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  1. Back to some projects that were on pause for a few months while I relocated my workshop...here's the first: The inome (pronounced “ee-no-may”, 猪の目, eye of the boar) name comes from the pierced heart-shape designs on the decorative o-seppa (washers) on either side of the tsuba (handguard). This lovely motif is ubiquitous in Japan, seen often in architecture, furniture, and sword mountings. In this context, the inome symbol conveys the idea of the always forward-moving wild boar of Japan’s forests and mountains, never giving up or retreating. This tanto was forged from an antique horse-d
  2. I am teaching A 6 day long falchion Class at Grizzly Ironworks in Phoenix this week. First day in in the books and the students all have blades forged to shape from 1084. I managed to demo or have examples of several styles of falchion.. tomorrow we grind in preparation for heat treating!. MP Q
  3. Two little Damascus hidden Tang knives. Ready for fittings and handles
  4. Thought i would start a WIP on my next project, a bird and trout hunting knife. First up is the design process. I wanted something that would come in under 250mm (10") total length, and be nice in the hand and easy to control for skinning or delicate work. Its going to be used for hunting and fishing here in Zim, so should be able to fillet a bream (Oreochromis niloticus) which can have quite a deep body on a big one, and be tough enough to slit the throat of a thrashing wildebeest that my uncles .375 messed up on... again. The steel used in going to be old leaf spring, from the sa
  5. When I'm making something I've never made before I start out with plain bar stock until I get all the forging and shaping right. I started with damascus, since I had a billet left over from last year, but I realized that I would need to figure out some forging tricks and make some tools to reproduce the complex shape of pesh kabz. The pesh kabz is an Indo-Persian blade made to pierce chain mail. It is long, can be straight, curved or decurve/recurve. It has a very strong point that widens to open up the links of chain mail. They have a T-shaped spine for rigidity, and a thick edge for stren
  6. Hello fellows, Here I will record my efforts to create my first sword. This project started about two years ago when I managed to get a hold of a rather big piece of wootz made by Peter Swarz-Burt of Dragon's Breath Forge in Connecticut. Fun story, as I was in talks with Peter over email to buy some wootz he suddenly dissapeared to Hawaii, so I had to wait for the wootz a bit longer. A few months later I was watching the first season of Forged in Fire and I though "Hey that name looks familiar...". It was Peter!! [spolier] He won, and happily proclaimed that he was gonna take his wif
  7. I have one for you guys: How much distal taper do you think I need for proper geometry on this blade? It's 3/16 thick at the ricasso and the blade is 4" long. Draw filing is exhausting and I wouldn't want to have a weird geometry at the end :/ As you can see I tapered the spine. This is fun Thank you!
  8. Hello! Yesterday I started new project - pattern welded pipehawk. It is my second attempt to forge pipehawk. I started with a sketch with dimentions: And then I cut pieces of steel for billet, one were made out of 50HF spring steel and S235 low carbon steel, and second out of 50HF and NCV1, Billets ready for forge welding, the bigger one have 30 layers and 1640 gram of weight, smaller one has 20 layers and 888 grams of weight. Few pictures of forging using power hammer, fluxing and heating up. Billets ready for grinding, cuttin
  9. This is a thread on a knife that has been designed after extensive testing of a great number of production and semi production knives for the safari hunter. It will not be used to skin lots of animals as the skinning staff will do that but it has to be able to do so. It would be best if I post the important parts of the thread that lead to this series of knives so you will have the background understanding for the design concept for both the knife and the sheath. A reasonably long test report but it sets the paremeters for the eventual design I will make up for aproval. I have C&P the
  10. Today was a good day. I took my class on a spontaneous field trip. Our quest, to locate and harvest some bog iron ore was a big success. All thanks to a fellow smith Karmo who provided us a quest map with location markers and an example of the desired loot. As a side bonus we found 50+kg of railroad memorabilia, that will all be forged into something fun and useful. Next we need to build a pair of bellows. Any suggestions on how best to prep the ore for the smelt?
  11. On a hunting forum the guys had seen a couple of my knife projects and it was sugested that a group buy might be in order so this is the result with them all profiled with coarse belt today. Nine round butt skinners on top with a pair of boys knives, 2 light hunters, a reverse angled hunter skinner, 2 wapiti hunters and 3 boners on the bottom row. May get the egdes all tidied up with fine belts tomorrow and start cleaning up the faces.
