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Cable Necker


Serge Panchenko
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Serge

I also like the blade design, to bad about the bad welds thou if you weld them yourself, weld nice and easy at first but hit that sucker hard after it gets tight and you wont have all those voids in the billet.

I forge my cable really hot so I know the wire on the inside is at temp so I don't get a cold shot.

You're the same dumb pilgrim who I've been hearing for twenty days, and smellin' for three!

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I have noticed I only get the voids in my cable when I etch for long periods of time. I therefore now etch my cable for much shorter durationds than my 1084/15n20 damascus.

Anyone else notice this with cable.

Serge, Great looking piece.

Chris

Chris Williams

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Serge, good work. I wish I could somehow work a trade of skill with you- I would gladly show you how to weld cable solid if only I could grind as well as you can...

 

stupid grinding...

 

Really good little knife. I like the idea of it, and the damascus world is great fun. Beautiful, too.

 

kevin

please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/

 

“Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs

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Looks good, cable is a blast and cuts. Cable begins with 120+ strands and at least that many places for voids and inclusion. My pattern damascus starts with 9 layers and only 8 places for voids. Every fold now has only one area for voids and junk. Cable is an SOB for voids and junk, do the math. Start with 15" long sections, heat, begin the welds. We then cut into smaller sections, beginner billets. These still are not clean and free of voids. I find it easier to heat and flux a smaller section that is the size of the project. The same with pattern damascus, I get a big guy going, then cut into smaller sections. I find that cable really needs to be forged to shape, the junk and voids need to be beat out right down to the final. The 60,000# press helps with that, but the hammer and anvil does the final.

 

Nice shape, great final.

 

Jim

Jim Allen

Three Sisters Forge

Bend, Oregon

 

http://www.threesistersforge.com

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Nice looking knife Serge! I've got four or 5 billets from early on in my forge welding that have small voids like that. I've never made anything out of them yet, but I plan to use the steel in some of my "box welded" billets. I'm not sure how much strength is lost with the small voids. I reckon not very much, but I'd be upset if I put a bunch of effort into making a nice knife and had it break on me.

 

I don;t usually care for knives that are all steel, but this one looks pretty good to me.

Have you ever thought about the life of steel? It's interesting to think that you can control the fate of a piece of metal.

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