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Waste Oil Forge finally running


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So I was finally able to cobble the bits together to get the waste oil running the forge AND I still have my beard and eyebrows.

 

I am having pulsing issues and a bit of smoke I'd like to smooth out.

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5...30661&hl=en

 

This video shows the forge running only on waste, in this case its a mix of hydralic and auto tranny fluid, but I have run it on old motor oil scooped off the top of rain water. Its running hot, but I dont think I can weld with it yet.

 

The 45 degree down pipe is just a dripper that protrudes about 1/4 inch into the pipe such that the blower goes by and picks up the oil. The pulsing seems to directly coincide with oil drips, but I cant be sure.

 

The forge setup is an old foundry with bricks stacked. I've been experimenting with different forms of furnaces before I build one as a final form. It has been working very well and maintaining welding temperature with ease using propane.

 

Is there a way to eliminate the pulsing without going to an oil spray and sticking with a drip?

Edited by Kerrystagmer
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Looks quite nice! As I also have a series of tubing in the shop floor I'm looking at a way to heat water and run a forge Once I'm happy with design and burner I hope to include both a pre-heating for the iar and a water loop to boost heat in the shop durring the day. This unit will run basicly outside in the shed/forge area we are building. The water system is inside the main shop area.

 

I ran it on oil for about 20 min or so and found it to be fairly thirsty as I used almost 2 quarts. I did have some leaking at first that I had to repair I assume it will be better as I figure stuff out. I've also considered a pressurized oil tank so I can create a fine mist rather then a drip.

 

My oil supply is handy and beyond my needs. The quarry next door is very good about maintanence and change oil,tranny fluid and hydralic fluids constantly. If I work it out I can get pretty clean stuff. I found the hydralic oil seems to burn the cleanest at least at this point. I did not notice much difference in the flame.

 

 

http://www.blanketcreek.com/prod_firing.asp

 

Check out that link.

Paul runs his kiln to 2400f on waste veggie oil. He converted a standard oil furnace burner and it works like clockwork.

Might be worth a look. No smoke and no pulsing but you need continuous compressed air. It is a lot more envolved but the results are flawless.

 

FWIW

Edited by Kerrystagmer
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I'm changing over the drip system to be like Edgars with a long thin pipe protruding well into the blower pipe from a 'T'. I feel if I'm closer to the combustion chamber the pulsing issue might resolve itself.

 

As it stands I think the oil is dripping to the bottom of the pipe and kind of rolling into the chamber rather then being flung into the burn.

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I came up with mine both in my head and hten by seeing it very similarly done over on the back yard metal casting site, I had first used a 1/4" pipe on mine which didn't work all that well, once I went down to the 1/8" it worked great.

 

I had initially sat looking at my current burner and how to add in a small amount of parts to convert it, saw this the design Lionel was using, and it was along the same lines, so used it and just changed where the oil came in.

 

oilburners10_B_burnerdiag.jpg

Was easier for me to get a T and bring it in from the rear than to weld and such from the top.

 

I did have to end up buying the 1/8" pipe in galvanized as the oil black I could find was a full 20+' length, they didn't have any shorter drops. So for safety I brought it home and soaked it in some ferric to remove the galvanizing.

Edited by EdgarFigaro
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I just bought some break line from an auto parts store for the small pipe

 

I came up with mine both in my head and hten by seeing it very similarly done over on the back yard metal casting site, I had first used a 1/4" pipe on mine which didn't work all that well, once I went down to the 1/8" it worked great.

 

I had initially sat looking at my current burner and how to add in a small amount of parts to convert it, saw this the design Lionel was using, and it was along the same lines, so used it and just changed where the oil came in.

 

oilburners10_B_burnerdiag.jpg

Was easier for me to get a T and bring it in from the rear than to weld and such from the top.

 

I did have to end up buying the 1/8" pipe in galvanized as the oil black I could find was a full 20+' length, they didn't have any shorter drops. So for safety I brought it home and soaked it in some ferric to remove the galvanizing.

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