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Found 7 results

  1. I am new to black smithing and would like to know what tools to get. What kind of welder? What kind ofPower hammer? What kind ofPress? What kind ofGrinder? What kind ofDrill? What kind of Hammer's/Tong's? What kind of forge both propane and coal? Maybe a resource to find this stuff cause my shopping list is getting expensive Blu Max 65 = $5,995 TW90 Grinder = $3,850 Baileigh Press HSP-20A= $995 Delta drill press = $1,048 Cutting torch = $929 Venturi forge = $700 Delta 28-400 Bandsaw = $698 Post vise/Leg vise = $550 Anvils (estimate) = $500 Rod Welder = $480 Angle Grinder = $169 Stationary buffer = $52 Hammer's = ?? Tong's = ?? Punches = ?? More? Any advice cause I'm feeling pretty overwhelmed.
  2. Continuous problems with hand and impossibility to have a power hammer made me build a press. Now, Firstly I did some calculation using a log splitter excell applet I adapted to my needs. It looked like at least 30 l/minute 200 bar pump and thus 7,7 kW motor will be needed. I bought most of the hydraulics - pump, block etc. online. The motor was second hand, this is basically 3 phase 10 hP (in imperials), it would be very expensive otherwise, this way it cost me 100 bucks (equivalent). Then I built the whole hydraulic agregate. It needed special star to pyramid switch and change of fuses on that line all the way out of the building. Be carefull if you do this you might need "C" or "D rated fuses/circuit breakers. I was at one point worried, that I wont be able to run this thing without start-up electronics, but it worked. The tank is calculated for 100 liters or about 25 gallons, but its not filled up to the rim, as its works also as expansion area. There is about 70-80 liters of hydraulic fluid in it at the moment. (On the last picture you see how I pumped the fluid from 200 l barell - as my friend says : "you are positivelly maniacal, but know your way around" Well it worked. I was looking for suitable cylinders - anything over 100 mm stupid expensive, 100 mm for my purposes and with this pump weak. Found two 85 mm. They do something like 11,5 metric ton at 200 bar each - that (in my calculation I thought I run it at 170 bars first, but screw it, since it runs so well), also the 1,2 sec for 100 mm movement needs to be doubled so its 2,4 sec for 100 mm or in other words 41,5 mm per second and enough for fast forging. (so the two cylinders give me 23 ton metric and 41,5 mm/sec ram movement speed - 23 metric tons is 25,7 us tons). The frame is standard 180 mm "I" profile, I have cut a technological hole in the lower beam and welded reinforcements over, to have a punch option. Total opening is about 24 cm = 10" out of wich 14 cm is the movement of cylinders and 4" is for combined tooling. I need to cut the legs, I calculated my working height badly, and weld the ram guides, then weld the upper tooling fixture to the ram. Than at least some basic tooling - I have nice 2" mine wagon axle which I can cut and use - as ts quenchable. Other than that it works fine and performs within the parameters I have projected originally. I should have this finished till end of the week. If you decide to build one, contact me, I tell you what NOT to do. If you need any calculations on the subject I can help you with that Jaro
  3. I'm getting serious about getting a press. I'm not going to go the DIY route, since presses involve tremendous forces and I don't trust my welding ability to make something that's safe. I've looked at Uncle Al's press, the Claiborne press, etc. A very experienced smith recommended Coal Iron Forge's presses, and they have a 16-ton and a 25-ton model. The 25-ton press costs a bit more than I'd like to spend, and for the hobbyist they say the 16-ton model will do everything you need. My shop space is also limited, so the smaller press would fit better. My main use for the press would be for damascus. Will a 16-ton press be adequate? It has a 2 HP motor, 11 GPM 2-stage pump, and a 4" cylinder. There are some videos of it in action, and it appears to move metal very well. I also like the C-style press. I've used them before and I like the 180 deg. access.
  4. I just completed a 23 minute video of making a Damascus billet using the press and power hammer. Basic stuff really, just getting it to the first fold. Enjoy!
  5. I have some time to spare now and I want to get into some more serious forging. Unfortunately, I can't setup an air hammer because of noise and vibration, therefore I am building a press. The press is inspired from builds of Thorsten Pohl and Fithjof G├╝ttler. I made some drawings, got double-t steel profiles and purchased a hydraulic aggregate. Only things still missing are a cylinder and a differential valve to boost the speed in light duty operation. I am still not sure if this is the best way to fix the ram onto the cylinder though. The welding of the piston rod to the ram should not be subjected to any great bending moments due to the ram being blocked by the frame after a small margin of 0.5 mm or so that allows the ram to slide. I may come up with a different solution like a sleeve since I dont really want to weld the piston rod if I can avoid it. Is there an easy way to do this when the cylinder does come with a blank piston rod? Anyways here are the drawings that I made. If there is some general interest, I will post some masurements although you can easily adjust this by choosing other steel profiles to match your needs. I will use 120 HEM/IPBv profiles with a length of approx. 2m. But maybe I will shorten this as well so I can get it through doors more easily.
  6. Surfing craigslist and found this https://kpr.craigslist.org/tls/5285233579.html
  7. Right now my Uncle Al's forging press only has flat dies, and I really need to make some other dies for it. What I want to make first is a set of drawing dies, but I figure why just make plain drawing dies when i can make a really nice set of dies with built in stops, and with adjustable orientation. This will let me use it in one direction for drawing, in the other for forging fullers, and the stops will let me ensure I never accidentally squish too much. I'm starting with a piece of 2 inch shafting that I had laying around. I know that dies wear out eventually, so my plan is to make them replaceable without much hassle. Instead of welding the dies onto the holder plate, I plan to bolt them on with 3/8 flat head sockets. This means I only need to have matched sets of holes 90 degree from eachother to change the dies, even though the holder plate itself is 4x8. Splitting a round bar down the center is a real pain... so instead I cut myself two 4 inch pieces and am using a shaper to flatten them both at the same time. I've got a ways to go before i'm at the point that I want, and unfortunately the shaper needs a new belt, as the one on it currently wants to slip if I try to remove more than 10thou in a pass, so it's going to be a while before the shaping job is done. Shapers are not the tool to use when you're worried about speed =)
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