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Found 37 results

  1. michael cross

    Kwaiken/tanto nearly done

    Nearly finished with the rail clip tanto. Been a fun build utilising some new techniques and materials. The blade was a practice piece that turned out quite nice so I had to finish it lol. The fittings are made of salvaged copper pipe that I cut into sheets and hammered to shape. The fuchi and kashira are both one solid piece, no soldering. The materials used include a mokume tsuba, embossed leather inlay in lieu of ray skin, brazed copper habaki, copper fuchi and kashira, nylon cord, brass seppa, bamboo mekugi, handle body is a formed polymer product (experimental) and the blade is made from a rail clip.
  2. A true and accurate understanding of the past is an important step towards a good future. 温故知新 (on ko chi shin) is an expression that most directly translates to, "study the old to know the new". This blade began as a reclaimed piece of a damaged antique sword and was carefully hand forged in a charcoal fire, smoothed with files and a sen scraper, differentially hardened using traditional water quench yaki-ire, and polished by hand with natural Japanese water stones. Materials for the chisagatana style koshirae mounting include Japanese hounoki wood for the handle and scabbard, copper bus bar for the habaki, reclaimed brass from the original mount for the fuchi and kojiri, forged brass kick plate for the kashira and seppa, black lacquered samegawa and kangaroo leather for the tsuka, lacquered steel for the mekugi, buffalo horn for the koiguchi and kurikata, and an iron spike salvaged from thirty feet under the Pacific for the tsuba. The saya is finished with ishime-ji (stone surface) made from natural urushi lacquer and tea leaves, the kurikata was carved from reclaimed horn button rescued from a vintage coat, and the sageo cord comes from an outdoor antique market in Kyoto. Specifications 長さ/刃長 Nagasa: 11 sun 3 bu (341mm) 元幅 Motohaba: 8 bu 5 rin (25.5mm) 重ね/元重 Motokasane: 1 bu 5 rin (4.2mm) 反り Sori: uchizori 中心/茎 Nakago: 3 sun 6 bu (109mm) 柄長 Tsuka: 4 sun 5 rin (123mm) 拵全長 Koshirae: 18 sun (545mm) 形 Katachi: hira-zukuri, iori-mune 刃文 Hamon: hoso suguha 帽子/鋩子 Boshi: yakitsume 中心/茎 Nakago: futsu, suriage, one mekugi-ana, mumei 銘 Mei: mumei 拵 Koshirae: chisagatana, issaku 3.03022 cm = 0.1 shaku(尺) = 1 sun(寸) = 10 bu(分) = 100 rin(厘) More photos and info: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/on-ko-chi-shin-tanto/
  3. Michal Plezia

    [WIP] Tanto style blade

    Hello, I want to share my new project. It will be a tanto style knife. I am not an expert in Japanese blades, only basic knowledge. However, I like the aesthetics and elegant design of those weapons so I decided to make one myself. I hope that real experts won't have a heart attack after seeing my version The blade is forged from NCV1 steel. Differential hardening was successful- the edge is hard and the spine is much much softer. I hope there will be a hamon visible.
  4. Grant Saxman

    The Yuugure Kotanto

    This is the second installation in my series of themed tanto, The Yuugure Kotanto. Here's the story: Yuugure means dusk or twilight, and this is what I tried to model the blade after. The saya has a dark black, ishimeji (or "stone") finish with blackened and brushed copper cladding. It reminds me of the night sky when the last orangey hues of the sunset are just beginning to fade away. The copper can appear very dark black or a bright orange depending on the angle it is viewed at, this coupled with the rough texture of the ishimeji creates a really interesting aesthetic. The habaki, seppa, fuchi, and kashira are all blackened and brushed copper, giving them a dusky, aged feel. The tsuka has a white samegawa wrap and was lacquered over with natural urushi. After the lacquer cured, I lightly sanded the nodes of the samegawa so that it looks like little white stars are peeking out from the black background. I would like to add that the kings node is featured on this cut of same! The entire blade is secured within the tsuka with a single, dark katalox mekugi. The blade itself has a wispy hitatsura hamon with some excellent activity. The mounted blade can be displayed on the dark black, matching wenge stand. The stand is all made from the same cut of wenge, so the color and grain pattern match throughout the stand. Also included is a small wenge mallet and a tapered brass pin for knocking out the mekugi and dismounting the blade. Some info on the blade: OAL: 9" from the kashira to tip of the kissaki Saya + Tsuka dimensions: 10"x7/8"x1.75" Blade Width: 1.3" at widest point Blade Thickness: 1/8" at the munemachi with a distal taper to the end of the kissaki Hamon: Hitatsura with great activity Blade Polish: Light etch mirror polished to 2000 Mountings: Habaki, Seppa, Fuchi, Kashira, Tsuka, Saya, Mekugi Mounting Materials: Walnut, Katalox, Copper, Samegawa, Urushi, Iron Oxides Blade Material: 1095 with a differential quench in brine The blade has a single katalox mekugi and can be completely dismounted for easy maintenance and sharpening. The blade has been honed to 6000 grit on waterstones and is very sharp. I'm asking $SOLD for it and it ships free in the contig. U.S. First to ask gets it, shoot me an email at YozakuraForge@gmail.com or PM I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you all have and would love to see your comments on the blade Thanks for looking -Grant
  5. Walter Sorrells

