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Found 4 results

  1. I first want to apologize for asking three questions so far on this blade, but I haven’t been able to find any good hidden tang making tips so I’ve been winging it and asking questions along he way. This is the best I was able to get, and it’s not that good, but any suggestions before I completely grind the blade and treat it? i know tang is awful but hopefully I can hide it enough and it won’t be an issue fitting it into the handle
  2. I've mentioned before in my other posts that the steel I use is sort of thick, like maybe 1/4", so not too much but for my case too thick to make a tang out of. I don't want to make a hidden tang as I prefer scales so I have to forge/grind out the shape in the metal. How would I draw out the steel for the tang in a way that I flatten it but don't change the width much? I would experiment but I'm low on steel and would like to ask before I potentially waste what I have left, so my guess is to hit one side, then turn 180 degrees to hit, then 90 degrees to flatten, is this a good strategy?
  3. So as a beginner with a very very cheap workshop, I don't really have the tools to make hidden tangs yet, as I don't have money or space for a drill press yet. Because of this I'm stuck to scales, which means I have to shape my tangs into what the handle will eventually look like. My issue is that my steel I use is thick and when I finish my blade and start my tang, the area for my tang is usually heavier, making the blade a bad balance. So I'm basically stuck with drawing out my tang to eventually have a flatter material. When I draw out my tang, how do I make sure that the metal for the tang stays through the midpoint of the knife so that when I eventually flatten the tang, part of it doesn't protrude either above or below the blade? I know this seems like kind of a stupid and obvious question, but it was an issue with one knife I made and I want to make sure I don't make this mistake again!
  4. Hello everyone, This is both my first post here and my first attempt at creating a sword. I know any question I may have has probably been answered elsewhere, but I have yet to find where. At the moment forging a blade takes me quite some time, so by the time I finish forging, the blade usually is filled with dents from accidental crooked hammer blows and little pits from scale I suppose. But that is all something that will get better as I continue practicing. My main problem at the moment is basically anything to do with the crossguard of the sword, and the tang. (So basically the entire hilt I guess ) I have looked for a spring fuller tool or guillotine fuller tool to help me forge the blade --> tang transition, but I have yet to find it. But I guess if you can learn to forge it using just a hammer and the anvil that would be best? Are there any tips or tricks to this? Or is it just something that will eventually come together with practice? Generally when I try to forge the blade --> tang transition it ends up very uneven. Another problem I have is fitting (if that is the right word) the crossguard for the tang/blade. I first punched a hole in a 1/2 inch square piece of metal then widened (drifted I think is the right word) the hole to fit a replica tang punch that I forged and grinded to match the actual sword as closely as possible. I know this should work because I saw it done in a video, and It worked fairly well for me, but the thin parts of the metal started shearing. (I think. I will try to include pictures.) To solve this should I just simply use a thicker piece of metal? Or should I use a chisel shaped punch to create the initial hole? (I would have done that, but I don't own a chisel shaped punch at the moment. If that is the solution, however, I will be sure to get one.) This is the steel I used. I have no clue what kind it is. I bought it at Lowe's, but I figured that it would suffice for practice purposes. The round piece on the left I plan on using for the pommel. The piece in the center is what I used to make the crossguard, and the piece on the right is what the blade was forged from. This is the blade to tang transition. Quite uneven, but with practice I'm sure it will improve. Here is the crossguard. I think if I tampered with it anymore the two thin center pieces would break. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated! I'm sure there are other placed where these questions have already been answered, but I haven't been able to find them yet. One thing I have learned from blacksmithing and bladesmithing is that the learning process is all about small victories. Failing more than you succeed can get rather discouraging at times, but that's what practice is for! Thanks ~Theunis Myburg
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