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Found 10 results

  1. My first attempt at a blade was a railroad spike knife (of course). My second attempt at a blade was a forge welded san mai from a railroad spike and some questionable coil spring. Having used up both of the spikes I had, a guy at work just gave me a bucket load more. I have a feeling that my next knife may involve a railroad spike. I really like the rustic feel of the spike as a handle contrasting a highly polished blade. A set of steak knives is on the cards. So far, everything has been an experiment and that's not likely to change. However, it's probably wise to start getting input fro
  2. Hey guys, got a question that I need an answer to, and thought you guys would be my best option. I'm wanting to try and put a black oxide finish on stainless steel, the big golf companies do it on putter which are stainless, just wondering an easy in-house way of doing it? Thanks,
  3. While moving the copious quantities of stuff from the old back yard to the new back yard, I came upon 6 pieces of stainless steel flat bar. They are 4" w by .250" thick and about 6 feet long. I don't know where they came from or what type of stainless they are. However, they do have some markings on the side. HT#4FC4 and ASTM A240. Now I know that ASTM A240 is a standard for manufacture of chromium and nickel stainless steels, but who knows what kind? It doesn't "feel" or look like 400 series. Could it be 300 series?
  4. Hi all! writing out of desperation, as of tonight, i am on my fourth attempt (and failure) at welding SS to cabon steel. The best i got was a few partial welds on my last attempt but it can't be that hard? Can it? first i tried a simple forge weld between several layers of aeb-l and 304, using only flurspar flux. Bound to fail, i know, but one has to try! Then i tried welding the sides and went san mai with 304 and 1075 (xc75 here in france). Three tries later and no luck! I was fairly certain i had clean welds on my last try, with aeb-l and xc75 , good heat in the forge, spraye
  5. I know you guys are gonna hate me because this isn't forged but...sometimes a high quality stainless blade is what you need Anyways I am very proud of this and I hope you guys enjoy it! Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. Handle:Wa handle style about 5.125" long (130mm). The bolster is mad
  6. Well this is a blade that is stainless steel and done via stock removal don't hate me too much guys! Sometimes high quality stainless is the way to go! I hope you enjoy it! Please feel free to share your thoughts and opinions on how I can improve my work. Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. H
  7. Hello, I had my first attempt at AEB-L heat treatment two days ago. I used this recipe: https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/Pictures/Info/Steel/AEBL-Typical.gif Method 1 without crio, tempering in 350F. Blades were wrapped in foil. Oil quenched with foil. After tempering the smaller one is very springy, the other one can be easily bent by hand. Both were together in the same oven. I've tested them with files, and both seems to be over 55HRC. I'll try to test them on the professional meter at my friend's workshop. Anyway, lack of springiness is a bad sign Any ideas? Wh
  8. Hey guys I finished this one up about a month ago and thought I would share it with you. The blade is made out of .100' thick CPM154 stainless and is 8" long. Handle is g10 with brass pins. The grind is slightly convex and was taken to .005" before sharpening. The spine and chill were crowned for maximum comfort. Now for the pics... Thanks for checking it out. Please feel free to comment/Critique -Jeff Fogleboch
  9. Hi All, Something a little different from the Mongrel Knives shop today. How about a Karambit or if you prefer a Hawkbill fixed blade. The specifics: Steel : .156 thick, 154-CM to a Rockwell 61 Pins: 3/16 416 stainless Scales: Black Canvas Mikarta. Overall length: 9.75 inches Blade length: in front of the scales 4 7/8 inches, convex grind Cutting edge: 4 inches Handle thickness: 5/8 inch Weight: 7 oz. Finish: Mirror on the edge, spine and around the scales, black oxide on the flats. Finish on the canvas Mikarta is through 1200 grit. (looks like carbon fiber) Kydex sheath can be worn
  10. Hi All, Here again with my latest knife this one is a Coffin Handled Bowie. This is a good one pulled out all the stops. Blade steel is ATS-34 bolsters and pins are 416. Handle material is black paper Micarta with red fiber spacers, so it has a real slick look to it. Feels great in the hand hardened to a Rockwell 60. The file work is the Vine and Thorns pattern. The Specifics: Blade Steel – 3/16ths ATS-34 Rockwell - 60 Bolsters and pins – 416 that makes the whole knife hi carbon semi stainless Handel Material – Black Paper Micarta and red fiber spacers (don’t be fooled
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