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Found 80 results

  1. Introduction and first knives

    Hey, I'm Mike and I'm new to the forums. I've been making knives off and on for about a year. My focus is on historical pieces from the migration period through the viking age. Here are the blades I've made so far as well as a couple Mjolnir pendants I forged in order of completion.
  2. "Smar Haukr" - Little Hawk Seax

    Here's a little thing I restored actually - recently. The blade was made quite a few years ago - but had been collecting dust'n rust. So - I shined it up and made a brand new handle and sheath for it. The runes on the blade reads "Smar Haukr" - old Norse for Little Hawk. Steel: Don't remember. Hardness at edge: 58 HRC (differential hardened) Handle: Russian Bog Oak (2800 years old) + maple, green vulcanized fiber and 925 silver. This will be my daily beater in the mountains and forests whenever I travel. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  3. It's a frequent discussed topic, but I thought I'd open a tread specificially dealing with evidence for broken back style sax sheaths, in particular aimed at the fittings, suspension. Anyone who has looked for information on this subject will find that the archeological evidence is unsatisfactory incomplete. There are quite a lot of leather sheaths found in rubbish pits in the UK and Ireland, but they are nearly always completely stripped of any metalwork. First a summary of the examples that still have metalwork remaining: The famous hunting knife of Charlemagne, which so far has the most intact sheath known: Not a lot of describing text is available about the sheath (to me). The exact dating is unknown, as is the material of the fittings. It could be gold filligree and glass inlay. The total length of the seax is 52cm. Worth noting is that the shape of the scabbard does not match the blade: the length of the tip beyond the angle is shorter on the sheath as well as the entire blade portion of the sheath. This could mean that the sheath. This could indicate that the sheath was not made for this particular seax.
  4. Seax for my demo in AZ

    This is the seax blade I welded up and forged out in my demo at Grizzy Iron works in Phoenix AZ last Feb, Totally welded with out flux or oil under Grizz's chambersburg 300 utility hammer. The bolster is moose antler and the handle is stabilized sycamore
  5. First multibar knives

    I used 1095, L6, and 15n20. I ended up making 2 smaller knives out of the material because I had an inclusion in the middle that there was no getting around. I have not cast the guards or pommels yet, one will be inlayed with Lapis Lazuli and the other with malachite.
  6. Simple seax

    Two rather simple seaxes I recently finished. I've been quiet here lately, working on a very challenging commission that has me upgrading much of my equipment, the heat-treatment in particular. These two blades are part of the first group of blades heat-treated in my new furnace, and I needed something new to take to Tannehill, so I went ahead and finished these out. The blades are forged from 1084 and are just under 1/4" thick. Both were grinded down to a zero edge, then refined with a tiny micro-bevel... They are very sharp and cut well for being so thick. One is 10 5/8" overall with a 5 11/16" blade and maple handle. The smaller one is 8 11/16" overall with a 4" blade and bog oak handle. The sheaths are embossed leather with bronze fittings.
  7. Damascus Seax

    From the album Jeff H's Work

  8. Damascus Seax Blade

    From the album Jeff H's Work

    Seax blade from the first damascus billet I ever made.
  9. a seaxy machete

    hello guys! it's been a while hope you are all doing fine! so this is my last work, had the chance to fondle few seax repros at a recent knife show, so i decided to try and make myself one. While forging i decided to go for a type I/II norse style, not really accurate but i like the outcome. i recycled some leaf springs (i know it's frowned upon but hey all good for experience) total length around 54 cm blade is 38 cm thickness around 5-6 mm the handle is made out of brass, gabon ebony and walnut might try to carve it some of these days need to do some research on shapes and designs it's a bit rough and not really polished, have some aesthetic errors i dislike so this one will be my personal one xD well hope at least some of you like this one let me know your thoughts on it (bad or good i accept both)
  10. Seax WIP

