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Long journey in to Wootz but it was it worth it ^_^

 

DSCN5531.JPG

Raw wootz bar, fast grid and etch

 

 

Niko

 

Niko,

Beautiful sample and it is worth it and would be even without the sample.

Jan

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nice pattern, Niko - oikein hyvää!!!

give us some data about the piece, pls...

 

best wishes

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Thanks to all.

 

I do think now I need to find new even harder journey...wonder what that might be??

Well...lots to do whit wootz so no need to get new obsession yet ^_^

 

 

Its about 32mm wide at moment,Im happy sens its realy close to ancient patterns,

the issue that has haunted me this long :ph34r: ..not any more.

 

Wootz bar.jpg

 

Wootz bar I.jpg

 

 

Niko

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näyttää ihanalta! tulin mustis

looks great, made me jealous

my last piece shows much much smaller and finer lines,

will do some more forging tomorrow

 

respect!!!

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just made some pics, to show what I mean

the darker one is the piece I forged on wednesday, both of wootz with 1.3%C

the third pic shows how the bar looked like before the last forging (eleven cycles more)

hope you do not mind me using your space here, Niko

x-3(1).JPG

x-4 (2).JPG

they are about 2.5cm wide, 15 long and 5mm thick

 

by the way, they are really highcycled, over 160 heat cycles, so I could not say, that more cycles do bring a "better" pattern

 

here the same stuff before the last 11 cycles:

x-ätzung (1).JPG

 

best wishes

Edited by Jokke
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Hi Jan,

 

from the same cake, very low in alloys, I am still waiting for the results, what I know is the amount of C which is 1.3% (a lot lower than I thought it was) all etches done with Fe-3-Cl, pieces are not hardened

have not been forging since last Wednesday, might do so again tomorrow...

 

best wishes

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Hi Jokke

 

the steel looks good... pattern will show darker after heat treatment...

 

if you etch in feCl.. do you do multiple etches and lightly wet sand with 2000grit paper inbetween etches.. ?

 

some alloys are harder to etch... must get the acid dilution correct to etch the matrix and leave the carbides brite... (even temp of acid can affect rate )

 

do you have any sodium metabisulphide

 

 

Greg

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Hello Greg,

 

I do multiple etches, but I hink that my ferric is too "thick", will have to dilute it a bit more -

for the etch after hardening I will use the oxalic acid as a wipe on

the etch with Nital did not show the best results in my last blades,so i will switch

and. no, I do not have any sodium metabisulphide, never tried so far,

why do you ask?!

 

and yes, I know that temps make a big difference - but I have to listen to my daughter who studies chemics :rolleyes:

she makes me be aware of all the rules one has to follow, using acids

 

thx, I do hope for a change in colour and visibility of the pattern

in the bar before forging into bladeform it looked very small, moskitolike

 

I am still waiting for the final results of the material test that a friend did for me, so far he simply told me about the amount of C, and small amounts, way under 1% of cr, si and tungsten(? not sure about that)

 

@Niko:

did you do some more forging?

I hope to get to my friends forge tomorrow evening...

 

bye

Edited by Jokke
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Thank you all for kind words :D

 

I havent forge this yet, I was planing to forge Kard and Piahqabz allways

liked the shape of both blades.

 

Jokke.

 

Do you think that in your bar the near tip were lines chance guite clear

is duo the ingots side bean shown ?

There is clear flow in those blades. Nice!

 

Niko

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Hi Niko,

 

the flow and change of the pattern near the tips came out while forging the blades thinner and forming the tips. You can actually see, that I was bending the material upwards to make the tip. I was astonished to see that happen. I did not grind any marks for laddering, though...

It is material from half of an ingot, the other half was wasted by a friend -_- (waiting to be remelted one day),

but it is the outer ends of the bar that I forged, in the inner part a long kind of gap started to show,

so I cut it into four pieces, but only two are good enough for blades

I will do puukkostyle ones again

German wootz into Finish puukkostyle blades sounds good to me... B)

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Hi Jokke.

 

 

That sounds good combination.

 

I was thinking that it might be from reduction of steel but some times

douring forging the out coming bar ends show differens in pattern.

But I think if it shows is form less amout of reduction and dirrection of solidification.

This looks nice.

 

Looking frwd to see your puukko.

 

BR

Niko

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Hi Niko,

 

this is a very good piece of pulad, you have done a good journey like some others here. I am still trying. Make something nice out of it.

 

BR, Cyrus

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Hi Jokke

 

the metabisulphide will help to bring out more pattern.. sometimes it is good to start etch with something that outlines the grains.. ( like nital,ferric, oxalic) but then finish off by re-etching with sulphide.. rubb it on with cotton cloth.. . sometimes a wet sand with 2000grit is necessary between etches.... the sulphide will leave the carbides alone... it almost leaves a film... iron sulfate is similar but does not cut as well..

- do the sulphide rub in open air.. it is stinky and bad for lungs.. ( may feel woozy if you etch your wootzy in a small room ;)

 

 

take care

Greg

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here are the results of the analyses of my last wotz-workout, which shows in two blades, done with the "optischer Emissionsspektrometer (OES)>>Optical Emission Spectrometer<< at the University of Duisburg-Essen":

 

C 1.27%

Si 0.709%

Mn 0.204%

Cr 0.11%

Cu 0.112%

 

P 0.0353%

S 0.056%

Ni 0.081%

Co 0.0217%

 

Pb, Mo,W, V, Ti, Nb, Al and Mo < 0.00% (thanks to Micha and his friend there!)

 

I am still working on the two blades, polishing and sharpening them before the final etch

so pics will come up later

 

best wishes!

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here some pics from the hardened blades:

xneu1 (5).JPG

xneu1 (8).JPG

xneu1 (10).JPG

xneu1 (11).JPG

xneu1 (16).JPG

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