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Upgrading one of Brent's File Guides to Carbide


Frogfish
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Not wanting to spend $100+ for a carbide faces file guide I did a little searching at MSC and they sell carbide tool blanks in many sizes for in the $15 to $20 range I ordered two 1/8" X 3/8" X 3" pieces during on of thier 40% off sales and got them both for under $20 add one of Brent's file guides (which just happen to be the right size) and some JB weld and you have a carbide faced file guide for well under $100. Just be sure the surfaces are really clean before you JB welding them together. Sorry for the poor quality picture.

 

File_Guide_Side.jpg

Tim Musselman

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Keep in mind that the edges of the carbide strips will beat up your file teeth very quickly. The only reason to use carbide is if you will be using it as a ricasso guide on your grinder. I temper back the S7 to be just a couple points under a file's hardness. That way it resists the file without damaging the teeth. I use only Simonds files which are not the cheapest so the last thing I want to do is knock the edge off the teeth after the first tang I square up.

 

And even if you do use it as a ricasso guide on the grinder zirconia, ceramic and Sic belts will chew up carbide. I re-sharpen several carbide tooling bits on a zirconia grinder belt.

 

Believe it or not there is a method to my madness. I killed two files with a carbide file guide and it is sitting somewhere under my heap of tools collecting dust.

Edited by B Finnigan

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Keep in mind that the edges of the carbide strips will beat up your file teeth very quickly. The only reason to use carbide is if you will be using it as a ricasso guide on your grinder. I temper back the S7 to be just a couple points under a file's hardness. That way it resists the file without damaging the teeth. I use only Simonds files which are not the cheapest so the last thing I want to do is knock the edge off the teeth after the first tang I square up.

 

And even if you do use it as a ricasso guide on the grinder zirconia, ceramic and Sic belts will chew up carbide. I re-sharpen several carbide tooling bits on a zirconia grinder belt.

 

Believe it or not there is a method to my madness. I killed two files with a carbide file guide and it is sitting somewhere under my heap of tools collecting dust.

 

Brent has a good point I was thinking that the carbide side would be for when I'm using the grinder and I hadn't thought about file damage but the good news is the guide has two sides so there is still an S7 side for file work.

 

Oh and by the way, I in no way intended to imply that Brent's guide is anything but excellent the way it was delivered.

Edited by Frogfish

Tim Musselman

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Thanks for the field report!

 

Even more important then protecting your file is getting the carbide strips even. JB weld does not smear on even so you would need to surface both strips after it dries. The guides are surfaced twice, once after HT and then one final after fitting the pins.

 

A small irregularity between the two bars will be amplified by the guard once it's fitted on the shoulders. That dis-symmetry will be repeated on every single shoulder you square up with it. Even if you glue or braze the guard on straight you will have a noticeable gap on one side. We all know that even a .001" gap sticks out like a turd in a punch bowl on a finished knife.

 

The process of surfacing the carbide strips will generate heat which will in turn soften the JB weld up thus defeating the whole concept in the first place. You would have to use extremely light, low speed passes to keep the heat down.

 

That is why I never bothered with putting carbide on them in the first place. It's counter productive and adds cost to guide and shortens your file's life

Edited by B Finnigan

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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"I use only Simonds files which are not the cheapest so the last thing I want to do is knock the edge off the teeth after the first tang I square up."

 

Bruce,

 

I love the file guide you made me. Do you use the "Grey" or "Black" version of Simonds files? -Art

"My sword and my shield are at your command"

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if the carbide strips aren't going on flat w/ jb weld, try holding the carbide to the tool in a vise or clamps and braze them. ...... wait, then you would also have the factor of the S-7 being tempered from brazing. seems like it might be a little tricky to have the best of both worlds in one tool. Keep the one you've got, order another one from Brent, and braze carbide w/ it ! ! ;)

Edited by Ty Murch

.

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I use the red tail ones that are sold in bulk bins and are not packaged. The Multi-Kut tooth pattern is a very aggressive cutter, doesn't clog with steel and leaves about a 220 grit finish. Sorta like a metallic version of the Gator belts.

 

multi-kut.gif

Edited by B Finnigan

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Brent, which length do you prefer?

 

 

I use 8", 10" and 12" multi cuts and several others for notching guards and finish filing.

Edited by B Finnigan

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Anyone have a pic of this file guide in use? I only think I understand what it is for.

Thanks

 

Don't have a picture...

 

File guide is clamped to the ricasso at the point where the guard will seat. Using the guide as a stop so filing of the guard-seat is dead level. The guard's face needs to be flat and the hole in the guard a light friction fit on the sides.

 

Did that do you any good?

 

Mike

Edited by Mike Krall
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I can get a pic up on Mon evening. I have been meaning to for a while now.

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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This is an old guide I made several years ago out of some scrap O1. It's not representative of the ones I sell. But I can pre-rust them if you want it to look like this one. :rolleyes:

 

fileguide4.jpg

 

fileguide5-web.jpg

Edited by B Finnigan

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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You can clamp it on at any angle for the shoulders/tang and re-clamp it for a different angle on the ricasso.

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Brent, I could be totally wrong here, but I think he was asking how the guide would work if the two sides of the riccaso were not perfectly flat and accurate in thickness from top to bottom and front to back. Wes

Edited by WES
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Brent, I could be totally wrong here, but I think he was asking how the guide would work if the two sides of the riccaso were not perfectly flat and accurate in thickness from top to bottom and front to back. Wes

 

That is what I was trying to ask... thanks Wes.

 

Mike

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OK, got it! Read the question when I was too tired. Yes you can use them still but would have to shim the thinner side. The file guide can be tightened up on a slightly thinner side but the chance of snapping it is very high.

 

I just used it on a bowie that was thinner on the lower edge side by just under 1/16" and it clamped on and held good. I have not snapped the S7 guides yet. Only 5160 and O1.

Everything I need to know I learned from the people trapped in my basement.

 

 

I'm out of my mind but feel free to leave a message.

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Thank you, Brent... I was hoping, because of your design (narrow top to bottom) a person could clamp tight enough and still have the top stay flat.

 

I don't suppose you know of a design that accommodates tapered, either or both ways, ricassos do you? I've been shimming the one I built and my patience for it is worn through. Thought about a cheap set of pin gages instead of shims but I don't have another use for them. If I'd foreseen the problem I'd have put a stop screw in each corner... tough to do on a 1"sq. piece of O1 at full hardness.

 

Mike

Edited by Mike Krall
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