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BBQ Set (Knife and Fork) in San Mai Mokume

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Another one for a local regular customer of mine.


BBQ Set (Knife and Fork) in San Mai Mokume

San Mai Mokume from 1010/1070/copper sides and a 5160 core. Differentially HT'd.

4 1/4" blade - 8 3/4" overall length.

Lenga burl handles with mokume guard (stainless/copper) and mokume buttcap (1010/1070/copper) Spacers in black and white acetate, black micarta and copper. Customer initials etched on blade on request. Matching fork with 8 3/4" OAL. Brown hand made leather sheath.










Much more (and bigger) pictures on the Gallery of my website:





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Your ability to create pattern welded metal out of such a variety of materials amazes me.


San mai blade with copper/1010/1070 . . . holy cow.


I'm not sure where or how I'd even start to weld that without ending up with a puddle of molten copper on my forge floor.





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  • 6 years later...

Was it ever explained how this is done? I would imagine that instead of "forge welding" It would be more like folding and brazing. So you stack a lot of copper and steel, heat until it is all brazed, cut, stack, and forge out at a low heat? Then the blade steel would be brazed between 2 pieces of the stainless/copper billet. Is that right?

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The outer jacket of the blade is not stainless, it's 1010 (probably 1018?) and 1070 with copper.  I have no idea how you would do that, but that what he says.  The bolsters are stainless and copper.  I have no idea how he does that, either.  It's some kind of magic.



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Once upon a time he had some process pics, and it really was more like brazing/mokume using steel instead of the usual all nonferrous stuff.  Ariel is a wizard though, mere mortals can't seem to make it work as well as he does.B)

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7 hours ago, John Page said:

This is literally magic.

Alien magic. It is totally cool too!

I mean, I can grasp the concept of stacking the metals up and getting them to braze together. The melting point of copper is just under 2000*F. So, theoretically you should be able to hold a temp around 1600-1700 and fuse them without loosing the copper. You could even forge this out at that temp and harden the 1070 too. Or am I missing something?

Edited by Joshua States
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I ended up making some mokume with copper and campo de cielo meteorite last year, and I ended up only being able to work it (hammering, then rolling) by heating it to around 1800-1850.

The layers were stacked and brazed at 2100 in a vacuum furnace, held for about half an hour and then left to cool slowly. I then heated it back up for the rolling and only had minimal issues. I imagine it would work better with any very low carbon steel. 

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