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Found 10 results

  1. For many years now I was business partners with Peter Swarz-Burt and watched him making wootz . I learned a ton from him over the years. Well Peter left the shop last June,moved to HI infact. After peter left I got an order for a wootz knife . There were a few bars laying around I could use so I took the job.. the bars failed .. so I began my dissent into wootz making . This is the first piece completed from My wootz
  2. Hello fellows, Here I will record my efforts to create my first sword. This project started about two years ago when I managed to get a hold of a rather big piece of wootz made by Peter Swarz-Burt of Dragon's Breath Forge in Connecticut. Fun story, as I was in talks with Peter over email to buy some wootz he suddenly dissapeared to Hawaii, so I had to wait for the wootz a bit longer. A few months later I was watching the first season of Forged in Fire and I though "Hey that name looks familiar...". It was Peter!! [spolier] He won, and happily proclaimed that he was gonna take his wife to Hawaii for the price money! Really cool to see these amazing smiths compete in their craft. Don't worry about the extra wait Peter, it only took me two years to gather the courage to forge the wootz! No stress! I'm a very mediocre smith, kind of a newbie accually. So I wanted a simple shape. First I wanted to do a single edged viking, Norwegian style, but changed it to a proper double edged sword with almost parallell edges and a rounded tip. Slap on a very Norwegian type H hilt and call it a day. Part I: Making guard and pommel I made these parts almost two years ago and only recorded the progress using a crappy old iPhone 3 camera, so please excuse this poor attempt at photography. The guard and pommel is made from a big chunk of cast grey iron. I shaped it with simple tools; hacksaw and files. I did the rough cut with a bandsaw at my work. Slowly the shape gets closer and closer. This material is quite easy to file and saw because the graphite in it lubricates, so that helps, but the massive size is something new to me. Pommel and guard are shaped and boiled in concentrated lemon juice for 20 min to reveal the fantastic texture of grey iron. Grey iron is cast iron with enough carbon to have graphite crystals in the structure (3-4% carbon). But the pommel needs some bling bling and brass is flash! I did copper inlays by filing with a needle file with lenticular cross section and then cutting in overhangs with knife and hammer. Hammer in copper like so. Sorry about the photo. Finished pommel. But i dipped it in ferric chloride and I don't like the surface. I'm gonna re-polish the surface and do a new finish by boiling in lemon juice, like the picture above. Next up will be forging the blade of wootz and rough shaping with angle grinder. I need to edit and select some photos first. Cheers!
  3. Hello All! It has been quite a few years since I have been involved in the Wootz community. Not due to lack of interest, but due to health and not having an area to work. From glancing around the pages, it seems that there has been quite a lot of experimentation from all over the world, with some very nice looking results. I am gearing up to do a lecture and demonstration over here in Australia for the guild on Wootz production, and was thinking I would like to take the pulse, so to speak, of Wootz making around the world. If you all don't mind could we: 1. Make a list Wootz makers in the US and internationally (will all wootz makers put their hands up please...LOL) (please link to a website if you have one) This is ONLY those who smelt their own wootz and make knives from them. 2. Make a simple survey of the current methods of smelting, ingredients, and forging of wootz (times and temperatures etc) Please try to keep things as simple and as short as possible. Also please try to not post a name or method that has already been listed. I hope this will be of help to the whole wootz making community and is something that it would be good to regularly update. Happy forging, Tim.
  4. Hello everyone. I am about to make a first attempt at Wootz/pulad/bulat...ect, and I am curious as to what type of cast iron I should be looking for. Mainly the tech specs for the silicon in it. I know that C should be between 3-5 wt% but the Si content is something I have no Idea about. The lowest I have found (looking around so some to buy online still) so far is between 1.8-2.25 wt%, which seems very high to me. Any suggestions on where to buy it from or what type specifically (like gray 40) would be great. issue i am having is the small order that i would need. Think their could be a foundry somewhere near me that I could call as well. Anyway thanks in advance Chris
  5. Pishqabz 311mm Blade: 188/38mm 5,5/3mm Wootz. Handle: Moosehorn, Brass, Mosaic pins, Moonstone, Padouk. One way how to attach the handle to the blade. Fit parts and fill with epoxy. Janne Kruunari Finlad
  6. Hello All, I will be doing a wootz making and forging demo at Tunnel Mill near Rochester, MN later this month. http://tunnelmillcrafts.com/Calendar/Calendar.htm Should be a good time over several days should you have the time. I heard they have a 500 weight Little Giant on hand...I intend to see her eat...so there may be a large pattern-welding session some night as well if they let me. Yours, Ric
  7. The following knife is an experiment of sorts. It's the first blade I have forged from our Wootz-ish crucible steel (~1.7%C?) and meant to resemble a small seax. The ring-and-dot motif on bone is reminiscent of Viking-age bone decoration, although the motif is much older and common to many different cultures. The bolster is a simple copper plate that I drifted to the shape of the tang. The handle is scavenged ironwood from a flooring job. Unfortunately, I messed up the heat treat on the knife. Tempering at 500F for an hour left the blade very brittle and not suited for anything but kitchen duty. I wonder what a proper tempering temperature for Wootz-ish knife might be. For the next one, I will try 800F and see how that goes. I would also like some suggestions on handle decoration. For my taste it is too unadorned, but the ironwood is very hard and brittle. I had a hard time chiseling out even the tang. Blade Length: 7 1/4in Blade Width: 1 5/8in Handle Length: 6 7/8in Let me know what you think, Niels.
  8. Photos of this weeks class We prepared the raw material Monday and then made six ingots Tuesday. Today they forged the ingots....maybe I should have had more than one anvil for them to use? Ric
  9. so since I am on holiday I started a redo on my wootzsmelter, after working in the garden. It is my old smelter, made from an 11kg gasbottle, following a design I got from Achim Wirtz here in Germany it was a bit "nifty" as Niko once said, very narrow for an A1 crucible, so I want it to be bigger in the "heatroom" which should give me less trouble with the heat for the melts for that I took out some of the casting - had to hammer it out with some effort - finding that I made the walling very thick, some pieces where thicker than three - four centimeters out came over 11kg, much more than I thought the wool is still in good shape, so that can stay, the bottom is still ok and the pipe gives a tangential flame to the bottom of the crucible, there is anough space to use some stands, too I found an old bottle that will make for the inside, it is big enough to give the space for my crucibles (Achim said: a double-magnum redwine bottle will do the trick, too) more in the next days
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