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  1. Update: SOLD This is a piece built around undulation, from the waves of the twin serpents in the blade steel and sheath, to the bursting stars of the twists and the wavy grain of the maple in the handle. The blade is made with a W1 edge, 1095/15n20 pattern welding, and mild steel in parts of the serpent. The handle is made from curly maple stained to bring out the figure and the sheath is leather with hand textured brass fittings. The front side of the sheath has a serpent tooled onto it to match the steel of the blade. I should mention that on the rear side of the sheath, there is a small irregularity in the riveting but it is not a structural problem. Blade length: 8.75" (222 mm) Handle length: 6.5" (165 mm) The price for the knife and sheath is SOLD plus shipping If you are interested, you can send me a private message or go to the knife's etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/464942116/pattern-welded-serpent-broken-back-seax Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton
  2. Alright, so the Old Wedge is finally completed, and the pictures are all done! History: I wanted to commemorate the importance of hand tools through out history, and especially those which were made with the expressed purpose of breaking harder materials than themselves. In this case I chose to utilize a approx. 300 year old mountain wedge which has most likely been used for everything from splitting granite to securing personnel and equipment in the now closed Silver Mines of Kongsberg city, Norway. I imagine this old wedge lying in the overwhelming depth and darkness of the hollow mountain for hundreds of years, rusting away - awaiting another hand to once more pick it up and put it to use. As such - I have written a poem in Old Norse in honor of this underappreciated tool: Old Norse: langr ek svefn, draumr minn myrkr, biða hondin, gefa mik styrkr. Modern English: long I slept, my dreams dark, awaiting the hand, to give me strength. From the private collection of a generous local - this wedge found it's way into my possession, and by my hands I have given it new life and new purpose. Through fire and oil I have hammered it, tempered it - and crowned it with the purest gold of earth, and most beautiful meteorite iron from between the stars. Unappreciated for several lifetimes of mortal men - finally it is reborn, new and noble! I present to you Fornkili, the Mountain Cleaver! Fornkili stats: Blade length: 13,2 cm Blade width: 2,7 cm Blade thickness: 4mm Hardness at edge: 58HRC Handle length: 12 cm Weight w/o sheath: 225 grams Blade: The blade is forged in a san-mai lamination consisting of a jacket of approx. 300 year old bog-iron; re-purposed from an old chisel found deep inside the now closed Kongsberg Silver Mines. The core consists of 75 layers folded and twisted pattern welded steel - made up from an old sawmill blade from Numedal and modern 15n20 nickel steel. The blade is heavily engraved and inlaid with 24 karat gold in the form of borders around the ricasso, as well as the knife's name "Fornkili" - the "Old Wedge" in Elder Futhark runes. Handle: The handle is composed in a laminate consisting of ergonomically shaped stabilized Poplar wood, set in a frame of deep relief engraved and 24 karat gold inlaid sawblade steel w. vulcanized fiber spacers. The bolster is in 4,5 billion years old meteorite iron - older than our own solar system - inlaid with the knife's surname "Bjargkljufar"; Mountain Cleaver - also in 24 karat gold. Two vulcanized fiber and one copper spacer separates the meteorite iron bolster from the rest of the handle. Sheath: The sheath is sewn in 4 layers of 2mm thick leather, w. a 1,5mm thick hand-cut and engraved brass frame. The frame has a matte front finish with mirror polished bevels on all sides - tightly stitched with Tiger Thread - utilizing saddle maker's stitches. The leather has been hand stamped - and set with a metal plaque carrying my initials "KH" in Elder Futhark runes. This plaque is made from the same bog-iron as the jacket of the san-mai lamination blade - and equally engraved and inlaid with 24 karat gold. A leather strap holds the knife firmly in place in it's sheath. And then there's the pics: And that's it! Now It's off to see if this "Old Wedge" can fetch a pretty penny on the Norwegian market... Chiao! Sincerely, Alveprins.
