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Found 13 results

  1. Ladies and Gentlemen... Let me present Silf Brandr - the Silver Blade! Blade in a san-mai lamination from a 3-bar multibar billet - making the lamination count a total of 7 pieces. My standard railroad steel for the body, with ferrier's rasps and saw-mill steel for the folded edge-steel, with a core of high carbon tool steel. Handle in African Ebony, American Holly, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. the finger guard is in moose antler. Sheath is in tooled and dual colored leather. Mahogany red background, and antique black stain borders. Stitched with Tiger Thread using saddler's stiches. The handle is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse and reads: ek em silf brandr. Burin af eldr ok járn. ávalt hvass ok buin til roðinn. I am the silver blade. born of fire and iron. forever sharp and ready to blood-stain. The knife is incredibly light at only 105 grams, with point of balance being spot on the middle of the finger-guard. The knife can be gripped normally with index finger behind the guard, or in front of it. It is mean to be carried horizontally in the belt, on the left side - with the handle pointing a bit out in front of the stomach. Comfortable positioning, and easy access. Unfortunately the blade came out with a few blemishes in terms of bad welds - but I've made sure they do not pose any threat to the functionality of the knife itself other than being cosmetic. I didn't have the heart to scrap it though... Anyhow, any critique and feedback is as always - most welcome. :) And have a wonderful weekend folks!
  2. I just finished a little blade for a guy who had a dream of making his own knife... So I cracked - and forged him this one. The one and only non-mounted blade I'll ever sell. Anyhow - thought it might be of interest to have a peek. Didn't do any fancy photo-shoot for this one, so it's a single mobile phone picture only... The blade is about 13cm long, and 3,something wide. 3,5mm thick. The pattern welded steel is made from an old sawmill blade and 15n20 for contrast. The edge is Øberg steel. Initial hardness after hardening and anealing for 3 hours was 63 HRC. Took me quite a few aditional hours to get it down to around 58... But here we are, all finished and polished up! Anyhow - time for summer vacation and motorcycle tour through the rest of Europe. fixing up my workshop with new benches, shelves, lighting and stuff - and then it's back to new and exciting projects after the summer!
  3. Let me present Roðinn Hrafn - the Red or "Bloodstained Raven". Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with Holly for the core, copper, brass and vulcanized fiber. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes - written in old Norse - and filled with ashes. Any and all critique, is ... as always - most welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  4. Alright, so from the same billet as my last knife - here is another one. Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with spacers in brass and vulcanized fiber - with copper for the front. All feedback and critisism is, as always - most welcome. Chiao!
  5. Just finished another hunter... San-mai lamination, forge folded and twisted railroad steel for the body, and Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in burl Maple, with spacers in vulcanized fiber, brass and thick piece of copper. Working on the sheath, but RL job is taking up all my time. And yes... my logo is kind of big, still.. nothing has changed there. I am however - planning on perhaps having a new stencil made, without the square frame... Time will show... As usual, all feedback and critique is more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  6. Alright folks! Finished this little thing before the vacation, but never got around to taking photos of it... So here they are! So, first of all - the stats: Blade length: 16 cm Blade width: 3,4 cm Blade thickness: 3mm Handle length: 11,8 cm Total weight: 110 grams Blade is made in a san-mai lamination with railroad steel for the body and spring steel for the edge. Handle is made in a laminate of stabilized Maple, Teak, buffalo horn, brass and vulcanized fiber. Alright, that's it! Chiao people, and have a nice week. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  7. Here is a custom Chef's Knife I just finished up for a customer. The 22,5cm blade is forged in an exotic jet-turbine alloy mixed with high carbon steel, folded to 44 layers, twisted and laminated in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. The handle is in stabilized Zebra wood, Jamaican blue mahoe, buffalo horn and vulcanized fiber. weight: 214 grams Blade length: 22,5 cm Blade width: 3,5 cm Blade thickness: 4 mm Blade hardness: 63 HRC Handle length: 12,5 cm Handle thickness: 1,7cm Any and all critique is as always most welcome. sincerely, Alveprins.
