Fogotten Clipper

[Jeremy Vaught]

I forged this clipper probably a year or so ago and it fell in the cracks. I finally got around to cleaning it up and HTing it last weekend and got it this far this morning. Deciding on furniture now. I'm leaning towards a buffalo horn guard, a healthy slice of western juniper and then a mystery antler I have laying around. I don't etch a lot of blades, so please...feel free to critique. I'm still working on technique.

 

 

 

Thanks,

JV

[RedNeckLeftie]

Hey Jeremy,

 

Overall, I'd say it looks all right. What are the dimensions?

 

Just a couple of comments: Mind you--this is strictly my personal preference, and may not be "kosher"--but with that blade I think it would look better with your mark back on the flat. Is it just the lighting, or is the hardening line fairly dark? Some folks prefer a dark hardening line, some a whiter line (I'm in the latter group). Don't know how finished you are with the polishing, though...

 

Sorry I can't comment on the handle stuff, I'm just not that "advanced" yet. Still trying to get fairly simple hidden-tangs to look good myself...

 

Thanks, and keep showing the progress,

[Jeremy Vaught]

Thanks Brian.

 

I haven't put a ruler to it yet, but I'd guess the blade length including ricasso is about 5".

 

I did consider marking this blade on the ricasso, but I have always marked my blades in the same place. Decided to stick with it.

 

As far as the etching, I mixed up about 10% ferric in water and etched for about 20 seconds, neutralized the acid, then rubbed with a 1500 grit paper/cloth. Did this 3 times. It is a little dark, but the photo does make it appear a little darker. Any tips on lightening it up?

[RedNeckLeftie]

That's roughly what I guestimated the size was, and there's nothing wrong with consistency, especially if it's part of your "signature."

 

As to the whitening, I'm still looking for a bulletproof "process" (sort of an unobtanium). Since you've already etched, you might try some polishing paste or #2000 wet/dry. With pastes, I find Q-tips or thickly folded paper towel seem to work best as polishing media. With w/d, be sure not to scrub; use unidirectional strokes.

 

I have had some pretty good results (on 1050, 1060, and W2) by using a polishing paste after the etch/neutralize, and before the wet/dry (in my case, I use baking soda water for w/d lube). The pastes seem to get out more of the dark oxides that ferric leaves behind.

 

Flitz is my "miracle" polish today. There are lots of polishing pastes and rouges out there worth trying, can even find some at auto parts stores. It's no wonder I'm not so good with handles and fittings--can you tell I spend way too much time with blade polishing