    Tanto forged from Gun Barrel

    Haven't posted on here in several years, but I thought this might be a fun blade to jump back on here with. This tanto was made from an Enfield Mark III barrel with a mild steel core forge welded into it. The idea was to mimic the kobuse forge welding scheme used in many Japanese swords. It was kind of an interesting process getting the hot core down the barrel during welding. If I did it over again, I might have done a few things differently in the forge welding process, but it seemed to work out okay. I did a video on my Youtube channel. I can add the link if anybody's interested in seeing it.
  6. Hi All, My first knife was not too good (tried to make from stainless, screwed up HT), but my second one I'm quite proud of. Made by stock removal from an old file (the one I dulled filing stainless....), using only hand tools, except for drilling the two holes in the handle. No Jigs used, mostly filing by hand (and eye) and using grindstones from my lansky-set to smooth the surfaces. HT done in purposebuilt charcoal forge from bricks, quench in sunflower oil. For my next one I hope to start with a bit of forging before I start the filing. video of het treat: 22222625_1617613648262066_7814047959703617536_n.mp4
  7. DaveJ

    Aikuchi Tanto Koshirae

    Seeing as it has been awhile, here is a recent custom koshirae for a small antique tanto blade belonging to a client. Crimson lacquered samegawa handle, fukiurushi horn fittings, a silver mekugi, and polished black lacquer scabbard in a classical aikuchi style. Materials for the custom red and black aikuchi style koshirae mounting include lacquered samegawa over hounoki for the handle, a silver and copper mekugi, and lacquered buffalo horn fuchi, kashira, koiguchi, and kurikata. Overall length when sheathed is about 11.5″. Specifications 柄長 Tsuka: 3 sun 3 bu (100mm) 拵全長 Koshirae: 9 sun 6 bu (291mm) 拵 Koshirae: aikuchi, issaku Material: Hounoki, samegawa, reclaimed buffalo horn, reclaimed copper wire, silver, natural urushi
  8. Alex Melton

    Tanto Advice

    Hello, Recently, I have been trying to make my own tanto-style knife in the traditional form. Yesterday, I cut out the basic shape of the blade from 12" 1095 steel that is 1/4" thick. Then I refined the blank using an angle grinder and a 12" bastard file. Next, I marked my center line on the edge of the blank and proceeded to my rookie 4"x36" belt grinder. I started by grinding down to just above the thickness of the edge I want and then pulling that grind angle back until the bevel would touch the spine. At least, that was my plan when I ran out of grinder belts. Not wanting to give up, I headed over to my workbench and began to work with the 12" file. Man that is tiring work! Today, I finished (or at least I think) filing the bevels down to almost proper hira zukuri geometry. I also filed the spine of the blade to the pointed geometry it has. Some questions still remain though. How do I make sure that the convex geometry (the niku I think it's called) I filed is the same on both sides? Also, do you have any tips for the heat treat? I plan on doing a hamon (my first :D) and quenching the steel in some warm/hot canola oil. I know you experts might cringe at my rookie work, but I strongly support any criticism. If this turns out to be a failure it will most certainly be a learning experience. Thanks!
  9. D.whitla

    Large tanto wip

    I was originally going for a wakizashi but metal wasnt playing nice with the extra length so back in the forge and straightened it out and shortened the blade for a long tanto. Forgot to take pics of forging process but pretty simple. This is it after final shaping of blade and filing out dents and Knicks. Tomorrow begins the terribly slow process of filing in the edge and fattening up that tang and hopefully get started on sanding the blade.
  10. Grant Saxman

