Jump to content
John Smith

Collaberation With Jim

Recommended Posts

I am actually putting a new handle on my hammer just so I have a fresh start here, that is how excited I am on this project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well John..looks like I will have some free forge time this afternoon so I will be doing this up and finishing it then..Will post pics later today on what I will be doing..

 

Have a "funny idea" as to how I am going to funky up the Hada....so we will see...

 

As it is we will get that 3/8" by 1" you wanted...how long it is going to be is a mystery as yet..we get what we get.. We will loose some mass by my playing with the hada but we should get more than enough material for what we are planning....

 

More as things happen

 

JPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great Jim I thougth you might try to funk the hada some more I think the size is going to yield a few blades, which by the way one will be for sale after it is forged and polished so keep your eyes open for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello:

 

Well I had soem free time today and the forge was going so I went and finished up the billet..

 

The first photo is the finished bar..it is 55" long 1 1/16" wide and 7/16" thick

 

The second photo is of the "test piece" that I cut off and flattened to see if it will harden right in water....

 

The third photo shows the curved test piece prior to hardening. I simply heat it up and then dumped it into my slack tub...No temper..to anneal..just as it is cut and flattened

 

The fourth phot shows the three pieces it broke into

 

The last photo shows the break surface and the grain of the steel..

 

For what it's worth..I am very pleased . I hope that everyone can see the grain..

 

Now this is as it was when it was cut off the bar, and just flattened.. NO anneal, no normalization, no nothing othe than one squish under Julius and then into the water. So for a "raw as forged" piece of steel I am very pleased with the grain size.. I did a test etch on the piece after I cut a window and the hada is very subtle, but that should "improve" once the piece is hardened...

 

So..all that is left is for me to pack this up..get myu carcass down to FedEx ground and send it off to Brother John.

 

Now As soon as I finished this I called him and now he is salivating...well folks..my part of this is done... Expect the next installment to come from Mr. Smith....

 

I am very pleased with the way this has worked out. I do not know what to expect in the way of hada, but we get whate we get.. Should proove interesting...

 

So John..it's your turn...

 

JPH

DSC00159A.jpg

DSC00163A.jpg

DSC00162A.jpg

DSC00165A.jpg

DSC00181A.jpg

Edited by JPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jim is right I am salivating over this, I can hardly wait for it to get here so I can start forging the blades. Jim and I were talking last night and we think that we ended up with about .70 to .75% carbon in the final billet which I am just fine with as far as carbon goes. And I feel it is just right for water quenching so I will do a test of my own.

 

Other than that Jim is right I shall post many pictures for all to see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello!!

 

Well the bar is on its merry way to Mr. Smith....he should get it when the fine folk from FedEx ground do their diligent best to deliever it...So ...the rest is up to him...

 

Now it is my turn to salivate....

 

JPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well once it gets here I shall start by getting the billet cut down to the approximate sizes that we need for each blade I woudl rather the pieces be larger so I can work down rather than figure out to late that I needed more length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

*** UPDATE ***

 

Well I got the steel from Jim and I must say it moves like butter, I had to actually slow down on top of the slow motion forging that I do. Just so I would not move to much steel while forging. Here are some pictures of the blade while in bar format and then slowly being forged.

 

Thus so far the sunobe was a total of 27" long and just a little over 3/8" at the mune-machi and tapering to just under 3/8" at the kissaki. Now that the blade is forged out it has a nagasa of 23" and a nakago of 8" Jim and I were shooting for a 25" nagasa but I figured wrong on the sunobe length. I cut 22" and should have cut 25".

 

DSC_0071.jpg

 

DSC_0078.jpg

 

DSC_0080.jpg

 

Now these pictures are of the blade about 3/4 done I was gearing up to start forging the kissaki. But before I did that i had to put some reverse sori in the blade to accomodate the access curve that was about to happen.

 

DSC_0082.jpg

 

DSC_0083.jpg

 

DSC_0084.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So all in all the steel if a very forgiving steel I still had some learning to do as I had to forge hotter than I was used to doing. It was not until the end that I had to actually reduce my temps so I woulnot over heat the kissaki.

 

There will be more pictures I as start to draw file the blade and clean it up and look for problems.

 

Any comments are most welcome. Plus I will be posting some videos of the forging of this blade to You Tube in a short while.

Edited by John Smith

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John:

 

Ok now I am the one salivating.....

