foredom recommendations

[Scott Mack]

Hi all, I need to buy a Foredom but don't know what model is best suited to bladesmithing, I was looking at the TXH440 based on it's 1/3 hp motor and longer(5 ft) flex shaft. Any thoughts?

Thanks! Scott

[Geoff Keyes]

I asked Foredom and got this,

 

Thank you for your interest in our products. I recommend using our 1/3 HP TX motor kit TX300. It has our most powerful TX motor with a foot pedal speed control for hands free use. It also comes with our H.30 chuck style handpiece that accepts a wide range of shank sizes including all the ones you have from your Dremel. Other knife makes use and recommend this kit. I have attached a link below to our web page where you can check it out.

 

FWIW

 

Geoff

[tsterling]

First question is "what do you intend to do with it?"

 

I would just get the 1/6 horsepower kit of your choice. The 1/3 hp models require special hand pieces, not interchangeable with the 1/6 hp models. I use the 1/6 hp model and feel more power would not help and may actually be more dangerous (considering how I use mine), grabbing parts and flinging them at higher velocity... If you can bog down the 1/6 hp model then you're doing something very wrong. Also, don't get the extra long flex shaft.

 

Make sure you get the reversible rotation model. More important than anything are the appropriate hand pieces for the cutting attachments you intend to use. I have two of the hand pieces with the small Jacobs chuck and swap those out with two grits of scotch brite pads I always have handy. I also have one of the larger hand pieces with the various collets (I use the 1/4 inch diameter collet for Lee Valley sanding drums for my "knapped steel" technique).

 

If you're going to be doing fine carving, then one of the pencil hand pieces would be helpful, but I much prefer my NSK micro motor for that. 18000 rpm just isn't fast enough for long term fine carving in metal or wood/ antler.

 

Don't buy a hanger, get a small woodworking bar clamp, clamp that vertically to your bench and slip a small tube over the top of the bar, sealed with a bit of wood and a large screw hook. Much steadier than the Foredome hanger and clamps in more strange places. If that's unclear let me know and I'll shoot you a picture.

 

That's all I can think of at the moment...

[Scott Mack]

Thanks Geoff I will take another look at that one.

Scott

[Scott Mack]

Tom it will be used for anything that i would have used my Dremel for. what do you use the reversible rotation for, and why stay away from the long flex shaft ?

[tsterling]

Tom it will be used for anything that i would have used my Dremel for. what do you use the reversible rotation for, and why stay away from the long flex shaft ?

 

Reverse rotation is useful for using (slow and gentle) power to screw/unscrew mandrels to change scotchbrite pads, and for tools that don't care what direction they rotate (sanding drums, wire brushes, diamond and abrasive points, etc). It's often useful when approaching from different sides of a blade, for instance, to match tool mark texture on both sides. You need to start thinking in terms of "safe" directions - we're not talking about personal injury but scarring up the work, considering the direction the tool is going to move when it gets away from you. Them that have, them that will, and them that will again - don't ask me how I know this...

 

Friction is the enemy of flex shaft tools, longer equals more friction, more heat, shorter working time, shorter shaft life. Plus, the shaft will tend to whip around a bit when hogging at high speed, and I suspect the extra long one will be even worse. With knives, you should always be able to work close enough to the motor so the shaft length won't matter.

Edited December 11, 2011 by tsterling

[Scott Mack]

Thanks Tom i can see where reverse could be a big help.

Scott