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2x72 Adives and biuld


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I've searched and read everyone favorite or most wanted grinder. Only a few guys said what attachments they use and why. So for the 1st part, I'd like to hear what attachments you guys use and why. Since I mostly forge blades, I'd like to hear from the guys that use these so I can figure out what attachments I want to build 1st. Plus getting some insight on how you guys use them wouldn't hurt.

 

I've got the plan for the NWGS from Tracy at USA knifemaker and started to go through what metal I have on hand. Dam not quite as much as I was hoping. I could modify the plans to fit what I have, but the plans have parts that will fit other grinders. So I stick to the tool arm layout and only do minor mods. My base will be 5" sq instead of 4" and I'll lengthen the columns 1" so everything’s the same above it.

 

Sorry guys, no pictures yet, all I have is a piece of 5” square cut out with some layout lines and some quick notes. I’ve thought about capping off the ends of some of the tubes just to make it look cleaner. But we’ll see, I’m still in pre planning. This won’t be speed build. I’m planning on taking my time and work on it part time.

 

Thanks for all your help.

Cliff

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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I have built a KMG clone and so far I have used a 8 inch contact wheel and a flat platten. My flat platten uses a 2 inch and a 5 inch contact wheel with a flat plate between them. I mostly use the flat part of the platen but have the option of rotating it to either end and using either contact wheels. Let me know if you need a pic.

Chris

Chris Williams

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Cris,

Why a 2 and 5? Just out of curiosity. I'm guessing you got the platen on a single bolt off your tool arm? What's the spread between the wheels? There's one on Tracy's site that was designed to 360 and be a slack too. I'm thinking the bolts would get in the way of the 360 spin. You could weld studs in place instead of bolts. If you want to throw up some pictures, please do. Do you have to tighten the bolt down to keep it from spinning when it's running?

 

Cliff

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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Cris,

Why a 2 and 5? Just out of curiosity.

 

 

because it gives you the option of using the 2 inch and 5 inch wheels as contact wheels for grinding different dia hollows ;)

 

sorry to jump in there, Chris :rolleyes:

"When our eyes see our hands doing the work of our hearts, the circle of Creation is completed inside us, the doors of our souls fly open and love steps forth to heal everything in sight."  Michael Bridge

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My most important attachments are at the ends of my arms. :P I have an 8" contact wheel and I made several smaller wheels to do various chores. I would like to build an adjustable tool rest and will probably get around to that when the weather warms up and after I clean up all the trees that the recent ice storm here in KY knocked down. What a mess! Anybody need a lifetime supply of firewood?

 

K

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Ken, I like the way you think. :P If you have a charcoal forge, then you've got a life time supply of fuel.

 

Simon, Duh, I wanted to know what jobs he uses them for. Hollow grinds on smaller blades? Conturing handles? Think of lt like this, your talking to somebody that has never seen a grinder really used. Maybe a few u-tube videos. How would you describe the different wheels and attachments and what there used for.

 

I can see the platen for flattening out the side, grinding to shape, and bevels, the 8" for touch up work, the slack seems more like a finish tools to me. Once I saw the small or mini wheels, bike frames and my handlebar design was the 1st thing that came to my mind.

 

It sould be a few days before the 1st picture of the frame. I had a little time tonight and worked on the tracking adjustment knob. I still need to run out and get a few feet of tube to finish the frame.

 

Cliff

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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Cliff

The flat platten is a new part I just finished building, I will primarily use the two contact wheels to shape the knifes handles most probably. While I do hollow grind alittle

I dont plan to use it to hollow grind a blade with. I have designed my flat platen so that I must remove the flat part in order to slack belt grind. Unfortunately I forgot about this thread and now am work so will post a cad drawing I made here and post a photo this weekend later if your interested in seeing it. I am using a 3/4 shaft that goes into my tooling arm, I am using a allen headed bolt to loosen and spin my flat platten around. System works pretty well and I am pleased with it, it does not slip.

Simon

No problem thanks for stepping in for me.

 

 

Edited to add my flat platen is 8 inches long and the distance between the two contact wheels is 10.250 inches.

Chris

platen1.jpg

Edited by cwilliams

Chris Williams

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I built a KMG clone useing a combination of several designs. Mine pretty much looks liks a KMG, the biggest departure is I use a pinch bolt to attach the various tools to the tool arm. I drilled a 1/2" hole horizontal in the tool arm, cut a slot in the end into the 1/2" hole. Drilled and tapped a hole for 3/8x16 and use that to clamp the tools in the arm. What that does is allows for 1 tool arm and whatever tools I want. Also the pinch bolt allows for a very quick change for the tools, approx 1/8 turn on the bolt. I have an 8" wheel and a flat platten. A 10" might be better I think. The platten I have a 2" and a 3" wheel. These allow cutting the curves for finger grooves but a 1" might be a good tool to add to the list. The flat platten is an excellent tool. With a stop block on the tool rest it allows for very accurite grinding on the taper for both sides of the blade with very little farting around. I wsh I had the fancy drafting tools and the knowlege to use them that cwilliams does, nice stuff.

