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Dee

Furnace Building

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Hi Dee :D

 

 

I think this furnace will work good.

Nice work !

 

I need one of these too :( but Im bit afraid of electric..had one nasty accident years ago.

 

Are you able to test run it soon? I keep my fingers cross it works ok.

 

 

Love the name ;)

BR

Niko

Edited by Niko Hynninen

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Dee thats a realy kool furance two years ago i drew up plans to build one like yours only i was going to cast the bricks

anyway great job

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i loves my bullant earmuffs :D

they have great ear protection .. plus they have an inline jack attached to them so i can listen to music while i forge in perfect clarity.

^_^

 

when it comes to protection equipment ... ill forget my dust mask sometimes ... ill forget to turn on my extractor fan .. ill forget to put on my face shield .. but there is no way you will have me forgetting my hearing protection. :)

 

 

I thought that I was the only one that used a pair of those.

Nice job on the furnace

Edited by Tom_Malabar

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Hi Dee

 

very good tutorial... and how does hell fire work... do you by chance have any action shots... ..what i'm curious about is how you get a blade outa there in short order, for the quench...

 

do you have a pair of bent tongs ? or maybe you just grab the blade with flat tongs and be quick bout it.. ( keeping the toasty finger factor down )

 

i was thinking of making one myself... but i thought it maybe tricky with curvy blades... ..

 

 

anyhow.. cool post !!!

 

Greg

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I love reading build projects, thanks for posting! BTW your welding is even worse mine :P

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ime doing a similar build but useing a toaster ovens elements for heating and ko wool for insulation.. still trying to figure out how the pid thingy works tho ... got the hookups figured out and got it powered just have to figure how to program it . got the correct ssr (luckily) .. just have to wrap my mind around the setup mode ... your tempering kiln looks good good luck!

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Yeah, some one else that listens to Abney Park while beating hot steel, my new cutlass im working on is going to be nick names "OPHELIA". Are you going to put a basket or something inside to keep from hitting the elements when inserting or extracting the blade?

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Dee

Great Buildand website too....I went to ebay and was quickly over whelmed by the choices for pids and ssr's. There were a bunch of contollers with 40 or so settings, and ramp features. Then I found a stand alone unit http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Furnace-Controller.php, but that seemed pricy.

I liked your idea of the ceramic rod incide your elements....I only wish some book was available to show all the parts needed. I cant find a good online instructional...

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Dee

Great Buildand website too....I went to ebay and was quickly over whelmed by the choices for pids and ssr's. There were a bunch of contollers with 40 or so settings, and ramp features. Then I found a stand alone unit http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Furnace-Controller.php, but that seemed pricy.

I liked your idea of the ceramic rod incide your elements....I only wish some book was available to show all the parts needed. I cant find a good online instructional...

For anyone interested in building electric kilns and controllers I strongly recommend checking out

Dudley Giberson's- Joppa Glass website - http://www.joppaglass.com

Dudley sells plans and controllers and is just a phone call away if you need any help.

He has also written a book called the Glass Blowers Companion which has become one of the bibles for Hot glass studio builders.

Hot glass artists use a lot of similar temperatures in their equipment as do bladesmiths.

Good luck

Steve

Edited by bronzetools

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For anyone interested in building electric kilns and controllers I strongly recommend checking out

Dudley Giberson's- Joppa Glass website - http://www.joppaglass.com

Dudley sells plans and controllers and is just a phone call away if you need any help.

He has also written a book called the Glass Blowers Companion which has become one of the bibles for Hot glass studio builders.

Hot glass artists use a lot of similar temperatures in their equipment as do bladesmiths.

Good luck

Steve

Thanks Steve.....

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I'm thinking maby a 20 amp GFI would help you not get zaped to badly

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I have read this thread and was wondering if there is any reason why you couldn't use a rheostat to control the resistance to the coils?

Would a variac work?

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I was looking at those fire bricks and they really look like some bricks that we use in Italy for indoor construction. We call them Siporex or AAC (Autoclaved Aerated concrete). I made a dome out of it over my forge and it took o couple of hours, as it is very easy to work. Extremely good as insulation, it keeps the temp so well that is almost ridiculous. After hour forging with my coke forge at full power, touching the outside of the brick it was just warm. The only problem is that prolonged direct contact with flames and burning coal break it down. It is used by a company which makes knifemaking gas forges here and the only advice that they give is to line the floor of the forge with ceramic tiles. Which also do in my forge made with ceramic fiber liners, because of the borax always eating it. In an electric oven you will have no problem at all.

 

Thank you for sharing your experience, Dee, i wanted to do something similar but with gas burners. I have the same bug, I like to do things by datasheet when I am making a sword that is going to be used. I use to send my sword to be heat treated but it is a real pain. Always waiting and sometimes they also send them back warped. They answer to my enraged call was "what do you expect? That long and thin it is obvious that comes out warped"

My money wasn't warped though and they took it as the blade came out straight...

 

Anyway, sorry for rambling and thank again for your tutorial! The only thing I would have done differently is the position: I would have put it upright and put a rod through the wall so i could hang the sword... But that's my way to do things...

 

Thank you again!

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I am new to blacksmithing and have mostly decided on using an air compressor tank for the forge which will be heated by lpg, and lining it with ceramic blanket with fire bricks on the bottom. So my tanks is 800mm long (31inch) basically a standard tank, so firstly will this concept work? and secondly because my tank is quite long so do I need two gas inlets to the tank?

Thanks in advance

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You don't need 31" of working area.
My professionally made forge is 12" long.
And even that is too much really for knife making.
You only forge a few inches at a time.

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I am new to blacksmithing and have mostly decided on using an air compressor tank for the forge which will be heated by lpg, and lining it with ceramic blanket with fire bricks on the bottom. So my tanks is 800mm long (31inch) basically a standard tank, so firstly will this concept work? and secondly because my tank is quite long so do I need two gas inlets to the tank?

Thanks in advance

 

You did notice this thread is on electric heat-treating furnace building, right? ;)

 

JJ is correct, that's way to big for a forge for general smithing. You only need a hot spot around 100-200mm (4 to 8 inches) for knives and swords, because a: as was mentioned that's as much as you can forge in one heat and b: if you have a longer heat than that the blade will bend all over while you're forging the spot you can.

 

Check out the following threads for burner ideas: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=25573 and https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26862.

 

Welcome aboard, by the way!

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