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ROLLER MILL BUILD STARTING


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ok .....thanks dennis.. this setup should be able to stabilize the bearings....much what hugh macdonald did in the green roller. :)

 

 

John , that's more like it but cut the top plate in three piece. Keep the ends and use the center piece for summing else, that way you will be able to see what's going on when you are rolling .

 

Hope this helps Dennis K

Edited by Dennis K
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John , that's more like it but cut the top plate in three piece. Keep the ends and use the center piece for summing else, that way you will be able to see what's going on when you are rolling .

 

Hope this helps Dennis K

 

 

 

yes.......... helps a lot and thanks !!!!!!!

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ok it is now fully functional.

 

i finished rolling out the slab of w2 and rolled out a damascus billet.....since i left the handle on i could not switch it end for end.......very happy with the whole project.

 

next will be some assembly photos of the second mill being put together. it will be painted bear brown in honor of its new owner :lol:

nw2.jpg

ndamacus.jpg

Edited by john marcus
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next will be some assembly photos of the second mill being put together. it will be painted bear brown in honor of its new owner :lol:

 

Nice. :lol:

 

Thanks for the update John!

 

--Dave

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searobin are you getting slippage on fluxed pieces or dry?

 

Dry with the scale brushed off.

I'm probably trying to reduce the billet dimension too fast, but I also think if both rollers were powered It would work better.

My shop is in South Mississippi,When the anbient temperature is above 100 F and when I light off my forge, the temp reaches about 120 F, so I'd like to speed up the process.

Edited by SeaRobin
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ok.....now that i have some clue i have started the assembly of the second roller mill.

 

photo shows alignment of the basic frame which must be true with the top roller so it will run without binding. then the lower roller is fit and the verticals are snugged up to fit.

 

the camshaft holder can now be assembled and fit in place. once these pieces are welded together it will be time to install the foot pedal and pressure strut.

 

last pic is a 1.5 hp motor that can run on 110vac and a 60:1 reduction gear box.

oassmbly1.jpg

oassmbly2.jpg

oassmbly3.jpg

oassmbly4.jpg

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motor and gear are suspended from chain hoist

 

shafts are marked to be trimmed to keep the motor close to the frame.

 

mount will be marked for a pass thru window, aligned and welded in place

qmotor2.jpg

qmotor1.jpg

Edited by john marcus
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Awesome work John! If you were to make another batch of these what would the running price be roughly?

 

 

turnkey with motor and drive around $2500.

 

i have enough machined parts for a third. :)

 

thanks for being curious !!

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roller mill 1.5 hp 110vac with 60:1 gear reduction, manual motor switch with motor overload protection.

rollers c1045, bearing are bearing grade bronze.

 

READY TO CRATE AND SHIP TO BEAR COUNTRY :)

ready1.jpg

ready2.jpg

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Looks like a good piece of machinery.

As a guy who just started tinkering with machining I envy your machining skills.

 

Great work, It looks a bit too Swedish though. ;)

 

Thanks for sharing.

Marius

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Looks like a good piece of machinery.

As a guy who just started tinkering with machining I envy your machining skills.

 

Great work, It looks a bit too Swedish though. ;)

 

Thanks for sharing.

Marius

 

 

its also the colors for university of california at los angeles........( bruins )

 

i have been making stuff forever and have a great shop at my disposal.......its not rocket science mostly patience and learning from mistakes :)

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Nice job, John. If I didn't already have one, I'd want one of yours.

 

I wanna know where were you when I was building mine with old nail files and used sandpaper tho?!? :rolleyes: Na, I enjoyed the build, doing it myself, but I probably could have used your services for turning the rollers. Mine may need re-doing one day, I may look you up.

 

Dan

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its also the colors for university of california at los angeles........( bruins )

 

i have been making stuff forever and have a great shop at my disposal.......its not rocket science mostly patience and learning from mistakes :)

 

 

I'm Norwegian so I just had to, :P

I have a Chester Lathe/mill combo machine, so it's not the best but it's what I could afford and It's absolutely good enough for what I'll use it for.

No, it's not rocket science and I have a background in 3D modelling so I have an OK relationship with shapes and angles an stuff. It's more using the machine and seeing the optimal order of processes to get to the destination. And the setup, I think I have a 10:1 ratio of setup to actual machining. :blink:

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