    Greetings everyone, I’ve got a commission that has started me down the multi-bar road, so I thought I’d try and do a WIP. The commission is for an anglo-taxon style broken back seax with an 18” or so blade. I decided to do a basic 3 bar blade with wrought iron on the top, a twist in the middle, and high layer count on the bottom: I made my 3 bars, the middle being 36 layers of 15N20 and 1095, and the edge was 432 layer of the same. I tried using hose clamps to hold the bar together and I thought it worked really well. I forged out the blade about 70% of the way and realized I had been forging upside down - d’oh! Nice wrought iron edge. I did what I could to recover something from the mess, and ended up with these two blades: The smaller one is 6 1/4” (158mm), and the larger one is... well, larger (I forgot to measure it). I'm very happy with the pattern, thought I wanted tighter twists. Learned Lesson #1 - make sure you clearly mark which way side is the edge and which is the spine. Attempt #2: So I started again, same plan. As I was forging I realized I had a gap opening up between the edge bar and the twist in a particular area of the bar. I realized that was where the bar had not been square, but had gone diamond shaped on me. I tried rewelding it a couple times with mixed success. One spot just wouldn’t stick even after soaking overnight in vinegar and then fluxing heavily. So I had to shorten the blade to 14” (355mm) to put that spot in the tang: I hit the split with the TIG welder in the tang. A tiny bit goes into the blade, but it’s only on one side, and there is another small weld flaw a bit farther up, but again it was only on one side, so I left it. BTW, thanks to Emilliano Carrillo for coaching me through all these problems via text :-) Learned Lesson #2 - square-up your bars before welding them together. So, attempt # 3. Third time was a charm: I made sure my bars were square, cleaned the sides to be welded carefully, And hammered gently when forging until the billet had enough time/heat for the welds to really set. I did my best to normalize the blade, but I had to do it in sections because it was so long. Then it soaked overnight in vinegar to remove the scale and on to grinding. It took me about 4 hours of grinding to get it down to where I wanted it. I forged it a bit thick on purpose so I could grind past all the surface wrinkles and such caused by the patterns & welds. I ended up with this: The tang had to be cut because I can only fit 23” in my heat treat kiln. This has very light etch on it to show the pattern because the next step was a wire inlay of runes. The customer happens to be an expert in Old English, so I trade him the pattern welding of the blade for a low volume of his translation services in perpetuity. His last name happens to be Bishop, and we decided this blade would be named “Bishop’s Boar”, which he translated into “bisceopes eofor”. I printed out the runes on the computer so the spacing would be correct, and taped them to the place i wanted them on the blade. I then cut through the paper with a utility knife to mark them on the blade. It works surprisingly well, and doesn’t rub off. I cut the runes with a Gravermax engraver. They are pricey, but are pretty much the equivalent of a power hammer for engraving. You can do so much more work so much faster. My technique is pretty basic. I’m inlaying 22ga wire which is about 1mm in diameter, so I cut the grooves 1mm wide and half mm deep. As wide as the wire and half as deep seems to be a goodformula no matter what width the wire is. This is essentially how I cut the grooves. I always try to cut to another groove if I can, and i take 2-3 passes to get down the half millimeter. You have to be gentle when engraving or you snap points Once you have the grooves cut you need to make them into a dovetail to hold the wire. I’ve tried a number of techniques, but the one that seems to work the best for me is Matt Parkinson’s - just come in from the opposite side at a 45 degree angle with a chisel directed into the bottom corner of the groove. It’s nice because the metal tends to raise up when you do it so you get visual confirmation that you’ve done it. It also holds the wire the tightest according to my yank-on-it tests. I hammer the wire in with a hammer made of graver stock. Just like a regular hammer it needs a smooth face with no sharp corners. This is what I end up with. You should be able to tug on the wire and have it not pop out. If it does, clip it off, recut your dovetails, and start again. Super short piece will pull out easier than long ones, so be gentler with them. The most important detail here is that that i leave the wire proud of the grooves. After heat treat the wire will be dead soft from quenching, and you can do another round of hammering to get it just a little farther and tighter into the grooves. Here it is completed. And here are the tools I used: Channel cutting graver on the bottom right, chisel for setting the dovetails on the bottom left, hammer on the top, and flush cut jewelers snips for cutting the wire off. Heat treat was done in a kiln with an argon atmosphere. The argon prevents decarburizing and eliminates most of the scale. Here’s the inlay after heat treat and a second round of hammering the wire. This inlay took a total of 5 hours even with a Gravermax and some experience. I machine sanded the whole blade to 240grit, then started at 220 by hand and went down to 600. Etched it for 4 10 minutes sessions in ferric chloride, then hit it with a 1000grit stone and then 1500grit sandpaper. Up next is the handle, which will be cast bronze with an attempt at faux-garnet inlay and carved bog wood. We'll see how that goes...
  11. Pattern welded seax

    Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  12. Update: SOLD Recently finished up this little Seax. The blade is made from a W1 edge, a 1095 and 15n20 twisted bar for the center, and 150 year old wrougt iron window par for the spine. The wrought iron is fairly corse and shows a distinct pattern. The blade is approximately 4", the handle 4.125" A sheath is not included, but I can make one upon request. Price is SOLD plus shipping. If you're interested, send me a PM or go to the etsy page here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/498881227/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking!
  13. Forged with 150 year old wrought iron, this seax is the result of a successful experiment in fixing flaws in old material. A crack in the wrought was filed out and filled with a small piece with matching grain direction to make an almost imperceptible fix and adding to the knife's story and character. The blade is made from a three bar of composite of W1 tool steel, twisted 14 layer 1095/15n20 and a spine from antique wrought iron window bars. The handle is made from a piece of scrap walnut and matches the blade at 5" (~12 cm) long with a very subtle hourglass shape. A sheath is not included, but I can make one custom upon request. The price for this knife is SOLD(US). If you're interested, send me a PM here or check out the knife's Etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/473932948/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton
  14. Seax in progress (long in the making!)

    Dear fellow keepers of the flame, One of the projects on my bench is a seax that has been very long in the making. The blade was forged many years ago and has been sleeping undisturbed for a long while. When Owen organised his "Axe and Seax" event the other year I decided to bring along this seax to have something to show. It never made it, as I as distracted and could not finish it in time. Now I have set about to finally completing it. Between other projects over the past few weeks I have been working on its hilt. Attached are some photos of what it currently looks like. The grip is from a rib bone of a deceased spices of sea cow with fittings of tin bronze ( a lovely warm and slightly pink color!). The leather scabbard is already done and decorated and now awaits bronze fittings. More pics to follow. Hope you enjoy!
  15. Update: SOLD This is a piece built around undulation, from the waves of the twin serpents in the blade steel and sheath, to the bursting stars of the twists and the wavy grain of the maple in the handle. The blade is made with a W1 edge, 1095/15n20 pattern welding, and mild steel in parts of the serpent. The handle is made from curly maple stained to bring out the figure and the sheath is leather with hand textured brass fittings. The front side of the sheath has a serpent tooled onto it to match the steel of the blade. I should mention that on the rear side of the sheath, there is a small irregularity in the riveting but it is not a structural problem. Blade length: 8.75" (222 mm) Handle length: 6.5" (165 mm) The price for the knife and sheath is SOLD plus shipping If you are interested, you can send me a private message or go to the knife's etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/464942116/pattern-welded-serpent-broken-back-seax Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton
  16. From the album stuff working on

    Seax i'm working on at the moment.
  17. Two PW seaxes

    Hello, recently I forged and finished two knives. Both pattern wleded with wrough iron. The cutting edges are made of 80CrV2 tool steel. The bigger one's handle is made of: brass, leather, deer antler, leather, black oak. The smaller one's handle is made of: brass, leather, black locust burl, leather, elm wood. I hope you like them They both are looking for new owner http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33579
  18. Three works in progress

    Just forged these three knives out, the largest one has an 8 inch blade. The seax/bowie hybrid and the large bowie are made from 5160 and will be edge quenched, the smaller Bowie is made from a rail anchor(modified 1060) and will be clay quenched in an interrupted water-oil quench to obtain a hamon.
  19. Väkipuukko KM7752:2, FinSeax