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Cris,

So you use a system simular to the russian guy's design. I saw that and was impressed by the clamp system he worked out. It seems like it would be easier to have the wheels line up. Your platen has a nice look to it. If you reworked the curve, it might work with the 180 to use the slack wheel. With that clamp system spinning it 180 would be very easy.

 

6footer,

Do you have a problem with the spacing of the wheels with you clamp? That's 1 of the things that doesn't seem to clear. With this design it seems to center off the tracking wheel. I'm not sure if all the designs do the same thing.

 

I got some more handles done tonight, the 1's for the tool arm and the tool rest arm. I'm going to do 2 smaller 1's for the rest of the tool rest arm. Tomorrow should be a clear day and I'll try to get a few pictures taken. Even though the plans are No Weld, I welded the basic frame up. It's just tacked, I did a stich with 2 filaments (7018) and will grind down those welds. I think I'll use some 6013 as a filler on a few spots since I caped the end of some of the tubes. I'm going to work up the prices and time I have in the project so far tonight to see where I'm at.

 

Cliff

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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no problems with alignment, I use a 1/2" shaft on my tools and cut a piece of 1/2" tube on the shaft that serves as a spacer. Its cut to the exact length to center the tool with the tracking wheel and the drive wheel. It makes changeout really simple and fast

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OOPS I made a mistake in my earlier post, I ended up using a 2 inch contact wheel and a 4 inch contact wheel on my flat platten. I did this so my flat platen would be slightly longer than if I had used the 5 inch wheel, although the length of my flat platten above was correct.

Attaching a few pics to show you how I index the depth of my contact wheels to line up with the drive wheels on the sander.

Chris

Edited to add the photo is of a 5 inch contact wheel, I slot my 3/4 shaft and then put this snap ring on so I just seat it to depth. I also did this on my flat platten rig.

grinder1.jpg

grinder2.jpg

grinder3.jpg

Edited by cwilliams

Chris Williams

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Cris,

Really nice shop, looks like you do production. Now that I see you've got a soild tool arm thinks make more sence to me. I'm using square tube but something simular is still do able.

 

Right now I'm leaning tpward an 8" poly contact for starters, then a 4" soft poly and a 2" poly platen that I hope to make use of the back for a slack belt. I'll get the small whee holder some time down the road, with the 1" to start off with. I'll go with a 4" drive wheel and will use the KMG tracking wheel. Motor will be a 1 1/2hp with 3 step pulley.

 

So far I've got $132 into it, that's plans, metal, hardware, and pillow blocks. That's for the basic frame work, 2 tool arms, and the tool rest system. Most of the time spent on the project is wait time I had doing something else. I did weld the basic frame together and capped off some of the tubes. I'll weld up the tool rest and make all the knobs for it. This is basicly a time filler project. Works slow around here and I just wanted something to work on. The photo below shows where I'm at. I still have to do some filler welds (just to clean up the lines, same reason I capped the tubes). I've got the parts for the tracking wheel cut out and will work on them later tonght.

 

grinder1.jpg

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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Looks like a good start, I agree that making a flat platen that has a flat platen on one side and a slack grinder ability on the other side is the way to go. I would do that if making another one, Just did not occur to me when drawing it out. One thing I will mention, is when I use all 8 inches of the flat platen sanding the side of a knife blank or cleaning a damascus piece of stock I tend to bog down the 1.5hp motor. If I knew what I know now I would have gotten a 2hp motor.

Chris

Chris Williams

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Thanks Cris,

 

That's good food for thought about the motor. There's only a 30 to 50 buck differance in price new from what I've seen. I've been thinking of hitting up the local repair shops to see if they have any good deals there. Since I'm a part timer, a VFD isn't really needed, but if the right deal comes along. That's different.

 

That's what this whole threads about. Having you guys that have built and use these to speak up and give some advise to those of us building, thinking about building, or making plans.

 

Cliff

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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I’ve been thinking about a few of the pivot points on the build, like the tracking wheel and pivot arm. The plans says to add grease between 2 washers, but I’ve seen and used Teflon washers on other tools. Well it’s not Teflon, but close, I made a few HPDE washers for the pivot and tracking wheel. HPDE is a super slick plastic used in food containers like pickle barrel. In the picture below it’s the blue washer. I just cut out some small pieces and drilled them out. Put them between 2 nuts and washers on 1 of the bolts I cut for handles and worked them down on the drill press. You could use a hole saw, but the smallest I have is 1 3/8”. Now I won’t need to use any grease for the pivots. This stuff is pretty tough and slick as snot.

 

HPDEwash.jpg

A warped mind is a wonderful thing to abuse.

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