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Found 10 results

  1. My first attempt at a blade was a railroad spike knife (of course). My second attempt at a blade was a forge welded san mai from a railroad spike and some questionable coil spring. Having used up both of the spikes I had, a guy at work just gave me a bucket load more. I have a feeling that my next knife may involve a railroad spike. I really like the rustic feel of the spike as a handle contrasting a highly polished blade. A set of steak knives is on the cards. So far, everything has been an experiment and that's not likely to change. However, it's probably wise to start getting input from those more skilled in the art so that I may produce something that is fit for purpose. I recently acquired a random bunch of stock... mostly mild steel and 3xx stainless. Luckily, I did find a square bar of 440, although I don't know if it's A, B or C, so I guess I have to assume A? I'm thinking of repeating the san mai, only this time slotting in some 440 instead of the useless coil spring. With that in mind, I have a few questions... Are there any special considerations when forge welding mild steel to stainless? Assuming the 440 is A, is it even worth using or should I look for something else? Given that I don't know whether it's A, B or C, how should I handle the heat treat? Also, is there anything else I shoud be thinking about for this project?
  2. Hey guys, got a question that I need an answer to, and thought you guys would be my best option. I'm wanting to try and put a black oxide finish on stainless steel, the big golf companies do it on putter which are stainless, just wondering an easy in-house way of doing it? Thanks,
  3. While moving the copious quantities of stuff from the old back yard to the new back yard, I came upon 6 pieces of stainless steel flat bar. They are 4" w by .250" thick and about 6 feet long. I don't know where they came from or what type of stainless they are. However, they do have some markings on the side. HT#4FC4 and ASTM A240. Now I know that ASTM A240 is a standard for manufacture of chromium and nickel stainless steels, but who knows what kind? It doesn't "feel" or look like 400 series. Could it be 300 series?
  4. Hi all! writing out of desperation, as of tonight, i am on my fourth attempt (and failure) at welding SS to cabon steel. The best i got was a few partial welds on my last attempt but it can't be that hard? Can it? first i tried a simple forge weld between several layers of aeb-l and 304, using only flurspar flux. Bound to fail, i know, but one has to try! Then i tried welding the sides and went san mai with 304 and 1075 (xc75 here in france). Three tries later and no luck! I was fairly certain i had clean welds on my last try, with aeb-l and xc75 , good heat in the forge, sprayed some wd40 before the last weld, soaked forever, and only got a few partials... any ideas? Advice?
  5. I know you guys are gonna hate me because this isn't forged but...sometimes a high quality stainless blade is what you need Anyways I am very proud of this and I hope you guys enjoy it! Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. Handle:Wa handle style about 5.125" long (130mm). The bolster is made from black paper micarta to mimic buffalo horn but have complete water resistance. The body portion of the handle is made from a beautiful piece of stabilized curly Tasmanian Blackwood. This stuff looks sort of like Goa wood and the amount of chatoyance it exhibits really is something to admire. Simply put it's a gorgeous piece of wood. Overall this knife is ~12.25" or 311mm Price: I am asking $500 plus shipping which will probably be done via USPS. and now for some pictures! IMG_5095.MOV IMG_5097.MOV
  6. Well this is a blade that is stainless steel and done via stock removal don't hate me too much guys! Sometimes high quality stainless is the way to go! I hope you enjoy it! Please feel free to share your thoughts and opinions on how I can improve my work. Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. Handle:Wa handle style about 5.125" long (130mm). The bolster is made from black paper micarta to mimic buffalo horn but have complete water resistance. The body portion of the handle is made from a beautiful piece of stabilized curly Tasmanian Blackwood. This stuff looks sort of like Goa wood and the amount of chatoyance it exhibits really is something to admire. Simply put it's a gorgeous piece of wood. Overall this knife is ~12.25" or 311mm and now for some pictures! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/q74di1XsrqY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YFUrPx_7Hrg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  7. Hello, I had my first attempt at AEB-L heat treatment two days ago. I used this recipe: https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/Pictures/Info/Steel/AEBL-Typical.gif Method 1 without crio, tempering in 350F. Blades were wrapped in foil. Oil quenched with foil. After tempering the smaller one is very springy, the other one can be easily bent by hand. Both were together in the same oven. I've tested them with files, and both seems to be over 55HRC. I'll try to test them on the professional meter at my friend's workshop. Anyway, lack of springiness is a bad sign Any ideas? What went wrong? Why one is springy and the other is not? Is it possible to repeat the HT, or the knife is lost? It was my first stainless steel HT, so I lack experience
  8. Hey guys I finished this one up about a month ago and thought I would share it with you. The blade is made out of .100' thick CPM154 stainless and is 8" long. Handle is g10 with brass pins. The grind is slightly convex and was taken to .005" before sharpening. The spine and chill were crowned for maximum comfort. Now for the pics... Thanks for checking it out. Please feel free to comment/Critique -Jeff Fogleboch
  9. Hi All, Something a little different from the Mongrel Knives shop today. How about a Karambit or if you prefer a Hawkbill fixed blade. The specifics: Steel : .156 thick, 154-CM to a Rockwell 61 Pins: 3/16 416 stainless Scales: Black Canvas Mikarta. Overall length: 9.75 inches Blade length: in front of the scales 4 7/8 inches, convex grind Cutting edge: 4 inches Handle thickness: 5/8 inch Weight: 7 oz. Finish: Mirror on the edge, spine and around the scales, black oxide on the flats. Finish on the canvas Mikarta is through 1200 grit. (looks like carbon fiber) Kydex sheath can be worn inside or outside the belt, handle forward or backward or cross draw. Price is $150.00 sheath included plus $7.50 for Priority Shipping to the lower 48. Thanks for looking comments are always appreciated. Ken
  10. Hi All, Here again with my latest knife this one is a Coffin Handled Bowie. This is a good one pulled out all the stops. Blade steel is ATS-34 bolsters and pins are 416. Handle material is black paper Micarta with red fiber spacers, so it has a real slick look to it. Feels great in the hand hardened to a Rockwell 60. The file work is the Vine and Thorns pattern. The Specifics: Blade Steel – 3/16ths ATS-34 Rockwell - 60 Bolsters and pins – 416 that makes the whole knife hi carbon semi stainless Handel Material – Black Paper Micarta and red fiber spacers (don’t be fooled by the paper it very tough stuff) Length – 10.25 inches Blade length – in front of the bolster is 5 inches Handle depth – Micarta, steel, Micarta is .75 inches Very sharp and pointy, comes with a Codura pouch. If you want a Kydex sheath for it let me know and I will custom make one for you. Vertical presentation or whatever you want for an additional $25.00 Price with Codura pouch is $225.00 Comments are always welcome and thanks for looking, Ken Thanks for looking comments are always welcome. Your comments have gotten me this far so keep it up.
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