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Need an idea :)


Kenon Rain.
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hey guys, I have a ton of steel, 1060, and 1080 and 15n20 for patternwelding. And, I have some beautiful flamed wallnut I found when I cut a peice off a big chunk of wood. Its very dry.

 

I also have plenty of leather for a sheath.

 

what I need from you guys, is a cool project that combines them all. It can be damascus, big or small, though I am hammering by hand, so I would try and limit the blade length to under 2 ft for sure. hopefully more around 12in or less. Tomorrow I'm making a kmg clone.. figure make a good grinder once and for all and stop messing with the ghetto ones for once :P, so I'll be able to start whenever.

 

thanks guys, images, sketches, or descriptions for me to draw up are all great. I just think it would be sweet to see a blade born of the collective input of the forum come to life :P I also know this is very broad as there are so many blades, so I'll narrow it down some. I'm not looking to get into composite pattern welded blades just yet, I would rather make one of those on my own when I have more free time. Sword length blades, or super high polish work to cultural standards are not going to happen either.. to much time..

 

Other than that, open to suggestions :)

 

this blade will be fit in between commissions.. for when I need a break.

 

thanks guys

 

-Kenon

Edited by Kenon Rain
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Can I have your ghetto one?

 

I vote for a multi-bar celtic leaf blade shortsword. Maybe three bars of 1060/15n20 in an opposing twist pattern, with 1080 edges. Give that new grinder a workout. :)

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heh, maybe down the road for the celtic leaf, I'm shooting for something a bit more simple.. mid to high layer damascus, basic pattern altering.. Something that I can be comfortable making, and more confident that it will actually turn out :P

 

daggers, choppers, art blades, cast fittings or smithed and carved. just try and keep the ideas on the smaller side, max blade length I think will be 12 inches, but if you have a design that requires something just a little bigger, post it up anyway :P

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Can I have your ghetto one?

 

I vote for a multi-bar celtic leaf blade shortsword. Maybe three bars of 1060/15n20 in an opposing twist pattern, with 1080 edges. Give that new grinder a workout. :)

 

That's got my vote!

 

Or a nice beefy Kukri, such as: this one. If you got really motivated you could even do a really beautiful set complete with karda and chakmak (like this basic one.)

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Okay, so what do you think of this? It's a san-mai chopper with a half-height grind to show the lamination, but with the top half of the blade left forge-finished. The two-tone handle idea was to line up your flame walnut (stained dark, but not so dark as to loose the flame character) with the forge-finished flats, and have a smaller, lighter colored, straight-grained wood (like oak) lined up with the lamination. The two-tone handle thing was just something I threw in there for fun, but just using the flame walnut alone would look really classy. I'm playing with the idea in my head of some carving on the handle, but I couldn't draw it anyway, so I'll leave that to you :P

 

2dw6hrk.jpg

 

~Noah

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Hmnn, cool drawing :) I like it. would that be a kitchen blade? I'll think on it, or sleep on it going by the current time :P

Certainly open to more suggestions, fighters, users, kitchhen blades.. sculptural, whateva :P I have a ton of wrought iron too for fittings.

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Hmnn, cool drawing :) I like it. would that be a kitchen blade? I'll think on it, or sleep on it going by the current time :P

Certainly open to more suggestions, fighters, users, kitchhen blades.. sculptural, whateva :P I have a ton of wrought iron too for fittings.

 

I was thinking a combination kitchen/camp knife--the handle is shaped more for chopping than kitchen work, but it would work for both.

 

~Noah

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How about just a nice Damascus Bowie, with a nice walnut handle. Make it as elaborate or as simple as you like. But I would think a nice oval guard and file worked butt cap of nickel silver, or sterling. Something shinny to contrast the darker walnut. Also, Walnut get a bit darker when you finish it. I was talking to a guy at a knife show who made display box's and he said he gets around that by bleaching the walnut before finishing. That's wood bleach, not Clorox for cloths. You might want to experiment a little on some scrap wood until you get the results that you want. Just a little something to complicate matters. Well I'm a sucker for a nice Bowie, but I'm sure whatever you decide to make, it will turn out fine. You know the saying, "you can't please everyone, so you have to please yourself". Good luck.

 

Tony G

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my vote is totally for something seaxy. i can draw up a whole bunch of different designs if you'd like, but wolf tooth is by far my favorite.

 

or maybe a dagger, with a carved handle and straight laminate blade, simple and presentable. possibly fileworked guard.

 

pics to come. lots of them. haha

 

edit: well, these are a few designs that i had done a few years back before i realised they would be entirely too hard for me to make (for now).

the bear was meant to be a big, bad chopper, with a 2inX12in blade, if it was PW, i would make it straight laminate.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2gv54b5&s=5

 

the wolf one was meant to be a long knife, probably 2 feet, and about an inch wide. brokeback on that one, and for sure wolftooth pattern.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25z7dhc&s=5

 

if you like these, send me a pm. i can knock out another one probably the same day if you wanted to collab on it.

Edited by C Daniel

i only need 3 things to be happy: my girlfriend, my forge, and fruit juice.

