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TOBY

Feathered W's

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WOW!

 

That is amazing! :)

 

Thanks so much for taking the time to document the process!!

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Some better pics of the finished knife

(from the second billet)

IMG_5078-2large.jpg

IMG_5092large.jpg

Edited by TOBY

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Great tutorial, and a super nice blade. Thanks :

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I understand how to make the feather pattern once the Ws are formed, but I want to make sure I understand the Ws. Someone please let me know if I have this right.

 

The first welding pass squeezes the stack perpendicular to the short dimension (thickness) of the layers, like a typical starter billet for pattern welding, but after that the billet is rotated 90 degrees (as seen from the front), so that the layers are visible as "stripes" on the top and bottom of the billet. It's drawn out, cut, and restacked without changing the orientation of the billet in any way. This process is repeated several times. This creates the Ws on the ends of the billet.

 

Is that right?

Edited by Matt Bower

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Yeh thats right Matt

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Hey Toby,

Are my calculations off or does about 75-80 % of the steel you start with end up as scale and grinder droppings, for lack of a better term? Or are you able to get multiple slices off of the final billet like with your basket weave billet?

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Hi Joe,

there is some material loss, but not anything like 75 % (unless you cant measure and end up cutting a piece of a stack short :lol: - never happened to me of course ;) )

i tack weld the end of the billets as i go along and err on the side of caution when cutting up the stacks so not to have any chance of a tack weld being included in the billet.

 

you can make a "loaf" to slice up if you start off with enough material, but i was making the above for a large blade so i compressed the pattern so when it was drawn out into a single bar the pattern i wanted would emerge

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thanks for posting this i have a small (realysmall) blade out annealing right now that i cut from a bilit i worked up tonight and did the feather thing after finding this post to will see how it turned out and mabe post a pic or two if it turned out ok (had some open welds that changed the pattern a bit but i got the concept)

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Toby

Superb work on the blade & sheath!

Thanks a lot for the tutorial.

The pics and the surrounding area are so clean that it seems the billet was dry welded.

 

Did you used any mechanical method to remove the oxids from the inner surface of that "V" formed by the cut?

 

Thanks again!

 

'Salut'

 

Arno

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Hi Arno,

and thanks ....... sheath not by me - its the great work of Mr Martin Morrisey

and all my welds are done "wet" - all i did for the welding of the inner surface of the "V" was to flux the hell out of it and keep it VERY hot, and give it a good soak before drawing out

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Thank You Toby!

 

´Salut´

 

Arno

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Ands so, I've started the adventure on "W"s... Is it the right way, Toby?

 

Thanks again!

 

'Salut'

 

Arno

1st_weld__turned_90____drawn_out.JPG

2nd_weld___drawn_out.JPG

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Well, I'm still thinking and trying to figure this one out, yes I've read all of the posts for it.

 

1. Stack bar, draw it out so the different layers are facing upward.

2. Cut bar into four sections, stack on top of each other. - this is the one i don't understand, cuz I saw somewhere that you rotated it 90 degress.

3. Weld, draw out, cut into six pieces.

4. Weld, V cut, weld together.

5. Draw out so that the V is facing upwards.

 

Is that right?

 

Because step two is not very clear from the pictures, at least when someone said you rotate the 4 pieces 90 degrees, that's when I got confused.

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arno...i dont think thats a feathered W like what Toby made...but it sure looks cool!

 

i must have read this thread 20 times and i love just checking it out for the pictures, that really is an amazing pattern and blade that you have made there. i need to get back out to the forge and keep working on my hammer control and smithing skills so maybe ill that a shot at some point. a question about making damascus though. how long does it take you? i am trying to make a billet of just random pattern and it seems to take forever..even when im swinging the 12 lb sledge with my dad holding the billet

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Lamontagne,

I think the variantions on "W"s depend on the method of forge welding. Toby probably used his power hammer more than press. I used only press, so that the deformation on layers are more intense just on first weld (i guess). Also, I observed that if your starting steel sheet are thin, the less welding steps will be necessary. So, take a look what occured after the 3rd weld from starting. In my work condition (23 layers of alternate 2mm 1065/15N20), I´ll stop the next 'w' on 2nd weld before forming the cube for the "V" cut, otherwise the feather will be excessively thin.

 

John,

I don´t know if your question was to Toby or to me. Anyway, the link below will be useful.

 

http://books.google.com.br/books?id=muAAin...result#PPA72,M1

 

Many thanks to Mr. Rick Dunkerley, Mr. Don Fogg (I bought the book), and Google to save me from any copyright problem!!

3rd_weld___drawn_out.JPG

Edited by Arno Gunther

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John,

I don´t know if your question was to Toby or to me. Anyway, the link below will be useful.

 

http://books.google.com.br/books?id=muAAin...result#PPA72,M1

 

Many thanks to Mr. Rick Dunkerley, Mr. Don Fogg (I bought the book), and Google to save me from any copyright problem!!

 

What a 'p.o.s'!!! In less than one hour "Mr. Google Afraid" suppressed the pages from the book I referred above!

No problem. I´ll prepare, if anyone wants, a free hand sketch of my own recipe...

 

( I've got that abject google mechanism and sure will use it in the future!)

Edited by Arno Gunther

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