a PM or go to the etsy page here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/498881227/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking!

Ok - so I sold my Saami inspired knife "Hausakljufr" - the Skull Cleaver - and an unfortunate potential buyer was so frustrated about not getting to bid on it - he decided to order a custom job. I suggested to make a Long Seax instead of a copy of Hausakljufr, since that type of knife is something I've been wanting to make for a long time. Excited as he was about vikings - he agreed. I've had full control over the design. And this one I am particularly proud of. I present to you all: Hraustligr - The Dauntless! I've scrapped my previous project found HERE - and re-purposed the steel for this knife. The steel for the body of the blade is made out of rasps, railroad, railroad plate steel, and UHB15LM steel. The steel for the edge of the blade is made out of rasps, UHB20C and UHB15LM. Body steel bars are folded to 48 layers and twisted 30 times clock and counter-clock wise. Edge steel bar is folded to 176 layers, and twisted 40 times counter-clock wise. The handle will be made in blackened folded and twisted steel, elk horn, compressed and stabilized birch bark, leather and possibly some copper. Here are some various pics from through out the process: Oh, and I've got a new favorite acid! Ferric Chloride! Omg, that stuff is caustic as hell! I love it!

Update: SOLD This is a piece built around undulation, from the waves of the twin serpents in the blade steel and sheath, to the bursting stars of the twists and the wavy grain of the maple in the handle. The blade is made with a W1 edge, 1095/15n20 pattern welding, and mild steel in parts of the serpent. The handle is made from curly maple stained to bring out the figure and the sheath is leather with hand textured brass fittings. The front side of the sheath has a serpent tooled onto it to match the steel of the blade. I should mention that on the rear side of the sheath, there is a small irregularity in the riveting but it is not a structural problem. Blade length: 8.75" (222 mm) Handle length: 6.5" (165 mm) The price for the knife and sheath is SOLD plus shipping If you are interested, you can send me a private message or go to the knife's etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/464942116/pattern-welded-serpent-broken-back-seax Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton

Let me introduce hvassþorn - the Sharp Thorn. This will be a 13cm long 3cm broad blade, and 13cm long handled thorn-themed kitchen-knife in a slim protective sheath made from antique brown stained leather. The steel with be UHB20C UHB15LM and 15N20 mixed with tool steel (old rasps) folded to about 200 layers then twisted tightly. The handle will be 2800 year old Russian bog-oak fastened with mosaic pins. I expect to get physically started on this between Winter Solstice and New-Year.

Forged with 150 year old wrought iron, this seax is the result of a successful experiment in fixing flaws in old material. A crack in the wrought was filed out and filled with a small piece with matching grain direction to make an almost imperceptible fix and adding to the knife's story and character. The blade is made from a three bar of composite of W1 tool steel, twisted 14 layer 1095/15n20 and a spine from antique wrought iron window bars. The handle is made from a piece of scrap walnut and matches the blade at 5" (~12 cm) long with a very subtle hourglass shape. A sheath is not included, but I can make one custom upon request. The price for this knife is SOLD(US). If you're interested, send me a PM here or check out the knife's Etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/473932948/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton

I've been putzing around at bladesmithing now as a hobby for 8 years and I figured it was time to get off my butt and make my first sword. As many people know, I have a fairly large collection of original viking era artifacts, and I love that period and the styles. I figured that for making my first sword it's not that much more work to make it pattern welded than it is to make it monosteel. One sword that I've always loved was the Type K sword in the Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo (C11014) as depicted in Ian Pierce's book. I really like the shape of that blade, long parallel sides with the well defined fuller in the center, and the classic well defined 5 lobbed pommel. My goal for this blade is to be similar dimensions, with a blade around 30 inches long and about 2.125 to 2.25 inches wide, but I want my first viking sword to be pattern welded. Since the original is type K from the 9th century a pattern welded blade is appropriate still. I started this a little over a month ago, but my shop time has sucked, as I've been getting my little British sports cars ready for show season which starts tomorrow. I welded up the initial cores on my forging press and then moved to my hammer to start drawing it out. Stupidly I forgot to write down how many layers my core billet it, but I think it was 9. It's 1084 and 15N20, although the 15N20 is thinner than I wanted, and I think I'd have preferred if the two metals were closer in thickness when I started. The two core bars are interrupt twisted in opposing directions. The two outer layers are just straight 1084. After coming off the forging press and going to the hammer, I immediately found that my weld in the center hadn't held at the end, and while I was re-heating it to re-weld, I thought that I'd clamp my phone in my vice and do a little video. So here's a youtube video I took about a month ago, re-welding the tip of the billet. This is my first project really using the power hammer, and I'm still getting used to the control and speed. Watching my own video, I'm painfully awkward with the treadle, as I hadn't got it adjusted where I like it yet =) I've got a lot better with the hammer now! =P This afternoon I picked up where I left off and continued drawing out the billet. I first took it to 18 inches long by 1.25 wide and about 5/8 thick. At this point my propane tank froze up, so I took a break and let it cool down. With the billet cooled down, and while I still had a lot of thickness, I took a saw and cut a V in the tip so that I could close up the tip and make the edge billet meet up and wrap around. After sawing it open I took a file and tried to smooth everything out as best I could so that when I closed up the mouth it would be as tight a fit as possible. Even prior to welding it shut, it was hard to see the line of the two halves after I closed up the tip The tip welded up nicely and I went back to the power hammer and kept drawing out the billet. My tank froze up again, and is almost out of gas, so I need to get both my tanks refilled before I continue. The billet is now 26 inches long by 2 inches wide and 3/8 thick. Right now I'm hoping that I have enough material to get it as long as I want, at this point I need to just stretch it out length wise, because forging in the fuller in the center, and then the bevels should give me the width that I'm looking for. Here's a closeup of the tip which seems nice and solid after welding it up, and didn't once try to split apart on me.

Hello, recently I forged and finished two knives. Both pattern wleded with wrough iron. The cutting edges are made of 80CrV2 tool steel. The bigger one's handle is made of: brass, leather, deer antler, leather, black oak. The smaller one's handle is made of: brass, leather, black locust burl, leather, elm wood. I hope you like them They both are looking for new owner http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33579

Hello, A long time ago I made a pattern welded piece of steel, and recently I started to make a blade out of it. I decided to make the broken back seax. The steel on the edge is an old file, in the middle there is a twist, the back is made from a piece of tool steel. The blade was differentially hardened by edge quenching in warm oil. I didn't expect the hamon to show up, but it is visible. Not as crisp as on clay and water quenched blades, but still quite interesting IMHO. There is also a pattern on the edge made of old file that looks a bit like the old iron . The structure showed up after etching in ferric chloride. The grind is slightly convex. Really the only thing I am not happy enough is blade thickness. I left not enough material during forging, and the thickness on the spine is circa 2,5 mm. Not much for the seax. 5 mm would be much better. Now there is time for making the handle. I plan to use moose antler and bog oak. Much work is still ahead

Hello all I just finished up this little puukko. This pattern welded puukko has a stacked birch bark handle. The blade is 1084, 1095, and 15N20 at about 500 layers and 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. Total length is 7 1/2 inches Unfortunately when I took the picture I didn't notice the smudge of grease but it has since been cleaned off. The fittings are brass and the sheath is basic black leather wrapped around a cedar core. This knife is razor sharp and ready for immediate use and shipping. I'm asking $300 for this knife + free shipping in the USA. PM if interested.

I finally got around to finishing the scabbard for this sword (pics here if you are unfamiliar with this work: http://bigrockforge.com/tiodhlac-gift-of-the-ghillie-dhu/ These are the final pictures before sending it off. The scabbard is Lake Superior diver-salvaged 'Flame Birch'. Three piece construction.. two morticed pieces and then a birch spacer in between. It is goatskin lined with fox fur at the throat. There is a copper chape and the throat is copper, birch bark with goat skin extending out to provide a nice soft landing for the cross guard. The fit is firm and secure. The wood is glued together but backed up with two twisted wire 'clamps' that would support it well in case of a glue failure. Not to mention the chape and throat pieces. The flame birch was hollow ground like the blade and finished with danish oil. The suspension is a simple braided tie of no particular time period. Just a simple system that I liked. The poem that accompanies the sword (Gift of the Ghillie Dhu) is laminated onto birch bark and shellaqued with copper nails and leather thong. Sad they always have to go.