  3. Just finished the gold inlay on this new blade - belonging to the future knife "Fornkili" - old norse for "Old Wedge". It is forged in a san-mai lamination out of an antique mountain wedge used in the Kongsberg Silver Mines - with a core of folded and twisted sawblade steel and 15n20. Proceeding with work on the handle. Very excited... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  4. Hi everyone - thought I'd share the latest one... I give you Sǫg Tǫnn (Saw Tooth) - forged in honor of the innumerable abandoned wood mills scattered around the country, left to rot as their purpose has been served long ago. How many a farm has been made possible due to the many-toothed high carbon blades - spinning tirelessly day and night, through summer and winter? How many noble trees has met their end at the sawblade's edge in order to fulfill an even higher purpose of keeping man and livestock dry and warm? Hail to you, old saw-mills covered in moss, with leaking tiled roofs and rotting support beams. Your legs may finally give in underneath you, but I shall pick you up and breathe new life into you! I cannot like Odin, Vili and Vé give you spirit, movement, mind or intelligence - but I can give you shape and purpose! Stats: Blade length: 10,3 cm Blade width: 2,5 cm Blade thickness: 4,5 mm Handle length:10,7 cm Hardness at edge: 58 HRC Weight w/o sheath:167 grams The blade is forged in a san-mai lamination consisting of pattern welded forge folded and twisted sawblade-steel and 15n20 for the core, clad in a jacket of 15n20 for that extra shiny exterior. The ricasso of the blade is engraved in a deep relief, with 24ct gold borders and elder futhark runes in 18ct red gold. The handle is in stabilized Linden with vulcanized fiber and brass spacers - as well as a frame of brightly polished sawblade steel. The bolster is in stabilized white, brown and black mammoth tusk. The sheath is in antique dark brown stained vegetable tanned leather, also with a frame of brightly polished sawblade steel with deep relief engraving and 24ct gold inlay. Everything stitched together using black Tiger Thread. I wanted to do massive engraving and gold inlay on the steel frame and bolster of the handle - but somehow it air-hardened / age-hardened - and it became impossible to cut into it. I instead went for a mirror polish.. Alright, that's about it. I am really bummed out about not being able to engrave the steel frame... Currently I am looking for a type of steel that will not air-harden / age-harden / work-harden to any particular degree. I would love to get some suggestions of anyone have any! Any constructive criticism is as always more than welcome... We must all strive to better ourselves! Alright, now I just need to make a certificate for this bad-boy, and we'll see how the Norwegian market takes to this one... Until next time - thanks for having a look, and Chiao! Sincerely, Alveprins.
  5. Alright, so December 2019 I forged a fork for my wife (link HERE) and in 2020 I was suppose to get her a matching knife.. Now, time ran away from me - and I weren't able to finish it until now- but now I have! The steel is 15n20 and.. something - I don't remember... I decided to practice some more inlay, doing some 0,5mm and 1,0mm wire inlay into the "bolster" and heart. Made some use of my new Lindsay Bench Jewel Rotary Tool along with my newly acquired super small FG 1/4 dentist burs. (undercutting 0,5mm grooves is a b*tch... I mean - challenge! ) (even had to grind of the 0,5mm head, and sharpen a 0,2mm point for the undercuts... ) Alright - so on that note - Peace out, and I'm off to sharpen this little toothpick, and we'll see how it cuts the potatoes and baked vegetables. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  6. Alright, so I got tired of working with leather, and got tired of forging my new blade... so.. arrow-head! Figured I might need to forge some of these in the future if the apocalypse proves to be imminent... Just for fun. Chiao!
  7. Alright, so I've finally finished the latest knife... I've named it Járn Haukr - Iron Hawk - with it's handle shaped like that of the body of a bird - with a nice fat chest for good grip. The blade is in bog iron from old tools made by the workers in the Silver Mines of Kongsberg city in Norway. This makes out the body. The edge steel itself is folded and twisted saw-blade steel from an old wood mill and 15n20 for contrast. The edge steel hardened nicely, and ended up at 58 HRC. The handle is in a solid piece of stabilized maple, with brass and vulcanized fiber spacers with a nice piece of mirror polished copper for the bolster. This knife was made extra large and thick in order to accomodate the oversized hands of it's owners, so I took inspiration from some of the more American Bowie style sheaths I've seen on this forum - and made a massive sheath as well. The sheath is 5 layers of leather, died in a deep dark red with brown borders. The iron has some cracks in it - but this is the best I was able to do with the material at hand. If I had more - I suppose I could have kept refining 3-4 kg. down to something a bit more useful. I feel however - that from a historical perspective - it is quite fitting like this. It will be handed over to it's new owner this afternoon. As always, any critique and comments are more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  8. I present to you - the latest Deer-Hunter - Yggdrasil laufsblað - Leaf of Yggdrasil! Blade in 3 bars folded and twisted steel. 100 layers of folded railroad steel for the body, and 60 layers of ferrier's rasps and 15n20. Handle in Chestnut with core of Holly, w. spacers in vulcanized fiber. Front part of handle is Mammoth Ivory, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse. The poem is taken from Grímnismál verse. 33 - Codex Regius and pertains to four deer that eat from the leaves of Yggdrasil - the world tree. This knife will be used - shock - for hunting deer. As always, any feedback and criticism is heartily welcome! Sincerly, Alveprins.
