Gotland style sheath tutorial

[Petr Florianek 21]

Hello! here is little tutorial thing I had promised

 

First there is a picture of wet formed leather part, which was let to dry clamped

Edited April 25, 2009 by Petr Florianek

[Petr Florianek 21]

then i made a front piece pattern from paper, cut it and draw it to the sheet of brass. I had to decide on which hip the knife should be worn. I draw the design on the brass sheet.

[Petr Florianek 21]

then I cutted an punched the design and cutted the overall shape. (in this order, if you do it otherwise, the distortion of metal caused with punching is too big)

Edited April 25, 2009 by Petr Florianek

[Petr Florianek 21]

next step is to punch two leading grooves on the inner side to mark the bend over the leather. Then anneal the center. After that i fold it over some bar of steel. Of course you have to file the details with needle files

[Petr Florianek 21]

I put the mount to leather and start to drill and riveting. I use small brass nails, but u can use rivets or wire.

[Petr Florianek 21]

Lets go for chape - the horse shoe piece. I try to keep design on innner edge, because I sometimes need to grind some of the sheet out and the ornamenting would not be symetrical after that

[Petr Florianek 21]

TO BE CONTINUED

 

if you have any questions, dont hesitate to ask them

[Jacques Delfosse 3]

thanks Petr!

very good tutorial.

thanks to share it with us...

 

I will try

[Jiří Javůrek 0]

Hi Petr,

it's very nice work.

The hammer is faintly familiar to me.

[Alan Longmire 1,688]

Thank you for posting this, Petr!

[Ben Potter 2]

Thanks for posting this.

 

How thick of brass do you use?

[Petr Florianek 21]

this one is 0,6 mm but thats not so good as 0,8 mm, too live undre the hammer. i will continue later, as i have unexpected work to do

[Forrest 0]

Great tutorial Petr! Thanks for sharing!

[Bob Ouellette 4]

So THAT'S how it's done. Thanks for sharing Petr!

[Petr Florianek 21]

Hello! I am back and shy! I completely forget about this one. Here are twoo steps remaining. One is to make one or more suspension loops for rings. The rings on the pic (not from the same sax as above were cast. So i had to solve how to put them in the loops. I turned the back side of loops to a tube, put the ring on and then make it flat again. I you use closed, tied or riveted rings, its easier.

Edited September 7, 2009 by Petr Florianek

[Petr Florianek 21]

the last step is to fill all the gaps with U shaped clamps. I usually make them about 9mm wide and i drill them on the place and then rivet them. You can use them tightly ore loosely with some spacing.

 

I will make another sheaths like that, so I will try to put some notes here!

[Michael Pyron 0]

Thanks a LOT for this Petr! I will be using this veeeery soon!

[B. Norris 9]

Petr,

 

I hope you do not mind me posting this here, it seemed easier for others to find than if I put it in another post.

 

Here are some pictures of a tool that I made for making copper rivets for the Gotland style sheath I put together. Making the rivets for the sheath was probably the most time consuming part. The sheath I made required 27 rivets, if I recall correctly. More than 27 rivets were required after factoring in mistakes. I learned from this sheath to not put rivets close to any edge, internal or external. The rivet will bend when you attempt to form the head on the backside and it will sink into the hole instead of becoming a rivet. If you use brass, most hardware stores will have brass estucheon tacks. Here in the US, Tandy Leather carries them as well. The first time I attempted to make this tool the drill bit did not stay in the seam between the two pieces of angle iron. I had to file a shallow groove on both pieces to keep the bit from wandering. I used a 1/16" bit and it works well with the 20 gauge copper wire the hardware store sells. The wire comes with a clear coating of some kind and if I remove it, the wire will not hold between the two pieces when I'm forming the head of the rivet. However, the rivet fit into the sheath better when the coating was removed! Using this tool, the underside of the rivet head is not perfect but, the thin sheet it is riveting will dimple so it is not much of an issue. Forming the head of the rivet requires a light touch and patience, too much force and the wire bends, resulting in the head of the rivet not being centered upon the shaft. I hope that this helps out all of you who are considering this type of sheath but, cannot find appropriate rivets.

 

[athanor 0]

Thanks for shearing

verry interesting tuto

Dirk

Bourguignon

[Petr Florianek 21]

made another one, i thought i would add it here