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Hawks

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Hi guys,

this is my first attemp at forging hawks.

the steel bar is a hexagonal of an inch (military picket) do not know their names in English, I suppose (spark test) is aisi 1050 1060.

I decided to finish one (but with rough portion) and leave the other completely hand forged (it's my preferite!).

now are not completely finished, I think it is better to first finishing the handles.

 

what do you think?

 

every criticism is welcome to improve my next attempts.

 

MDF___Hawk1.jpg

 

 

MDF___Hawk2.jpg

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I think they look great.

Some reason they lookin like they'd work real well at splitting logs.

Probably the taper. Great job on them.

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Great job-very good control of the process.Nicely centered eye,plenty of beef still left in the sides of an eye,if you ever wanted to experiment with different langets/ears type shapes.Plenty of material is also still in the blade,also some great potential.Classy effort altogether-great for any handled tool-hotcut,et c.Right on!

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Great job can not wait to see when they have a handle. and i want some steel like that.

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They look very good! B)

 

I'd forge them out wider at the edge, but that's just me. I like the clean looks, rather like a mortising axe or an ice axe (the type used for cutting blocks of ice, not the kind you climb mountains with).

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Nice i like em both! Well done!

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I haven't forged a hawk yet, but I would of upset the area on the cutting side so that I could of made the cutting edge a little wider.

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Many thanks guys for your opinions and your criticisms, are very important for me.

Now i am working the haft...

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You did a nice job. Alan mentioned he forges his out wider in the front. So do I. Do you know what bumping up is? Before I do anything on a hawk or an ax I'll bump up the front by hammering the front end back into the bar making it thicker in the front. That way you'll have more steel and be able to make the front of the ax wider like it should be. Even during the forging of the bit it can always be hammered back making it thicker and then the next few heats you hammer the part you made thicker and it will make the bit wider. Hope this makes sense.

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You did a nice job. Alan mentioned he forges his out wider in the front. So do I. Do you know what bumping up is? Before I do anything on a hawk or an ax I'll bump up the front by hammering the front end back into the bar making it thicker in the front. That way you'll have more steel and be able to make the front of the ax wider like it should be. Even during the forging of the bit it can always be hammered back making it thicker and then the next few heats you hammer the part you made thicker and it will make the bit wider. Hope this makes sense.

Thanks Raymond, I know this technique (bumping up), in Italian is called "imbottitura", but carelessly I have not applied it.

Next time i remember certainly it.

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Great looking hawks Marco, the black one is my favourite. I can't wait to see them handled.

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Hi Marco, I like your hawks a great deal, it's a neat style you went with,maybe another time you can fuller the hammer head and draw it out to a spike, or upset the blade, to increase the cutting edge and perhaps form a beard. I like the hole for the handle a lot, it looks like a nice clean oval hole. Did you make the drift yourself? If not I'd like to know where you got it - all I can seem to find is the tear drop style. Anyway - great job and keep up the good forging.

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Great looking hawks Marco, the black one is my favourite. I can't wait to see them handled.

Ciao Ciao Giuseppe :lol: e devi vedere come sta bene con la Quercia.

 

Hi Marco, I like your hawks a great deal, it's a neat style you went with,maybe another time you can fuller the hammer head and draw it out to a spike, or upset the blade, to increase the cutting edge and perhaps form a beard. I like the hole for the handle a lot, it looks like a nice clean oval hole. Did you make the drift yourself? If not I'd like to know where you got it - all I can seem to find is the tear drop style. Anyway - great job and keep up the good forging.

 

Thanks Sade,

yes, I forged the drift myself but I want to buy a new better, anyone know where I can find these eye drifts? possibly in Europe!

 

However, this is an old photo where you see the drift just forged, then obviously was ended on the sander.

 

IMG_0073.jpg

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Nice Job. I have to agree with Alan and Raymond. The cutting edge could be a little wider. But that is just me.

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Fantastic result for a first attempt. My first attempt was added to my collection of paperweights. The blades are a little narrower than normally seen but they may not be historically inaccurate. A tomahawk was not a tool, it was a weapon and a narrow blade would have punched through a skull just fine.

 

Doug Lester

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Fantastic result for a first attempt. My first attempt was added to my collection of paperweights. The blades are a little narrower than normally seen but they may not be historically inaccurate. A tomahawk was not a tool, it was a weapon and a narrow blade would have punched through a skull just fine.

 

Doug Lester

 

Yet thanks guys,

Doug, i do not know if they may not be historically inaccurate it but is an absolutely deadly weapon...I hope to end the haft the next week.

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Hi guys,

finally my hawks are completed.

The hafts are oak and cherry wood, the embellishments are: leather, cord wrap, bone, horn, brass and real hawk feathers :rolleyes:

 

MDF-Hawk1.jpg

 

hawk5.jpg

 

hawk7.jpg

 

MDF-Hawk2.jpg

 

hawk2.jpg

 

hawk4.jpg

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