Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'san mai'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2019
    • Christmas KITH 2019
    • KITH 2020

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 12 results

  1. Hello everybody! My name is Tomo and I'm from Croatia. I've got a problem with san mai (and my english but that's something you cannot help me). I've welded some billets using mild steel for cladding with 1.2519 core. I draw out the billet and hit it on sides and everything seems to be solid. Then I started forging a knife. Everything goes well with forging in the point, bevels and tang. When I finish straightening on lower temps I go to normalization temp and when it cools down the parts of blade starts to delaminate. This happened on 4 of 5 blades (one was successful and I don't know why). I
  2. So I'm a newbie and I was finally able to successfully crank out a small San Mai billet of 1084 core and 15N20 by hand. I was excited to see what I could do with it after looking at work by guys like Josh Fisher. I profiled the knife, put bevels on it, then threw it in ferric for the test etch which revealed a pretty neat pattern. I decided I'd like it to be fairly nice looking, being that it is my first San Mai blade, so I took it up to 3k grit with hand sanding. I then followed etching processes that I had researched, with very bad results in the ferric. The acid left the s
  3. Hi guys, so it's my first attempt at a San mai blade but I don't know if the gaps in between my bullets are too wide. Can you take a look at them and let me know. I wouldn't want any cold shuts or delams. Thanks!
  4. My first attempt at a blade was a railroad spike knife (of course). My second attempt at a blade was a forge welded san mai from a railroad spike and some questionable coil spring. Having used up both of the spikes I had, a guy at work just gave me a bucket load more. I have a feeling that my next knife may involve a railroad spike. I really like the rustic feel of the spike as a handle contrasting a highly polished blade. A set of steak knives is on the cards. So far, everything has been an experiment and that's not likely to change. However, it's probably wise to start getting input fro
  5. Hi all! writing out of desperation, as of tonight, i am on my fourth attempt (and failure) at welding SS to cabon steel. The best i got was a few partial welds on my last attempt but it can't be that hard? Can it? first i tried a simple forge weld between several layers of aeb-l and 304, using only flurspar flux. Bound to fail, i know, but one has to try! Then i tried welding the sides and went san mai with 304 and 1075 (xc75 here in france). Three tries later and no luck! I was fairly certain i had clean welds on my last try, with aeb-l and xc75 , good heat in the forge, spraye
  6. This started out as a gift for my son but he wanted something more LOTR inspired which is cool. It is 304/1084 San mai with wrought iron fittings and a maple handle that I stiched a leather wrap around it and with an ode to Peter Johnsson I wrapped string around it wet to give it that look that is both functional and pretty damn cool looking. Overall is about 12-14" and the blade is some where around 8-9 " I promised the lady who wanted it for her husband a sheath so I made this little guy cheap and easy.
  7. San mai of wrought iron shell with 15N20 and 1095 cutting edge. Handle window contains LEGO bricks tumbled at random angles before being sanded down to show their cross-sections. Black cotton ito with 3d printed cast brass menuki. I've been having a lot of fun with these window knives, and have another half dozen in the works.
  8. If anyone is interested in coming to Tucson for a good demo, The Arizona Artist Blacksmith's Association is holding this one in Tucson on Jan. 20, 2017 Details at: http://azblacksmiths.org/calendar/ EVENT DETAILS Demonstrator: Rich Greenwood Rich was on the series premier of History Channel’s “Forged in Fire”. He was also on the most recent season’s episode for fan favorites. Rich will be demonstrating a “San Mai” style kitchen knife. San Mai is taking two, or sometimes more pieces, of steel and forge welding them together. Usually a harder steel is used as an inner core with a s
  9. San mai blade of 1095 core, random pattern shell, and pure nickle shims. Bolster and butt cap are 3D printed cast copper, designed to sport a pigs head and squiggly tail. The cutting board and knife holder was made by Eugene Manigo, owner of Kambui Custom Craft in Brooklyn - both the board and handle are reclaimed walnut and teak with new purpleheart. This is the first completed knife using my friend and fellow knifemaker's, Jann Muchnikoff, 23 ton press; what a wonderful tool! Comments and critique always welcome, Theo
  10. Cherry handle and wrought iron and 1095 San Mai steel blade. A Scandinavian style puukko with a 6 1/4 inch over all length and a 2 3/8inch blade. The carving on the top of the handle is a Swedish design has been around for centuries, and is adorned with a copper pin in the center. Thanks,
  11. Well I've struck again, working to do well in this style before I want to move on to others. I've got a wrought iron and 1095 San Mai Puukko, with a birds eye maple handle. Simple but useful. OAL - 6.5 inches Blade Length - 2.5 inches Blade thickness - 3/16 of an inch Handle - A smidgeon under 4 inches All comments are welcome, I won't improve otherwise. Thanks for looking everyone. -Tim
  12. Finished some knives... Both are wrought iron san mai with super pretty curley maple ( cut from the same block...thanks to Jared Stier!) for the handles. You really have to move it around in the light for the full effect. Not really any similarities beyond that First is a little quickie puukko-esque knife I made for fun. I did a bit of carving on it because I hadnt done any in a long time. I learned with this one that carving and buffing are, for all intents and purposes, mutually excusive . I'm still digging white compound out of the cracks...I'll probaby make a sheath for this one a
×
×
  • Create New...