  9. Alright, so from the same billet as my last knife - here is another one. Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with spacers in brass and vulcanized fiber - with copper for the front. All feedback and critisism is, as always - most welcome. Chiao!
  10. Hi guys... Been a while since my last post, so I thought I'd seize the oportunity now that I've finally gotten something new in the works. Finished the knife today, and will start working on the sheath tomorrow. I call it "The Moose Hunter". Made to order for a.. you guessed it - Moose Hunter. ;) Blade in railroad steel and tool steel / ferrier rasps for the edge. Handle in Maple burl, Holly, Mammoth ivory, Moose antler, brass and vulcanized fiber. Any and all criticism is.. as always - very much welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  11. Hi All! Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath. Overall len.: 515mm/20,27" Blade len.: 323mm/12,71" Handle len.: 184mm/7,24" Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38" Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22" Weight: 483g/17oz Let's save the words, pictures show some stages of work
  12. Alright folks! Finished this little thing before the vacation, but never got around to taking photos of it... So here they are! So, first of all - the stats: Blade length: 16 cm Blade width: 3,4 cm Blade thickness: 3mm Handle length: 11,8 cm Total weight: 110 grams Blade is made in a san-mai lamination with railroad steel for the body and spring steel for the edge. Handle is made in a laminate of stabilized Maple, Teak, buffalo horn, brass and vulcanized fiber. Alright, that's it! Chiao people, and have a nice week. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  13. Mixed species ladder patterned steel.
  14. Hello. I'm pleased to offer for sale a beautiful and fully useful pattern welded seax. The materials are: edge and spine: 80CrV2 tool steel, core: approx 15 layers twist (80CrV2 x mild steel) Handle: Bog oak, curved deer antler, Hungarian plum wood + leather sacers and silver pin. Dimentions: Ov. len. 290mm (11,8") Blade leng. 140mm (5,7") Thick 3,6mm (0,14") Wide at handle 23mm (0,94") At widest point 27mm (1,1") 135$ shipped Contact via PM or: krylip (at) gmail.com
  15. Here is a custom Chef's Knife I just finished up for a customer. The 22,5cm blade is forged in an exotic jet-turbine alloy mixed with high carbon steel, folded to 44 layers, twisted and laminated in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. The handle is in stabilized Zebra wood, Jamaican blue mahoe, buffalo horn and vulcanized fiber. weight: 214 grams Blade length: 22,5 cm Blade width: 3,5 cm Blade thickness: 4 mm Blade hardness: 63 HRC Handle length: 12,5 cm Handle thickness: 1,7cm Any and all critique is as always most welcome. sincerely, Alveprins.
  16. Alright - so this whole thing started in the Metallurgy section of the forum where I test some highly exotic steel from a Jet Turbine Engine shaft... That thread can be found HERE. As for the continuation of this little project - keep an eye on this thread right here. Alright, so I've tested some steel - and it seemingly has some incredible properties. It hardens to above 60 HRC when quenched in oil - but it stays maleable and not brittle - even at that hardness level. I had to use serious repeated force to break one in half. Here are some closeup images of the turbine shaft steel itself: Now - I was lucky with welding the first billet shown below: However - when attempting to double that - things did not go as well: Half the billet had a really bad weld going down the middle - it simply would not take. So - I've split them in half to be used later. Even when twisting the "good" billet - a piece came off. You can see it to the very left in the image. Some of it WAS usable though - so I proceeded with the build: Alright - so I put some high carbon steel in the middle as a san-mai lamination between what is now about 70 layers of folded turbine shaft steel, some steel from a couple of fixture pieces for holding turbine exhaust cases in place while machining as well as som 15/20 steel. The san-mai steel is Øberg-steel which hardens to a maximum of 63 HRC. Stay tuned for more progress updates.