    The Autumn Grove Kotanto

    This is the first installment in my series of themed tanto, The Autumn Grove Kotanto. My inspiration for this blade came in the form of the natural beauty of the forest and the changing colors of the leaves during fall. Drawing on the form of the mighty oak, this blade features a walnut shirasaya with cocobolo spacers that brings to mind the strength and stature of a full grown tree. The copper habaki has a traditional patina created by simmering in a hot niage solution. The speckled, rusty plum patina that the habaki takes on is reminiscent of vivid orange and brown leaves floating down amid the brisk autumn air. The blade itself has a simple yet elegant hamon composed of many ko-gunome waves. The hamon and blade were polished with natural hazuya and jizuya stones giving the hamon a very subtle and natural appearance. OAL: 8.5" from the back of the tsuka to the tip of the blade Shirasaya dimensions: 9.5"x1.8"x.85" Blade width: 1.33" at its widest point Blade Thickness: 1/4" at the munemachi with a distal taper to the end of the kissaki Hamon: Ko-Gunome waves Blade polish: Hybrid polish with hazuya and jizuya stones Mountings: Habaki, Tsuka, Saya, Mekugi Mounting Materials: Walnut, Cocobolo, Wenge, Copper Blade Material: W2 with a differential quench in brine The blade has a single wenge mekugi and can be completely dismounted for easy maintenance and sharpening. I wish I could do the hamon justice with my pictures, but I guess I am just a really lousy photographer haha... It didn't fully show up in all the pictures, but take my word for it, it's there. I'm asking $950 USD OBO for it and it ships free in the US. First to ask gets it, shoot me an email at YozakuraForge@gmail.com or PM I'll be glad to answer any questions you have and would love to see your comments on the blade. Thanks for looking -Grant
  11. TheoRockNazz

    LEGO tanto

    San mai of wrought iron shell with 15N20 and 1095 cutting edge. Handle window contains LEGO bricks tumbled at random angles before being sanded down to show their cross-sections. Black cotton ito with 3d printed cast brass menuki. I've been having a lot of fun with these window knives, and have another half dozen in the works.
  12. this is the tanto-sized version of the mountain kotanto pattern... Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer. About the Tools for Satoyama Project (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama) The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning. The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing. About the Mountain Tanto (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/04/making-a-mountain-tanto) The wider profile of the mountain style tanto is inspired by a kamakura sword and has a more deeply curved tip (fukura-tsuku) and shorter drop point. The simple and humble mounting style is inspired by the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands. Project Overview Video
  13. ...this project has been a long time coming but is finally off the ground...some of the background and concept: Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer. About the Tools for Satoyama Project (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama) The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning. The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing. A charcoal forged blade, water quenched with clay, sharpened with waterstones, and finished simply and humbly in the age-old style of farm and foresting tools used in managing satoyama, the borderlands between village and wilds. Project Overview Video (more on the process: bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=34021) Making the Mountain Kotanto: bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=34021 Making the Mountain Tanto: bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=34026 Design a Knife: islandblacksmith.ca/design-your-own-knife-tools-for-satoyama
  14. JeffFogleboch

    Shobu Zukuri Tanto W/Shirasaya

    Hey guys I just finished the shobu zukuri tanto up. It is forged from W1 round bar, the Habaki is copper and the shirasaya is basswood with an African Blackwood mekugi. I have learned a lot in making this and had a blast. I'm asking $350 please message me if you are interested! Thanks -Jeff
  15. JeffFogleboch

