TOBY Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 well a tutorial of sorts..... first up is to make some w's, this is a stack of eleven layers of 15n20 and C20 weld it up then turn it through 90deg(has been forged out a little) photo of fire at welding temp;) drawn out to twelve inches by about 3/8-1/2" thick sectioned out into four bits ready for the first stack said stack ready for welding all welded up - now just got to do this all over another three times after all that stacking and welding the billet is sectioned into six and stacked up ready for welding billet all welded up - this is our W's made a quick etch to show what a compressed stack of w's look like(only ground with angle grinder sorry) billet all cleaned up - VERY important to keep a reference of where everything is at All times as it is so easy to mess everything up all the way to the end of the process handle has been moved to the side and our Precious billet of w's has been hacked into nearly two with a very blunt cutter(about 4mm thick at cutting edge) handle moved again then welded it back up into one block again (make sure you do EVERYTHING at welding temperature) i diddnt have it hot enough when closing up the two sides and started to open up a weld - managed to stop it and weld it back up, but best to do it right first time! the billet has been drawn out to 7 1/2" long by 3/8" thick by 1 1/2" wide, and is now cooling on the forge floor, will give it a bit of a grind and a quick etch tomorow to see if we have destroyed a perfectely good billet of W's:O A few pic's of the billet from the last pic now etched - the billet is still a bit compressed and will spread out a bit yet when it is drawn out, but it is an example of a feather pattern now all thats left to do is to make it into something sharp 1 Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nabiul Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 That is some spectacular work, I don't suppose you use flux for the beginning weld? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwilliams Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Wow looks great, thanks for sharing your technique. Chris Chris Williams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett McCormack Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 ok that pattern is damn sexy. So organic looking! Thanks for posting this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlkilpatrick Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Thanks TOBY! I just love patterning tutorials, and that's one I was a bit vague about. Great explanation, and a beautiful billet. Please let us see what you make with it! Luke Do you smell something burning? Waaugh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walker Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Super nice!! Thanks. Matt Matt Walker https://www.youtube.com/@onedamascusmaker/videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james G. Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 WOW nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter johnsson Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Thanks Toby, This is brilliant. You told me how when we met, but my foggy brain did not take it all in. Now I am hooked. I need to see how this looks when shaped into a longer blade. Perhaps hollow ground. Great tutorial, Toby! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFogg Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Great job Toby, thank you for taking the time to post the tutorial. Could you post a picture of the tool you used to cut the stack with? Much appreciated. Don Fogg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giuseppe Maresca Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 wooow.... it looks great! Thank you very much fot the tutorial. Mourir pour des idées, c'est bien beau mais lesquelles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Longmire Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Wow! That's just too spiffy! I see it in a wavy blade like a kris...Just to get really organic-looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOBY Posted June 13, 2008 Author Share Posted June 13, 2008 Great job Toby, thank you for taking the time to post the tutorial. Could you post a picture of the tool you used to cut the stack with? Much appreciated. A picture of the cutting tool...? ah now thats a trade secret its just a bit of truck leaf spring welded onto a handle with the edge profiled a bit Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIXFOOTER Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 A picture of the cutting tool...? ah now thats a trade secret its just a bit of truck leaf spring welded onto a handle with the edge profiled a bit Finish this thing yet? Got me wanting to go out and build a forge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOBY Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 (edited) Finish this thing yet?Got me wanting to go out and build a forge not yet, this piece was for a commission and only made a 8" blade, so its sat on the shelf att. The commision was for a 9 1/2" blade - have made some more steel (tweaked the mix a bit) and roughed out the blade only so far and a rough idea of the pattern now go build a forge and have a go! Edited October 31, 2008 by TOBY Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko Hynninen Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Hi Toby, amaising work This is great tutorial...THANK YOU for the topic. I have tryed this and allways made last turn wrong way This is great topic....is it pinned all ready??? Niko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kyle Hershey Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 (edited) Damn that is a fine tutorial! I assume c20 is carlson alloy, pretty amazing stuff by the looks of the composition. When you mix it with 15n20 does that raise the overall austenization temperature, or does it even matter because there is hardly any carbon in the c20? I'm a functional greenhorn, but a greenhorn none the less. Thank you Toby! Edited June 29, 2008 by Kyle Hershey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOBY Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 I assume c20 is carlson alloy, pretty amazing stuff by the looks of the composition. When you mix it with 15n20 does that raise the overall austenization temperature, or does it even matter because there is hardly any carbon in the c20? thanks Kyle C20 is an Udderholm steel very similar to 15n20 without the nickel, same carbon content etc (somewhat like 1080) its not the carlson stainless that you are thinking of rgds TOBY Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kyle Hershey Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Thank you sir!! I apreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Stokes Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 (edited) Wow that is awesome! I'll have to try that one day when my skill catches up with my head. Edited July 9, 2008 by maolan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David B McKenzie Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 I love that pattern, but am not quite clear on some of the orientation. It looks like you weld the bar edges facing up at stages. It's a beautiful pattern, I'd love to make some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOBY Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 Hi David, the bar ends (where the pattern is) is only ever facing up when the billet is completed and is being drawn out into bar stock/knife blade oh... a pic showing the orientation of billet when hot cutting (please note- this is not what the billet above would look like if etched. the above would be a LOT more compressed and dense, its purely for example to show which way the w's go) Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David B McKenzie Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Hi David,the bar ends (where the pattern is) is only ever facing up when the billet is completed and is being drawn out into bar stock/knife blade oh... a pic showing the orientation of billet when hot cutting (please note- this is not what the billet above would look like if etched. the above would be a LOT more compressed and dense, its purely for example to show which way the w's go) Thanks Toby. I'll study the process some more. I'm an old fart and things take a while to sink in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIXFOOTER Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 OK, so I am trying to get this thing straight in my head. Uou do the first forge weld and cut it and stack the pices edge to edge right? Do this 4 times or so, this is done with the handle still welded on the end of the billet. The handle is then moved to the Bottom? of the billet and it is cut along the edges in the first pic? Great info, this has really got me thinking. thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau Erwin Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 The handle is moved to the side. I'd been trying to work it out in my head as well and the photo posted above did help. After cutting and rewelding the chisel cut, you'd move the handle to what was originally the top or bottom of the billet to draw it out. Which would have been the top of the chisel cut or the bottom of it. Least that's what I'm understanding. Beau Erwin www.ErwinKnives.com Custom knives Bcarta Composites Stabilized Woods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOBY Posted July 16, 2008 Author Share Posted July 16, 2008 (edited) The handle is moved to the side. I'd been trying to work it out in my head as well and the photo posted above did help. After cutting and rewelding the chisel cut, you'd move the handle to what was originally the top or bottom of the billet to draw it out. Which would have been the top of the chisel cut or the bottom of it. Least that's what I'm understanding. Yeh thats correct. the handle stays in the same place up to the final stack then it might have to be moved around a bit to square everything up. then moved to the side to be hot cut, then back to the end of the billet for welding shut and drawing out. a tip i learnt of Mick Maxen was to use flat bar as a handle (rather than round or square) to help remember where everything is. Edited July 16, 2008 by TOBY Regards TOBY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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