  17. I managed to destroy a piece of steel while twisting (bad weld) and got pissed to such an extent I decided to put that project on a temporary hold and make a chef's knife out of the scraps. Here is the result. The pattern welded steel is 15 layers of twisted railroad and railroad-plates steel, and the edge steel is Øberg-steel. Hardness at edge: 58HRC Handle materials are: What kind of wood is that burl..? Anyone? + Holly, vulcanized fiber, silver tinn, and buffalo horn. NOTE: If you look towards the edge - notice a crack in the edge steel. It does not continue into the pattern welded steel though - so it will not impact the performance of the knife I think - but still... Not sure if I can sell this one. Perhaps at 50% discount? ... I already have 3x cracked cooking knives in my kitchen.. I really don't need to add another one. Note to self: Don't quench oil-hardening steels in water - even if it is an interrupted quench with water - oil - water - oil... Any critique is most welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  18. Here's a little thing I restored actually - recently. The blade was made quite a few years ago - but had been collecting dust'n rust. So - I shined it up and made a brand new handle and sheath for it. The runes on the blade reads "Smar Haukr" - old Norse for Little Hawk. Steel: Don't remember. Hardness at edge: 58 HRC (differential hardened) Handle: Russian Bog Oak (2800 years old) + maple, green vulcanized fiber and 925 silver. This will be my daily beater in the mountains and forests whenever I travel. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  19. Finally finished the leather sheath for this knife I made a while back. Original post HERE. A bit late - but finally managed to put it up for sale. I must say though - working with leather is definitively not my favorite... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  20. Recently I finished a comission knife. Pattern welded balde: one twist approx. 15 layers. Spine of reinforcing steel, cutting edge of 80CrV2 Handle: Brass, elk antler, elm wood + leather spacers and silver pins. The object both for usage and nice looking
  21. Thought I'd share this for the heck of it... I promised to make a little blade for my sisters master farrier - so I used a piece of my old botched-up Bowie and made actually two blades out of it. I made them san-mai lamination just to add some more steel into the mix - if not I would have less material. The blade consists of two bars.. or I suppose 4 - since its a san-mai blade now - 15 layer 15 and 15n20 steel, twisted, and laminated with a socalled Øberg-steel in the middle. Øberg is a swedish steel manufacturer I believe... I haven't really read into it.. Its the highest carbon one I go though.. haha HRC is around 58 - so very happy with how it turned out.
  22. Skogr Brandr - The Forestblade Blade length: 23 cm Blade width: 3,2cm Handle Length: 12,5cm Total weight: 305 grams The steel is 120 layers of twisted UHB20C, UHB15LM, 15N20, old rasps and Øberg-steel. Differential hardened. Hamon disappears towards the middle of the blade though. I suspect the clay came off quickly during quench. Handle is colored and stabilized buckeye burl fastened with a mosaic pin. Sheath is stained and waxed leather. Stitched using saddle-maker technique. Enjoy. hope you guys liked it. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  23. Update: SOLD Recently finished up this little Seax. The blade is made from a W1 edge, a 1095 and 15n20 twisted bar for the center, and 150 year old wrougt iron window par for the spine. The wrought iron is fairly corse and shows a distinct pattern. The blade is approximately 4", the handle 4.125" A sheath is not included, but I can make one upon request. Price is SOLD plus shipping. If you're interested, send me a PM or go to the etsy page here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/498881227/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking!
  24. Ok - so I sold my Saami inspired knife "Hausakljufr" - the Skull Cleaver - and an unfortunate potential buyer was so frustrated about not getting to bid on it - he decided to order a custom job. I suggested to make a Long Seax instead of a copy of Hausakljufr, since that type of knife is something I've been wanting to make for a long time. Excited as he was about vikings - he agreed. I've had full control over the design. And this one I am particularly proud of. I present to you all: Hraustligr - The Dauntless! I've scrapped my previous project found HERE - and re-purposed the steel for this knife. The steel for the body of the blade is made out of rasps, railroad, railroad plate steel, and UHB15LM steel. The steel for the edge of the blade is made out of rasps, UHB20C and UHB15LM. Body steel bars are folded to 48 layers and twisted 30 times clock and counter-clock wise. Edge steel bar is folded to 176 layers, and twisted 40 times counter-clock wise. The handle will be made in blackened folded and twisted steel, elk horn, compressed and stabilized birch bark, leather and possibly some copper. Here are some various pics from through out the process: Oh, and I've got a new favorite acid! Ferric Chloride! Omg, that stuff is caustic as hell! I love it!
  25. Let me introduce hvassþorn - the Sharp Thorn. This will be a 13cm long 3cm broad blade, and 13cm long handled thorn-themed kitchen-knife in a slim protective sheath made from antique brown stained leather. The steel with be UHB20C UHB15LM and 15N20 mixed with tool steel (old rasps) folded to about 200 layers then twisted tightly. The handle will be 2800 year old Russian bog-oak fastened with mosaic pins. I expect to get physically started on this between Winter Solstice and New-Year.
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