  8. I managed to destroy a piece of steel while twisting (bad weld) and got pissed to such an extent I decided to put that project on a temporary hold and make a chef's knife out of the scraps. Here is the result. The pattern welded steel is 15 layers of twisted railroad and railroad-plates steel, and the edge steel is Øberg-steel. Hardness at edge: 58HRC Handle materials are: What kind of wood is that burl..? Anyone? + Holly, vulcanized fiber, silver tinn, and buffalo horn. NOTE: If you look towards the edge - notice a crack in the edge steel. It does not continue into the pattern welded steel though - so it will not impact the performance of the knife I think - but still... Not sure if I can sell this one. Perhaps at 50% discount? ... I already have 3x cracked cooking knives in my kitchen.. I really don't need to add another one. Note to self: Don't quench oil-hardening steels in water - even if it is an interrupted quench with water - oil - water - oil... Any critique is most welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  9. Thought I'd share this for the heck of it... I promised to make a little blade for my sisters master farrier - so I used a piece of my old botched-up Bowie and made actually two blades out of it. I made them san-mai lamination just to add some more steel into the mix - if not I would have less material. The blade consists of two bars.. or I suppose 4 - since its a san-mai blade now - 15 layer 15 and 15n20 steel, twisted, and laminated with a socalled Øberg-steel in the middle. Øberg is a swedish steel manufacturer I believe... I haven't really read into it.. Its the highest carbon one I go though.. haha HRC is around 58 - so very happy with how it turned out.
  10. I feel I've had quite a productive week! After a complete failure (serious delamination) where I had to discard the entire blade, I felt kinda out of it... However - I pulled myself together and finished an old knife I had forgotten all about, and also decided to finish a new knife design I've been working on... Hunter A: This one is kind of improvized actually. I started making this one - then my belt grinder broke down - and I put it aside. I only resumed work on it after I broke another knife I actually cared about finishing. Wood is Buckeye Burl, steel is my usual steel, san-mai lamination and differentially hardened. Hunter B: This is my interpetation of a Puukko knife. I though all those regular designs here in Norway were so boring - I decided to go with a full tang version... So, yeah.. Perhaps its not a puukko at all... haha! Wood is 2800 year old bog-oak from Russia. Blade is made from old wrought iron I found on my property. (probably more than a 100 years old...) and modern #20 steel. The unusual wrought iron made a tough time for me, and I got some delamination and stuff due to - I suppose - not using high enough heat while forge welding. I was not aware I needed super high temperature for wrought iron. But now I know better! Anyhow, threw this one away - then regretted doing so - and decided to instead actually finish it. I love how the acid reacted with the iron... Gave incredible contrast. I am going to drop these two babies off at a saddle-maker for sheaths. I still lack the neccesary equipment for leatherworking - but I suppose I will order a bunch of stuff off E-bay soon enough. Any critique is as always sincerely welcome! Sincerely, Alveprins.
  11. Ok, so I wanted to make something a little special... I decided to combine modern #20 steel for the edge, and some - I presumed iron - I'd dug out of the ground on my property which I bought last year. (The oldest part of my house is dated to around 1820) So.. I found this round iron wedge under my old storehouse, along with some chains and farm equipment for digging in the earth and whatnot... So I decided to use the wedge for the san-mai lamination. I drew it out into two flat bars, cleaned them up, and added the modern steel. While working on the forge weld, I noticed the mystery-metal was extremely soft, and it felt as if it would not "take" very well... And by "take", I mean stick to the steel. I found it to be somewhat difficult to get it laminated. The "iron" would simply be squeezed around the carbon steel in the middle - as a result of their quite different levels of hardness obviously. Anyhow, I could see the blade starting to de-laminate even at normalization, so I dropped the differential hardening and just went for a straight quench instead. I got two normalization cycles in before quencing. I let the blade air-cool all the way down to +23C before re-heating. Anyhow, here are some pics: BEFORE QUENCH: AFTER QUENCH: Notice the extreme difference in color between the edge and the jacket? AFTER #120 SANDPAPER: I have no previous experience with iron - so I am asking... Is this how iron looks in contrast to steel in a lamination like this? I thought it looked so special, I could not bring myself to discart the blade. I feel the historical significance of the iron or whatever it is - is too valuable to me to simply discart this otherwise fine blade. The mystery-metal does not even seem to have taken the quench... Hardness is like - less than 40HRC. But the edge on the other hand is as expected 63HRC - which is as high as this particular steel goes. It current rests in my oven at 200C... Oh, and that delamination near the handle area? - I cheated and welded that bastard shut with my arch welder! I'll hapilly take any input and thoughts on that "iron" or whatnot though... I havent seen coloration like that before... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  12. Ok, so I've been busy all day and all night the past few days to complete this modest little thing in time for the 50th birthday of one of my colleagues. My boss approached me and asked if I could come up with a knife for a colleague since he is a hunter - and I could not resist the chance to make something I havent made before. So here it goes: Blade length: 103mm Blade thickness: 4mm at handle - tapering down to a narrow tip. Blade hardness at edge: 63 HRC. Handle length: 109mm Blade materials: UHB20C for the edge and UHB15LM for the jacket. Differentially hardened ofc. Handle materials: Madagascar Ebony and mosaic pins. The blade is full tang, naturally. And here are the pics... Fashionably amateurish as always: Any and all critique is as always very welcome. I must say though - I am extremely happy with the handle. You probably can't tell from the images, but this knife sits really well in the hand... Its like... I don't want to let it go once I grip it... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  13. Ok, so since I'm new here - and this is my first post - I thought I'd share my first knife and the process which through I made it. The knife is a 108 layer, twisted double bar damascus in san-mai lamination, differentially hardened with "blue clay". The steel used is #15 and #20 for the damascus, and "Øberg steel" for the edge. Handle is African ebony, with mosaic pins from Russia. I started off with a stack of 12 sheets of #15 and #20 steel welded together at the corners with my arch-welder. I proceeded to hammering it out into a long bar. And then cleaned it up with my angle grinder, cut it in three and stacked them arch-welding the corners again. I then drew it out into a long bar again. Cleaned and cut in three once more, and ofc. arch-welded the billet. Now having rougly 108 layers of steel, I drew it out to a square stock and cut it in half. I then proceeded to twisting the two halves. Some more twisting... And then some more - until I was satisfied with them. I then took the two twisted bars with me to work and borrowed the belt sander a bit... (mine sucks. Building a new one...) And then forge welded those two bars together, and drew it out once more. Cleaned it up, cut it in half, and inserted the middle steel for the edge. (Øberg steel.) Used the angle grinder once more to get everyting nice and even. I used too little steel ofc... and had to forge weld three plates of #15 steel, pound them out to the correct diameter - and then forge weld the new "extra length" onto the actual damascus billet. I then drew the outline of the knife. I then proceeded to cut the knife out - using my trusty angle-grinder. And taking it back to work once more - to borrow the belt sander. I then wrapped it in clay, which cracked up - so I had to wire it in place. (ceramic "blue clay") I quenced in regular "food oil" I bought at the super market. Then heat-treated the blade in my kitchen oven at +200 celcius for 2 hours. Polished it to 12000grit on my #220, #1000, #3000, #8000 and #12000 Naniwa Japanese sharpening stones.(oh, and #600 paper between #220 and #1000) And then etched the blade in 30% hydrochloric acid - neutralizing with windex and wiping off the blade with soft paper. I then glued on the ebony handle scales - attaching it to the full tang using mosaic pins I got off E-bay from Russia... And then finished the handle using files and sand paper up to #600. (Going to apply #1200 at work tomorrow before applying some wax or oil to it as well...) No power-hammer or hydraulic press was used. Only 1,5kg hammer, tongs, and a modified plummer's wrench for twisting the steel. A few mistakes was made along the way - and the knife has a few flaws... Flaws that will not be repeated in the next one. (I've allready ordered materials for it. Fossilized mammoth amongst other things. ) My biggest disapointment though - is the lack of hamon. Perhaps it will not show on this type of steel - oil-quenched. I quenched one blade in water though - but it broke - and I didn't want to repeat that... I definitively need to come up with some better clay... This one crack's up way too much. So - after having done this project I now have a 1.5kw electric motor down in the basement, waiting for the belt-sander metal framework and wheels to arrive in the mail from Croatia. I've also been in contact with a company in China about importing a 16kg C41-16 air-hammer. Forge folding those billets is really timeconsuming when done by hand, and I figured I can save quite a bit of time by getting a powerhammer to do the rough work on. Any comments or general feedback is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Alveprins - Norway.
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