    Shobu Zukuri Tanto WIP

    Hey guys just wanted to share what I have been working on. Forged from 5/8" round W1 With a blade of around 6". Blade style is show zukuri. I know tango are generally Hirazukuri but I wanted to change it up a bit. Please tell me what you think and feel free to critique. The blade is in its rough filed state. I also want to mention that I have not started shaping the tang yet. Thanks for checking it out!
  16. Hello, everyone! Long time no post--I imagine most of the folks on here won't even remember me, these days . After forging my first knife under the guidance of Tai Goo about 7 years ago, I visited a couple local bladesmiths to help me learn a bit more, but after that, I dove into leatherworking because I was living in apartments and couldn't set up my own forge. Now, though, I have a house, so I built a forge and got myself a fairly wimpy little old anvil. Probably about 5 years ago, now, I visited Cris Anderson with a bar of 1084FG and a plan to make a tanto, and he helped me shape the tip and get a bevel started, which is what you can see in this image: Now that I have my own set up, I was excited to finally get back to work on it! I still have more to do, but here it is with a base bevel down the entire length: Right now, most of the edge is about nickel-thickness, or a little thicker, so I still have some thinning to do on the edge. There is also a bit of a twist at the tang, but I can fix that (I think ): I'm not really going for a fully traditional tanto with this project, but it's a fun thing to play with. When I put the bevel in, it curved quite a bit, as you would expect, and I took about half the curve out of it with a chunk of wood, but I wasn't sure how much to take out of it, at this point. I was planning to try claying it up and doing a differential hardening, despite the fact that 1084FG doesn't take a hamon all that well, and as I understand it, quenching in oil (which is my plan) will have a tendency to cause negative sori and straighten the blade out. With that in mind, I left some curve in it, but maybe my thought process is off? In any case, once I thin the bevels out to where I want them, and take the twist out, I plan to take it to the belt grinder to clean it up a little bit, but I want to get the majority of the shaping done with the hammer, if it all possible. Then, it'll be on to hardening and tempering, a little sanding/polishing/sharpening, and a simple wooden tsuka and saya.
  17. The seed that began this project was the question of what would result if a historical Japanese knife maker working at a time when exposure to the west was very limited was asked to create a western style knife based only on a description. The resulting piece retains the lines and techniques that would have been familiar to the maker, but incorporates the most obvious elements of the foreign style which would have been transmitted in that description. The wide guard and hardwood handle would have been immediately recognizable to a western traveler, but the construction of the scabbard and other fittings are quite eastern. In viewing the final work, it seems that this particular fusion of eras and origins have unintentionally captured many of the influences normally associated with, dare I say it, the steampunk genre... "When we attempt to adapt a new style or design that is foreign to us, we tend to work from our own frame of reference, relying heavily on what we know as a foundation. The most obvious elements that differ from the familiar are the ones that tend to get emphasized and filtered through our own paradigm, often to the point of caricature. Similar to examples of pre-photographic illustrations of strange new animals from other lands, the interpretation is sometimes quite unlike the actual subject." more here: islandblacksmith.ca/2015/12/touzai-fusion-tanto/
  18. JeffFogleboch

    Finally done

    Finally dinished this tanto...I reworked the polish and it looks so much nicer now.
  19. JeffFogleboch

    Critique my tanto

    Hey guys their tanto is nearly finished...the only thing I need to food run put the lacquer. If you guys could give me any pointers on how to make it better I would appreciate it! Steel is W2 the motohaba is a hair over an 1"the nagasa is about 8.5", saya is curly walnut with glooss lacquer and the mekugi is antler
  20. JeffFogleboch

    Help me determine mekugi ana location

    Hey guys as you know I am working on a shirasaya for the tango I forged. I was wondering how the location of the mekugi ana is determined. I understand that it should be located on the 2nd diamond but I am first making a shirasaya and then full mounts. It will be a while before I gather enough cash to purchase the required materials so I don't understand how to determine the location of the hole. Can I use a regular drill bit or is a tapered one preferred? If so what size and where can I buy it? Thanks. -Jeff
  21. So I have been out of sorts as of late and I have been feeling wore out from working on customer blades and just trying to be happy about what I do. So I decided to do my first, what I want to call a true Japanese katana using no mechanical means at all. So here is the first in a series of videos on the forging of my first Oroshigane / Tamahagane Katana the billet was made for me by Ilya of the Baltimore Knife Works thanks Ilya Forging the Sunobe https://youtu.be/XbYwVvc9g_A Forging the Nakago https://youtu.be/YtkFOLJVmcQ Forging the Mune Part 1 https://youtu.be/2iFweAXn0Tk Part 2 https://youtu.be/JTCZCPc3bj0 Part 3 https://youtu.be/hQbmxIweYY4 Part 4 https://youtu.be/6v-bBIjIirE
  22. JeffFogleboch

    W2 tanto test etch

    Hey guys I hear treated this tanto last night and decided to give it a test etch before I grind it down. Still need to do a little straightening and the hamon runs off very close to the machi but overall I'm stunned. Tell me what you think and feel free to critique!
  23. It has been awhile since I had photo documentation of a whole knife from start to finish, so I wrote this freshly minted minimalist kotanto project up as an exploration of implementing nihonto geometry and construction into a fusion style edc/outdoor knife. "The Japanese swordsmithing tradition has been in place for generations and many of the design elements have been tested and refined for centuries. With careful study and practice, this can be a solid foundation for today's bladesmiths and knifemakers to build their work upon." Here is where we are headed... ...hang on!
  24. JeffFogleboch

    First tanto

    hey guys this is the first time i have tried a traditional japanese style blade. It is made from 1075 steel from Aldo. Please tell me what you think and critique and give me suggestions so I can continue to improve! Also if anyone knows what to call this hamon that would be appreciated as well! Thanks. -Jeff
  25. Mathew Kinmond

    "Knaxe"

    walnut scales, copper pins wth high test epoxy, 1095 blade steel with wedge grind, kept it slightly rustic so that it wuld have charicter, full tang, and first attempt at a sellable knife.
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