    This project started in earnest last summer when I had a whole day to personally examine three late iron age archeological finds from Finland; two seax blades and one ”ango” spearpoint. I want to thank Finland’s National Board of Antiquities and especially Intendant Leena Ruonavaara for the wonderful opportunity and professional insight. My main focus was on one of the knife blades; namely the KM7752:2 a ”straight backed Finnish seax” from Perniö. It is mentioned in ”Puukon Historia I”, by Anssi Ruusuvuori, p. 64. This particular knife blade caught my imagination (to put it mildly) and I’ve been itching to recreate the knife ever since. Lacking necessary skills, however, I decided to wait. Now - many years later - I finally summoned the courage to try my hand at it. I have to note that I am not a professional archeologist, nor historian. Everything that follows is my personal take on the issue, and does not represent the official position of Finland’s National board of Antiquities, for example. I have tried my best to gather facts and stick with them, but I’ve also shamelessly filled gaps based on intuition in order to make an item that would be a working whole. In Finnish language a seax is typically called ‘väkipuukko’. Roughly translated ‘väki’ might mean a large crowd of people, or it could be short for ‘väkevä’, which would be ‘mighty’ or ‘strong’ in this case. Both interpretations have merit, in my opinion. ‘Sotaväki’ can be translated as ‘warband’, ‘väki’ referring to the large group again. Taking this into consideration väkipuukko might translate as ’a war knife’. I have not seen reproductions of this particular knife type before, and this might be the first one in a long while. To my knowledge this type of seax is indigenous to Finland. Image courtesy of National Board of Antiquities, Finland I will not go deep into detail on the original, but here is some basic information: - thickness 4mm, tapers gently towards the tip - blade length 260mm (originally ~ 300mm according to my guesstimation) - tang 140 mm* - edge angle was difficult to measure, but might be somewhere between 11-15 degrees Being absolutely untrained in this field I did find it difficult to analyse what I was seeing, but I believe there was a random ’wood grain’ structure to the steel. I saw nothing that would indicate complicated pattern welding (does not mean it was not there). There were some ‘anomalies’ that I interpreted as possible slag inclusions. It is possible there was even a faint makers mark. To me it seems the blade shape is original, and not the result of repeated sharpening, for example. Geometry of the blade also suggests this was not a tool for mundane every day tasks. In my view that strengthens the case for the blade shape being fairly close to original. The blade is not absolutely straight backed, as there seems to be a gentle s-wave to it. Again, I believe this to be intentional. According to what I gathered nothing remains of the sheath/scabbard or the handle, suggesting both might have been made from organic material that has completely disappeared. The relatively short tang length might indicate a ”hidden tang” construction (considering other surviving examples with longer handles). However, for my knife I wanted to try something a little more complicated. There are other similar surviving knives with bronze handles. I decided to make a KM7752:2 type väkipuukko and sand cast a hollow bronze handle for it. This technique is probably not historically accurate. I could have also used modern casting methods, but decided against it for the learning experience (and suffered for it). There is precious little information available on what the sheaths for these knives might have looked like, and the one I made is almost completely from my imagination. The only clue was that nothing has been found, possibly meaning that there were no metallic decorative elements. Using this and the ‘requirements’ presented by the slender contruction of the blade (-> wooden last inside the sheath for protection) as quide I made a sheath that seems logical. As an afterthought I came up with, and, as you can probably see, quickly constructed, a metal part that could be used with the sheath. There would be a rational explanation for it being missing from the record of finds, since it is an addition that might sometimes be used, but not absolutely necessary (recycled, or re-used elsewhere). Finally I have to add that since this project was part of my studies I was working with a strict time constraint that did not leave much room for experimentation, practice or correcting of mistakes. That is why there are some differences between the original blade and my version. For example, the decorative markings are not exactly the same. When making them I had a mental image of what I was going for, and in a hurry did not remember to check one more time what the actual pattern was like. A mistake, but I can live with it. This was a first, after all. Furthermore, this was my first serious bronze casting, and easily the most complicated forge welded blade I have ever made. Dimensions of the blade are almost exacly the same as in the original, but the steel is a five (+) layer laminate; Stenco ‘leuku’ (almost pure 0,8% carbon steel) in the middle, followed by wrought steel that I had to weld together from small rusty pieces of old farming equipment. And finally there is a layer of almost pure iron. The handle is about 180mm long, with a ’tear drop’ profile and a peened through tang construction. It is made from two parts; front bolster and the hollow handle element. Blade is 300mm long. Interesting ratio between blade and handle.. When making this knife I tried my best to work by eye alone to achieve a natural look. I am very happy with this väkipuukko, and I’m going to hold on to it. Please tell me what you think.
  20. Kraken Seax (Hafgufa)

    According to the Örvar-Odds saga, Hafgufa was the mother of all sea monsters and fed on whales, ships, men, and anything it could catch. Hafgufa was said to have lived underwater, and when the tide was low at night, her nose and head would rise out of the water. The only physical description provided in the saga is the nose sticking out of the water, which was mistaken for two massive rocks rising from the sea. Source: Wikipedia Blade: 5.625″ Wrought Iron Spine, 1095/15N20 Twist, 1095 Edge This blade was forged to feel like a sea creature. The middle bar is oddly twisted to look like tentacles reaching out through the tides of the ocean just under the surface of the sea, which is represented by rippled wrought iron. The point of the blade is structured to feel like the side profile of a ship with a gentle curve upward to a stable deck. Handle: 4.25″ Wrought Iron, Extinct Sea Cow Rib Bone, Copper Pin The handle is hand carved from extinct sea cow bone. The carving is of kraken tentacles reaching upward and grasping at the copper pin, which much like a sail on a ship is the main element that can rip the piece apart. The guard is also wrought iron and has the word, “Kraken” carved into in on both sides in runes. Overall: 10″ Spine: .125″ through break POB: center of the guard Check my ETSY store for availability. Check out the build pics here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/kraken%20seax
  21. Seax Geometry

