quenchant question

[kb0fhp]

I recently got some Hydrodur GF made by Durferrit, it's a salt-like powder wich you have to dissolve in water.

 

I have tried it once on a couple of W2 blades and it worked. I put in more then the reccomended 5% so I think it was still a bit slow. This stuff needs more experiments but it looks promising!

 

Oh, and it tastes awfully salt (had to try!).

 

Check the MSDS. I would be willing to bet that it is a fluoride type salt. It works by breaking up the vapor phase. I wouldn't try tasting salts on a rountine basis. For instance, some of the high temperature salts from Dufferrit contain cyanide. IT WILL KILL YOU!

[Matt Bower]

Check the flash temperature - it is VERY LOW. It would be dangerous to try that!

 

Thanks, Scott. I feel like a bit less of an idiot now. Having said that, isn't the autoignition temperature the really key one, in terms of safety? (If I understand correctly, flash point indicates a bit of a flare-up while autoignition equals major eruption.) I ask this because while the flash point of WD-40 is quite low, the autoignition temp isn't too bad.

[Matt Bower]

I wouldn't try tasting salts on a rountine basis.

 

A master of understatement you are, Scott.

[Matt Bower]

I wouldn't try tasting salts on a rountine basis.

 

A master of understatement you are, Scott.

[erik markman]

Well, I didn't take a spoonfull. It was just a very small bit of dust from the "salt".

[kb0fhp]

Thanks, Scott. I feel like a bit less of an idiot now. Having said that, isn't the autoignition temperature the really key one, in terms of safety? (If I understand correctly, flash point indicates a bit of a flare-up while autoignition equals major eruption.) I ask this because while the flash point of WD-40 is quite low, the autoignition temp isn't too bad.

 

 

The flash temperature is what keeps you out of trouble. As a general rule, don't let the maximum temperature exceed 100F below the flash. You will always be safe.

 

The best way to achieve that, is to maintain the "one pound of parts one gallon of quenchant" rule of thumb.

[kb0fhp]

Well, I didn't take a spoonfull. It was just a very small bit of dust from the "salt".

 

 

if it were cyanide - it would have killed you.....

[owen bush]

first results with WD40 indicate that it isn't a suitable fast quenchant for metals like w2 or1086v .At ambient temp (around 4C) I was getting less hardening affect than my old medium Hresulas mix .

at 70C not much better ,However if does burn very well at 70C .

As an indication WD40 will give a 3mm hardned edge on 1086 (less than 1mm thick at edge) with no clay ,clay chases the hamon back off the edge .

I think it boils too vigerously and turnes to vapor insulating the blade. As its in the tank I'll have a play with some high manganese steel before I filter it and use it as a lubricant.

No fire ball and it smells nice..........

Edited January 1, 2009 by owen bush

[Howard Clark]

Sounds like too much vapor jacket. But now you know.

Edited January 1, 2009 by Howard Clark

[Mike Krall]

For polymers - try Houghton PLC in the UK.

 

The Park #50 is a mineral oil of very low viscosity. It also has a low flash point.

 

I would not recommend using kerosene - much too low of a flash temperature. Use a quality quenchant so you can get repeatable results.

 

Houghton K is THE fastest quenchant out there. It is a premium quench oil. But I am biased

 

Scott,

 

I got the idea in a "fast quenchants" thread somewhere else that Houghton Bio-quench 700 was faster than HQ "K"... like, "as fast as water"... not so?

 

Mike