Jump to content

Recommended Posts

DSCF1070.JPGDSCF1068.JPG Hi- I haven't posted for a while because I've been busy making a KMG clone. It was a lot of work but it turned out great. I bought the contact wheels and scrounged the rest. The motor is a GE 1720 rmp 1 1/2 hp set up with a three speed pulley system. You'll see in the pics that there's a eccentric pedal that I step on to raise the motor and lock it in place to change the belts. I bought the motor and a 2 hp motor (which is a monster) for $100.00 on Craigslist. I decided to weld everything I could to save time. The tool bar is drilled and slotted with a 3/8 allen head adjusting screw so I can rotate the platen 360 degrees like Ed Caffey. There is also a 2" and 3" contact wheel on the platen. I had a problem with the tools slipping when I used the smooth rod so I changed it to allthread with a big knob to tighen the tools. I made the whole thing on a stand so I could move it around with two solid rubber wheels in the back that only come in contact when the front end is lifted . There is also a tool rack on the base to hold the larger contact wheels or the platen when it's removed which also provides counterweight to the weight of the motor in back. Everything works great- next up is building a small contact wheel fork. The whole thing took about seven full days and cost around $600. Exceeds the old grizzly which is now up for sale.

DSCF1063.JPG

DSCF1066.JPG

DSCF1064.JPG

DSCF1066.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

You're machine looks great, nice job! One thing you may think about is protecting you're motor from grit and grime associated with grinding, even sealed motors will wear out pretty fast if they are not protected. I built a machine a few years back and had the grit flowing into the motor similar to you're design, motor under a ten inch disc, then changed the design.

 

You may think about moving your motor over and higher, similar to the original KMG motor position or try to compensate by collecting fodder via vacuum, shielding, or even enclosing and providing fresh filtered air by a fan to cool you're motor off.

 

 

You did a fine job with the welding, I just cowboy welded up a door and bent/warped the Heck out of the thing because it was a one off, thin metal, no math, no jig, Coffee-cut-N-weld design, big emphasis on the Coffee. The good news is it is one heck of a strong security door and that is what I needed. Now I just need to go ahead and weld me up grinder as I have the motor and found some great square bar in the back of a friends warehouse.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good but why did you use a sereated wheel for a drive wheel? I would find you a smooth one and use that sereated wheel as a hogging wheel to remove material faster when in the rough grits. It would really work a lot better then move to the smooth wheel to define your finish. Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bryan I may try to make a deflector to help protect the motor from dirt. I had thought about putting it on top but felt it would be to top heavy. I have spare motors if need be.

 

Mike I used the rubber wheel for a drive wheel because I had 2 of them laying around. I had thought about buying one but figured I would give it a try. Both rubber drive wheels were 4" and a little to small for contact wheels -plus they would need to have bearings to work with this design. I did have to radius the rubber on the drive wheel to make it track right.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...