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Dave Stephens

Precision Tang Fits

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I've never had a problem. Often I've spent so much time taking the handle on and off in the try fits that there isn't much left, a quick swab with acetone and I'm ready to go.

 

In any case, I don't use much petroleum jelly, just a little bit right at the bolster.

 

Geoff

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Yeah, I'm probably over-thinking it, I'll try a q-tip with acetone to wash it out. I'm just a bit concerned, this is a traditional seax with nothing holding it together but the epoxy, which in this case will be acraglas with dye to fill a few gaps...

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Another old thread with broken image links updated. Thanks, Charles du Preez for pointing this out.

tang1.JPG

tang2.JPG

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Nice, dave- I've thought about trying something like that.

 

My trick is to drill smaller than the widest part of tang by a bit and leave sharp burs on the tang. Wrap the unsharpened blade in some leather, insert, and twist. It will carve out the taper perfectly. When the tang is close to depth, I use a Scandi knife maker back cutting tang saw, which makes very neat work of the final fit, and makes a square mortise fit to prevent twisting when finally assembled.

 

But your way is much faster. ;)

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Interesting method you have there! Probably wouldn't work the best for me, I like my tangs wide and grips a bit thin.

My method is pretty simple. I drill three holes following the outline and thickness of the tang, with the tapers, and then carve out the web, square the edges, and do the final fit with all with broaches. I need to get a bigger drill press so I can use long bits and a vise. Using the cordless drill and eyeballing it leads to a lot of expensive firewood :(

I'd love to see @GEzell 's method for getting those super clean fits on triangular seax tangs ;)

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A piece of the comercial hacksaw blades makes for a good tang hole saw. Cut or grind to shape as shown on the previous page although for mine I put a permanent handle on.

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