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WIP single edged PW Viking sword


Jake Powning
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I've been working on this piece for Quit a while. I've been taking photos of various stages of the process along the way, they are not comprehensive, but I think it captures the piece at different stages along the way. I have them uploaded to my facebook page which is much faster to upload to than my website or this forum, so I'll post a link to that as well as some pictures here.

WIP viking sword

It's exciting to see all the information on single edged swords and big seaxes on the forum lately.

This is a single edged sword with a four bar construction, 800 layer edge billet, with three 9 layer core billets with an alternating interrupted twist pattern. I tried to forge the billets as small as I could before forge welding them, so the pattern is very close to the pattern on the bars before welding. The blade has a shallow wide fuller. I still have to do a proper polish on the blade, and finish the bronze fitings and then assemble.

I just cast the hilt furniture this morning.

thanks for looking :)

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Great tutorial (really nice pictures).

Do you use any flux with the bronze (I am assuming it is silicon bronze?

Ben Potter Bladesmith

 

 

It's not that I would trade my lot

Or any other man's,

Nor that I will be ashamed

Of my work torn hands-

 

For I have chosen the path I tread

Knowing it would be steep,

And I will take the joys thereof

And the consequences reap.

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Wow awesome one Jake!!! I wasn't able to view anymore pics when I clicked the link. Did you weld up the core bars and edge billet together with the core bars still round? I'm starting on my first pattern welded seax and am not sure if I should grind the bars round before twisting then forging them back square or the other way around? Can't wait til I get to see some more pics of this beautiful masterpiece!!!

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Hi guys,

Ben I am using silicon bronze, the silicon in the bronze acts as a fluxing agent when it melts, so you don't need to use flux which makes casting allot easier.

thanks Alan!

Hi Michael, I grind the surfaces that are going to be facing each other. Before I twist I forge down the corners of the square bar, then I twist and then I take an angle grinder and grind the scale off where the billets will meet.

Hi Jared, I'll see if I can fix the link.

Hi Petr, I have been experimenting with forging and grinding my long single edged swords to their distal dimensions and then heat treating them with a rectangular cross section, tempering once, grinding in the bevels and fullers slowly so I don't build up heat and then giving them another two tempers after that. This is a trick I learned from Owen Bush. Strangely, I still got a bit of a nose dive, much less than you would get with a triangular cross-section but still, I guess the curved tip gives enough length difference between the back and the edge to create a cooling difference, either that or it's the faeries.

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Jake, that little teaser of a tip shot is just not doin' it for me. Let's see a full length shot of that cool blade man; With the steel in it's full glory; your billet assembly looked really sweet!

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Jake,

I love your work. really nice stuff.

kevin

please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/

 

“Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs

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. . .

 

dibs?

"Whats the point of women? I've got knives, they're just as pretty and I don't need to buy them dinner to get them out of their sheath"

http://omalleyblades.weebly.com/available-blades.html

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thanks lads,

it turns out that facebook was updating their privacy settings yesterday, so that may have been why that link wasn't working, I think it should be working fine now.

 

I think the billet was around 2 1/2 inches wide before forge welding.

 

here's a better shot of the pattern, this is at 240grit. I will go to 600 grit and then etch. I'll get some better pictures of the pattern then.

0willowraven38.jpg

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thanks guys. It's nice to be back in the flow :)

Someone asked me why I make swords recently, and I was going on about archetypes and power objects and material culture, when I realized that it may have been an irrational love of fiction and mythology that got me started down this path, but it's the community of other people doing it as well that gives it meaning to me now.

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