    Hello everyone, This here is my first ever attempt at making a blade. It's forged out of 1095, 17 1/2" in length overall, with a 12" blade. What do you think of the overall blade geometry? My thought is the tip is too pointy, and I need to grind the break down to a steeper angle. Also, is the tang too wide? I think I'm probably going to burn on a simple wooden handle.
  22. First Knife

    From the album Jeff H's Work

    This is the first blade I've ever made.
  23. Thorvaldr's Seax

    I finally got another blade out the door. This one was a commission for a very patient customer (Thorvaldr). I guess I'd call it a heavily historical fantasy seax. The blade is Aldo's 1084. It's 10" long, flat grind, 1/4" spine. It does taper ever so slightly from the peak of the spine back to the handle, but it's barely noticeable. The blade has younger futhark runes inlaid in nu gold (15% zinc, 80% copper). On the right side they say "Thorvaldr owns me" and on the left "MHB made me". The customer had his previous seax stolen so maybe have his name inlaid in the blade will deter theft / aid recovery. The handle consists of a cast bronze front plate I soldered on, a section of moose antler I carved with a dremel and dyed with potassium permanganate, a bronze spacer, carved cherry with burned edges, another spacer, more moose, and another cast plate. I unfortunately took only a couple WIP pics. These are all the handle components before assembly. The tang is thick all the way back to 1/3 way through the second moose antler section. After that I threaded it for a washer and nut. Everything fit fairly tightly dry, and then I coated everything with a tin layer of acraglass and assembled. You can kinda see it in the pic above, but the assembly is finished by putting the washer and nut on after the end moose antler and tightening them. This hold the whole thing together tightly even without the acraglass. With the acraglass filling in the little spaces and then filling up the space around the nut it should hold together for a long time. The end piece is nailed in place with 4 bronze nails and some acraglass. i drilled the holes exactly the diameter of the nails so they got good friction but didn't risk splitting the antler. The sheath is 8oz cowhide wet-formed to the seax, embossed, and dyed. All the fittings are hand stamped from bronze sheet except for the ring, which I carved and cast. Yeah, it took me a long freakin' time to finish this puppy. There are mistakes I'm not happy with (notice how the plates on the sheath don't line up right?), but overall I'm very pleased with it, and so is the new owner.
  24. My First Seax

    Hey all, This is a blade about 6 months in the making. The billet is 1095 with a wrought iron core, and I had forged this out at Scott Roush's place last fall. This is nothing but firsts for me, from the seax, to the fittings on the sheath. It was a great learning experience and am looking forward to making another one soon with my new found experience. As always, advice and critique are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Stats: OAL: 10 1/4 inches blade: 5 3/8, 1/4 thick at the break Vegetable tanned leather with brass sheet used for the fittings.
  25. Trying to make a wolf teeth sax

    Hi, everyone I was always fascinated by those wolf teeth patterns found on viking age spears and saxes but the only time I tried to make it before it was a complete failure. Anyway, I decided to make it again, excited due to a video from Niels Provos about it on Youtube. Here are some of the steps: First, with an angle grinder, I just marked the area on which I would put the "teeth". My cutting discs are about 1,5mm (1/16in) thick, then I decided to use a 2mm thick sheet of mild steel for it. As it where a bit thicker than the hole, I ground it a little, so it would be both smaller and cleaner to the welding process. It should not be so thin because I wanted it to be held even before the forge welding process. After that it was all firmly held on the steel bar. Just before assembling all the pieces together. Here all the bars. The edge from 5160 steel, then a 2mm sheet of 1020 steel, 2 twisted bars of 1020/1070 and at last wrought iron. Forge welding it. After welding it all together I simply made a pseudo-tang to help holding it better. I was really anxious to know how it would look like. Then I ground it a little to see how it was. And this is how it was after the forging. I have to grind it a lot more. I wished to remove more material so it could reach a level on the twisted bars that would look more than simple stripes. But it is going good for a first try. Even if not so straight as i would wish it. Sadly it ended with what look like a different steel between the 1020 teeth and the 1020 thin bar on the point area. I don't know if it is the lack of a heat treatment or if there occurred some carburization while forge welding. I'll take a better look after all the HT. A friend from Facebook said me to make the initial cuts more triangular next time, so the teeth would be able to put pressure on it's walls too, not only to the bottom. I'll experiment that. Well, I hope you like it. I really don't know yet what will come out from this blade, but I'm looking forward to work with it soon.