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Found 7 results

  1. I am buying medieval steel make cleaning and usually recreate Viking style in handles... Few fresh items.
  2. Hi! Another sword finished This is based on Petersen's type C, not precisely like in a diagram, but I bet it wouldn't had looked odd in 9th century The blade is NZ3 tool steel (60WCrV8), guards and pommel are wrought iron with simple brass inlay. Handle of wood and leather. Total lenght is 975mm (38.4") blade lenght is 815mm (32"), width is 50mm (2"), Handle 111mm (4.37"). It weights 1170g (2.58lb) with a PoB at 187mm (7.36) from crossguard. It is blunt for reenacting battles and training.
  3. Hi All. Recently I was really lucky to finish a replica of a sword found in Norway. http://secretsoftheice.com/news/2017/09/05/viking-sword/ There are some differences: My sword weights 1080g and the original was as heavy as 1203g (sic!). Blade lenght: 795mm. Blade width: 62mm. Material: spring steel 50HF, cross guard and upper guard: wrought iron. Handle: wood and leather. Inlay inscription is 36 layers pw wire - it is a customer's vision. Have no idea what that means ;-P I just forged it into a blade like an illitarate dark blacksmith The guy wanted it
  4. This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the coope
  5. Hello all, There is a question that has been nagging me for some time now. I have made a few European swords over the last few years, and I usually attach the cross guard with a small TIG bead on the underside, that is then covered by the wood scales/grip. obviously this is not historical. and not the best way to do it i know. some other ways i have found by researching this online say to slide the guard onto tang hot with the slot in the guard slightly undersized. This allows the slot to expand and fit; then cool and contract. OK, this sounds good but wont the heat seep into the h
  6. This is a very special sword for me, as it both ends and starts the year. This was the last blade I quenched at 2016 and the first piece I finished in 2017. So it is kinda different. Forn Hrafn, or Old Raven is made to resemble a humble sword from the beginning of the ninth century Norway. This sword was made by stock removal (not forging, guys) from a piece of 1070 steel. It is heavily inspired on C10560 from Kulturhistorisk Museum from Norway. As I didn't have access to more material about this find, I used some of it's measures and invented others. As you can see on the pictures
  7. Hey all! The past few weeks I've been working pretty hard to finish my first seax and a few other projects, among them a viking sword inspired by the Svere sword, as seen in Ian Pierce's Swords of the Viking Age. This is the sword in question: This is what I think of when I hear the words "Viking sword" and so I thought it would be a fitting piece to emulate. My take on this sword is in five bars and three steels. 1075, 1084, and 15n20 make up the twist bars and the edge bars alike. Without further ado here goes! Three bars forged out and ready for weldi
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