 

The dimensions sound great to me...already have some of the furniture for this puppy...

 

heh heh heh

 

JPH

Edited by JPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great threads guys! Very interesting!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Don. I am hoping to have the W-2 in bar stock with in the next week or so. Then I will have enough work to last me most of this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the youtube videos I promised

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting the videos. It's nice being able to look at your technique since I've started working on my first tanto blade. Really nice hammer control.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John!!

 

My so-ward is a movie star!! Ya all can now just call me "Hollywood Hrisoulas"..(which is better than 99% of the things I have been called in the past..)

 

OK...I have to call ya on the carpet (as I use to say when I was in the service of Uncle Sugar... to "stand before the man"...) about your eye protection... Call me a wuss, call me paranoid but I do not advise any hot working at all without eye protection...Eyes are very important..ask the man that has one....At least you did put on the goggles when stuff started flying...GOOD FOR YOU....I don't want to see anyone get some sort of preventable eye injury...Enough safety lecture..

 

I am not sori to say that I like the sori in the sunobe as it is... That thing looks like a real meat cleaver and that is basically what we have been discussing....and right along the lines of what I had pictured in the vast emptiness of my head....I have enough of the "willow wand" swords..I want something that has some width to it...

 

Looks GREAT..Did you see any discernable hada while working?? I did funky it up a bit with some of my own "creative forging techniques".. Just curious as to whether any showed up at cherry red and if so....I hope it was interesting to see... now I will be on tender-hooks until the yaki-ire is done...I hope it survives....if it does..we should have something spiffy...

 

Once again..LOOKS GREAT

 

JPH

Edited by JPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For Jim yes lesson learned on the goggles.

 

Wes thanks for the compliments I do try to work very hard to control the hammer.

 

And Toxonix just wait and see bud this blade will be awesome.

 

Back to Jim question on the seeing the hada while forging, the answer is yes while the steel was from the cherry red to light orange you could see the hada then after you get to the bright orange you loose it in the mix of shawdows.

 

This steel moves like butter under my hammer. And like I said I had to actually slow down to keep from over forging the steel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dang! I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

I have a quick question. Probably a nooby question but, why to you wet the hammer and anvil face before forging?

 

-Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It helps keep the scale down on the blade while forging, there are several threads in here on that but if you pm me I will try to explain it better to you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll look for the threads but if I don't find them I'll pm you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tim no problem.

 

And thanks for the kind words from everyone. I will be in the shop today so you will see pictures of todays work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok here is one side almost finished draw filing. Jim wants me to taper the shinogi-ji in towards then mune making it about 3/16" thick and then running back out to just under 3/8" at the kissaki. Some of the scale towards the mune-machi were a little deep and I am working very carefully to not remove to much steel here. So here are some pictures of the blade being draw filed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_0033.jpg

 

So let me know if any one has any questions and I will try to answer them. And as always comments are most welcome.

 

Oh one more thing I have a surprise blade that I will be showing very soon and it will be for sale. And I feel that alot of you will like this particular blade. Muhahahaha ( Evil Laugh )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ok here is one side almost finished draw filing. Jim wants me to taper the shinogi-ji in towards then mune making it about 3/16" thick and then running back out to just under 3/8" at the kissaki.

 

Awesome thread. John and Jim.

John I really like the geometry on this thing, but I'm not sure I understand what you mean with tapering the Shinogi ji and then running it back out at the kissaki. Do I understand you correctly, are you making a "high Shinogi", where the blade is thicker at the Shinogi than the Mune and where the Mune is flaring out to meet the Koshinogi?

 

In picture #7; is that a curved shadow from the Katanakake going across the Shinogi ji or are you really making a Unokubi Zukuri blade? :D

 

Thanks for sharing guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys work so fast it's scary :blink: But hey, it's good work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok Jim wants the mune to be about 3/16" in the middle and tapering out to 3/8" at the ko-shinogi and mune-machi. He wants a cutter with very little resistance.

 

And yes I have forged the shinogi to be higher then normal as I want to be able to show off the hada.

 

This blade is a wide blade, to begin with as I feel the Chinese knock offs are to thin and have no width to them, we wanted this blade to feel like a beast and yet still be light enough to wield.

Edited by John Smith

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brad you are correct on the sugata of the blade. Jim wants a great cutter and the blade will have some decent niku as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...