  12. Good morrow, fellow smiths. I present for your consideration my first attempt at a small (one-handed) battle axe in the Viking mode. If I did my research right, this should be something like a Petersen type C axe, though I'm not going to try to claim historical accuracy on this one because the eye shape is a tomahawk-style teardrop, and because it's made of one solid chunk of steel. I documented the whole process so that those of you who know more than I do can critique it, and hopefully it will of value to those of you who are looking to get into axe-making. Anyway, without further ado, t
  13. Hello all, I have been studying most aspects of Katana making for about 8 years now, and have been using them as a martial artist long before that. I have just now got the guts to try my hand, and as I attained so much valuable information from this forum I figured it was the least I could do to give a little back by documenting my progress here. First I would like to show a process I've used to analyze swords digitally. I use Google Sketchup to do this. I import images (finding good images is half the battle) after turning on high resolution in sketchup, then scale it to size based of
  14. working away at things...but time to emerge from the shop for a few minutes and post... Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer. About the Tools for Satoyama
  15. Hi! I want to show You my current project, it is an ulfberht sword blade, welded from 4 pieces, 2 turned 18-layers bars(50HF and S235 stell) and 2 blades(50HF steel). At the moment the blade is fully welded and place for inscription is chiseled(2 days of chiseling, the grooves are 3mm wide and 4mm deep) Tomorrow I'm starting to weld a bar for inscription. After matching the bar inside the grooves and welding it, it is time for forging edges and fuller. It is the hardest part for me, previously I failed at this point. The blade delaminated on edges a little after forging the fuller on die
  16. Just forged this beast up from a chunk of leaf spring, this photo is just after profile grinding. I kind of made this on a whim, I started with a drop point camp knife in mind but it just evolved into this. I do not currently have a plan for the level of polish, fittings or handle so I am up to your suggestions. Thanks for the help all
  17. I'm finally starting on my first completely custom Longsword that hasn't been made from scrap and spare parts from the shop. Haven't quite gotten around to posting many of my past works yet, so I'll start with my current build! Starting off, the design of this sword is pretty sizable.I am also loosely basing it off of an Oakeshott type XX. At 46"(116.64cm) in overall length, it'll have quite the reach. The blade will be 36" (91.44cm) from tip to shoulders. It will be made from stock removal of a pre-tempered 5160 blank, cut to profile.The guard and pommel are pretty hefty. Made from a mild
  18. Double Twist Seax I’ve been sneaking in some morning practice before work this week. So far this week I was able to prep some previously forged out 10 layers stacks. I twisted two 8 inch bars and stacked them between some wrought iron from old wagon wheels. Then I welded those bars with the 1095 edge bar together with a handle for ease of forging. Next I forge welded that whole set together. That’s a fun and tricky process. The hard part is keeping the temperature consistent throughout the whole piece since the wrought iron needs to be worked at a temperature where carbon steel can burn up
  19. Willie

    1095

    1095, 1/4" thick, distal taper and a LONG way to go before the blade is finished. Going to be a threaded through tang, cable mokume guard and pommel. Handle material is spalted hickory.
  20. Hi ! During summer I build a new workshop, made a new power hammer and now I start a new project, Polish saber, karabela type. I decided to made it from damascus steel, I choose 1045 and ncv1 steel, 3 billets, 18 layers each, 450 g. weight. After the first weld: Heating to the welding temperature in my gas-forge: And after forging on the power hammer: After forging I use the stell rolling mill to get flat surface and equal thickness on the lenght: 3 billets after forging: After grinding and forging the weight get loss from 1350 to 1083 gram. Each bi
  21. Today I started my KITH project, I'm still working on the actual design for the build, but figured I should start my billet now... Yep, all hands in, (my own two that is) making a pattern weld by hand hammer for this! Starting with four layers of 1095, and three of 15N20, for a seven layer first weld. Here goes nothing!!!
  22. Cross y'all's fingers.....
  23. Hi guys, so just for something completely new on here, i thought i'd have a go at making a seax i'm aiming for something reasonably accurate, but since i haven't done all that much research on them we'll see how it goes. my plan is to finish it to look like a well aged piece with lots of pitting and worn high spots, so i'm not too worried that there's scale and hammer marks. here is the blade forged from leaf spring annealed, rough ground, and carved into with a sharpened concrete nail (far from an ideal graver) on top of concept sketch view of spine trying to show tapers
  24. So I started a tanto the other day, and included it in a post. I also promised to keep it updated, so this is where I'll do that. Started with a Diamond file, and it turns out that files are just about the perfect stock to start a tanto with. It should be noted that my process for this is primarily stock removal, as I'm a lot more competent in my abilities to create symmetrical blades this way than forging. Some of the profile as well as a distal taper were forged in, but mostly it's stock removal. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the file before I started working. I guess a file's
  25. So, I got in the forge today and felt a little bit froggy. So I picked up a rather large piece of 1075 that I had lying around and decided that I saw a langsaex hidden inside. Only one picture so far, and a concept sketch will come a little bit later because I haven't quite decided what to do with the hilt. I just picked up the steel and said "what the hell, let's make a sword." As is fairly typical with my projects, the planning will come after the project has begun. I'll be doing some research tonight, and may have some concept sketches by tomorrow. The reason I'm calling it a bastard saex i
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