Tang threading

[shinobituazon]

I've always wondered how those tang ends were made into round rods in preparation for threading.

 

I can forge and file them to shape, but that would not make a precision round rod.

 

Those of you familiar with Mr. Karl Andersen's fabulous take downs should know what I mean.

 

 

Does it really need to be a perfect rod?

 

Or would the threading die do that during threading?

 

Thanks in advance for the replies.

 

 

-shinobi

[MrBaz]

I could be wrong on this.

It's possible that it was forged from roundstock to begin with.

 

Also, it doesn't have to be a perfect precision round. Just forge it close enough then thread it. You should have plenty of meat on there that will allow the pommel to catch.

[B. Norris]

The end does not have to be perfectly round to work. I've seen knives done that were just flat with the thread on the edges. That being said it is easier if the tang is round. The easiest way to do that is with some kind of top and bottom die setup. The threading die will take small irregularities out as it goes but, it is much harder to get the thread started and a bit dicey as you go. Takes quite a bit of patience, a little bit forward, back a bit, cut a little more, back up a bit, forward some. You get the idea. Oh yes, be sure to use cutting fluid. Do not even think about doing it dry!

 

~Bruce~

[B. Norris]

One more thing... An alternative way to do this is to take some allthread, or a spare bolt, and silver braze it to the tang. It can be faster than cutting the threads and is just as strong as a solid tang.

 

~Bruce~

[cdent]

I've only done it a few times, but it worked fine to forge fairly close. Then, rotate the tang against a coarse belt. I made up a little wood push block with a small 'v' in it. Goes very quick. Can't remember where I got the original idea from.

 

Good luck, Craig

[KPeacock]

Sorry to brink up an old post, but I enjoy digging through the archives to pick up tips and tricks.

 

Is there any reason to avoid welding threaded stock to the tang? It's been about 15 years since I brazed anything, but I MIG weld on a daily basis. I can see any reason why this wouldn't work considering the weld will be hidden by the handle material.

 

Thanks,

 

Kris

[B. Norris]

Is there any reason to avoid welding threaded stock to the tang? It's been about 15 years since I brazed anything, but I MIG weld on a daily basis. I can see any reason why this wouldn't work considering the weld will be hidden by the handle material.

No reason not to if you are confident in your abilities and materials. Keep in mind this is high carbon steel, at least one half of it that is. You may want to preheat the tang before welding and definitely temper it well after you are done. The larger the surface area of the joint the stronger it will be. I have seen these done where the end of the tang is cut off on a long angle and also, where it is cut in a "V" shape. Although this is hidden by the handle material, it is a mark of good craftsmanship to treat this the same as any other part of the knife. You never know what a customer may do with their knife and if they do get a look at the tang you want to make a good impression. It could mean the difference between, "This is a piece of junk. I'm never buying from this guy again!" and "Yeah. I broke it but, it was my fault for being stupid and this thing is put together really well."

 

~Bruce~

[Ken Kelley]

HMMMM...forge the end round, eh? I think I will try making a set of dies for my mini-press to see if I can make a tang round. Thanks for dragging this thread back out into the light. Gives me all sorts of ideas.

 

K

[KPeacock]

I went ahead and welded some threaded stock to the tang. I cut a rectangular notch out of the tang so that the threaded stock would fit nicely into it. I then welded it all the way around the joint and ground the weld smooth. I'm not worried about structural integrity too much. The handle will be secured fore and aft by the end plate of the handle, I'll also be using brass pins. To top that off, the handle will be epoxied to the tang. Pops is getting up there in years, so it won;t take a whole lot of craftsmanship to make it outlast him. I'd like it to be around for my kids and theirs after that.