 

Casey W Daniel

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You could try something in the elvish style.

 

I just drew this up this morning. I was thinking a very light contrast pattern. Dark walnut would be nice on the grip. There's a lot that's wrong with it, but if you need a springboard....

 

knife for Kenon.jpg

He that will a good edge win must forge thick, and grind thin.

-Colin Sampson

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hehe, alright, right now I'm considering doing a laminate kitchen blade, the damascus bowie, and maybe....maybe something composite patternwelded.

 

heres the grinder btw :P should be done in another hour or two.. 12 bucks in steel from a recycling place, 3 hours of work so far, few wheels from the same place, one contact wheel from online.. delrin wheels I turned from delrin from the recycling place, and soon to have a crappy 1.5hp motor :P

 

just gotta put in a tensioner, cut off some of the extra steel, rig up the drive, and call it good :)

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Thats gonna be too cool. I have plans for one of those, I just need to get off my duff and try making it. Although, I figure that with my luck the first time I switch it on...I'll end up wearing an 80grit turban.

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theyre pretty easy if you just simplify everything.. like, instead of making the outside tube that holds the arm, I just bought two peices of steel that fit together nicely.. the wheel, a 4in contact wheel is good enough for most work.. and this one's polyurethane.. so it was cheap, 40ish I think.

 

tracking mech is the hardest part..

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I'd like to see some pics of that walnut. If its as nice as it sounds, my contribution is to use it not only for the handle but the sheath. Really show the wood off. Particularly since you cut it yourself. I've done that with some pecan and really like using it, though what I've got I'm still letting age.

CUSTOM KNIVES BY JL RHODES

JLRKNIVES

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

God bless you. I thank God every day for the freedom to spend time with those I love, and time to pursue this craft.

 

"Adversity is a test for strong men."

"What one man can do, so can another."

"NO excuses, just do better next time."

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well Grinders done, works alright. really needs a bigger motor. Silly me left a bur and it sliced my brand new 50 grit 3m trizact belt into ribbons :/ but it'll do its job. I'll post some pictures when I get it painted..

 

I used some of my steel and hammered out a billet real quick. took me about an hour or so I think right now its about 16inches long and a quarter inch thick, and I'de say 1.25 wide. Its at 10 layers.. so I'm going to draw it out to 1/8" x 1" x 30" (calculating for material loss) then cutting it into 7 peices.. which should give me a layer count of 70.

 

I think that'll be enough as the billet will be gettin kinda small.. :P I may just finish drawing it to 1/4" and cut and stack and leave it at that.. we'll see.

 

 

 

by the way, 15n20 and 1084 weld together a hell of alot easier than wrought and fork lift tine.. Billet has no flaws and I only took it to temp 3 times.

 

 

Heres the pic of the wallnut. Its a cellphone pic, and the wallnut is only hand planed, then rubbed down with watco to bring out the figure. Its a really epic beautiful flame in person.

Photo369.jpg

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Nice.

CUSTOM KNIVES BY JL RHODES

JLRKNIVES

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

God bless you. I thank God every day for the freedom to spend time with those I love, and time to pursue this craft.

 

"Adversity is a test for strong men."

"What one man can do, so can another."

"NO excuses, just do better next time."

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Well, I went with the damascus bowie, its low layer count as my billet was getting kinda small, and I wanted the blade to be decently large.. welding part was painfully easy to be honest.. I never knew having the right steels would make such a difference.. Billet had zero flaws, and blade has none as well...

 

Here's a pic of the finished forge work, no profile grinding..

I like to forge to shape, which was probably dumb when it comes to damascus.. but hey, this is my first decent damascus blade :P

 

photo370o.jpg

 

I then hit it with a 4in disc grinder, cleaned up the lines and got rid of the pitting/scale.. Then sanded from 50-240 on my new grinder.. took maybe a half hour for all that..

 

normalized two or three times.. cant remember now :/ and quenched in the mcmastercarr's equivilant of parks 50. Sweet stuff by the way, and a lot easier to get :) Even smells good. Was a success.

tempered for 2 hours at 400, and re sanded to 240 and did an etch to show the pattern.. doesn't photograph great right now, but thats ok.. it will later. It's going back into the heat for another one or two cycles tonight.

 

After that, I have a little bit of profile tweaking to do, some filework.. then the fitting of the handle and stuff, so tomorrow I'll have some legitimate proccess photos

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would you recomend replacing regular veggie oil with the mcmaster quench oil? i hear it is good, but i don't know if it is worth the $15. great knife BTW. if you have more patternwelding supplies, it may be fun to make a patternwelded tomahawk (if you don't mind me adding that).

"I have surprised myself with what I can make with simple tools when a definite need arose. I don't think a man knows what he actually can do until he is challenged."- Dick Proennke

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Yessir, This oil is great. Regular veggie is good for 5160 and that sort of stuff, but you want a faster oil for steels like 1060-1095.. and the w series if your afraid to water quench (guilty :P)

 

Oh, by the way.. I just finished up a 10 layer weldflawless interuptted twist.. for the spine or core of a p-welded blade.. not sure what I'm going to do with it yet..

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