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Quench Overkill?


WillG74
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911. I laughed so hard at that. Well, I found a suitable piece of 6" square tube. It is about 1/4" thick all around so it is sturdy. It is about 42" long so It can handle sword blades. Now I just need to practice my stick welding and get a bottom ( found a perfect square piece) welded on for it and I will be good to go until I discover something else that I think I need.

Will

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I use about 12-14 gals in a oxy tank and find it too small. The size is ok but the bath heats up too far after 6-7 swords. I can get maybe 10 cutlass at a time. I intend to build a cooling system to draw off excess heat during heat treating.

 

A 100 gal propane tank would be much better as it would hold more mass/oil

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Kerry - I will only be Heat Treating one blade at a time myself. But it is good to know that I do have the tank if I need to do more. I wish you much success and I will almost certainly be at next years Fire and Brimstone hammer in.

Will

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Will,

Axner pottery supply sells rolls of 1" Superwool for $3 SQ foot. Superwool is non hazardous to your lungs.

 

http://www.axner.com/axner/equipment/super...max-blanket.php

 

Their bricks are good too, ok prices. I buy any ITC and coatings from Ellis (http://refractory.elliscustomknifeworks.com/). He has better prices/options on coatings.

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Have you tried this product personally? I will get some if it is good. Thank you for listing it. I was worried about the health hazards of the Kaowool and Inswool stuff. I need it for lining my Heat Treating Drum forge so I am unsure if it is suited for that or not.

Edited by WillG74

Will

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Will, Dont worry about a fancy welding job, just get it stuck on there good because when your learning to weld you will end up with endless amounts of pinholes. The more you try to fix the more you will make causing a vicious cycle. After you get it 99 % thats good enough, then get some stuff called Marinetex which you can order from boat places, possibly buy at Home Depot or other Box Stores. Hot oil will have no effect on it and it will seal up all the pinholes and smooth out your project which you can paint, just don't breath the stuff if you sand it or grind it.

 

The biggest improvement I ever made in my welding was switching to a automatic welding helmet, there is no guessing where you start working with that as you can look directly at the weld from beginning to end.

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The biggest improvement I ever made in my welding was switching to a automatic welding helmet, there is no guessing where you start working with that as you can look directly at the weld from beginning to end.

 

After so long of using one, I doubt I could go back to not using an auto-darkening helmet. That would suuuuck.

MacGyver is my patron saint.

 

"There's nothing in the universe cold steel won't cut." -Conan of Cimmeria-

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Have you tried this product personally? I will get some if it is good. Thank you for listing it. I was worried about the health hazards of the Kaowool and Inswool stuff. I need it for lining my Heat Treating Drum forge so I am unsure if it is suited for that or not.

 

 

Yep. I've had one forge for about 2 years that I lined with superwool, coated with satanite and ITC-100.

My only complaint is that it falls apart if its not held down or stabilized. If you have to patch holes from satanite cracking off it can be a pain. It needs to be wired in place, especially in a horizontal drum.

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Thanks toxonix. Due to the fact that I have never built a forge before. Could you tell me what to wore it in place with. I have seen a forge that the guy wired the Kaowool in. He had used stainless steel wire and tack welded it into place I think. Anyway, I would appreciate any advice on this. Is there a rigidizer for it or something? I dont mind doing the work, I would just like to know what to do with what. Thanks.

 

 

Will

Will

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