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Luke Shearer

Wee Seax

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Okay, finally have something to show. This is my most complicated pattern weld yet. Its technically a 7 bar, but two of the "bars" are just thin shims of 15n20 to frame the twist (BTW my 15n20 is etching darker than my 1080, is that normal pre-final etch?). Its a billet right now, welded up just tonight. The edge is 120 layer 15n20 and 1080; the middle bars are wolf toothed wrought iron + 5 layer wrought iron laminated to some lawnmower blade (1095ish?); next is a twist from wrought iron that should end up being surrounded by 15n20 and 1080; last is a bar or wrought.

 

sorry for the blurry pictures. My camera I have been using seems to be in its death throes.

 

saxbillet.jpg

 

saxbilletground.jpg

 

saxbilletclose.jpg

 

 

More cleaning and grinding and pictures tomorrow. :ph34r:

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Luke thats so wicked! Small and extremely complicated! :D I cant wait to see how you decide to forge it out

 

I just realixed this is in the KITH too... even better!

Edited by MLenaghan

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Awesome bit of patternwelding you have there! That's going to be a cool blade.

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Sweet!!!!

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Very nice work !

Edited by Jacques Delfosse

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very cool... can't wait to see more.

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Heres some progress. Mostly grinding because forging is scary and makes this thing want to come apart, but I did do some forging. So after some coaxing to stay alive, this is were I'm at. I know it doesnt have but a stub tang; I was gonna forge weld one on, but I'm too scared now. I'll probably have my neighbor or someone stick weld an extension on...I hate pattern welding, but I also love it!

 

IMG_2746_edited-1.jpg

 

IMG_2745_edited-1.jpg

 

the wrought in the twist was framed pretty nicely by the 15n20...which is etching light now, instead of dark... :huh::blink:

 

IMG_2744_edited-1.jpg

 

IMG_2743_edited-1.jpg

 

interesting how all the carbon in the wolf tooth seems to have been leached out by the wrought...but in the twist, the 15n20 seems to have inhibited carbon migration...

 

IMG_2742_edited-1.jpg

 

Coming along pretty well. Lets hope it doesnt explode in the quench! :wacko:

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The lawnmower blade in the wolf tooth was very old...it may be sheer steel, it has small inclusions throughout. You can see them in the picture. Just a nice thought...it might not change anything..

Edited by Luke Shearer

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Luke thats BA I'd be happy to draw your name just to se that up close. :o

 

Kip

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That is very nice.

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Luke, that looks awesome. well done seriously well done.

 

if that edge is completely "as you Found it" non- laminate lawnmower blade then that is really very surprising. your theory about shear steel is a good one, but shear is normaly a very subtle grain- think refined wrought.

 

what you have there looks like extremely clean contrasting laminates.... i mean it wont be laminated steel on a mower.... :S

 

very intruiging!

 

a really cannot say with any confidence what the heck is going on there...

 

perhaps post it in the mettulrgy setion... ?

 

either way, looks stunning.

 

Nice one.

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Thanks

 

The edge is straight laminate 15n20/1080. Sorry for the confusion. The mower blade is whiter looking stuff in the wulf tooth. You can see the "inclusions" in the picture second from the bottom. The real grainy stuff is the wrought. Beautiful stuff. I found it hiking in the Rockies B).

 

I got the tang welded on and it ht'd and finnish ground. I'll post something when I can..

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ah heheh

 

i was very confused.

 

i blame tiredness.

 

but yeah, lookin good!

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wow this is awesome Luke! nice one! the twist with the wrought iron stars framed in 15n20 and the black high carbon bars is particularly inspiring. Really nice job man!

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Luke,

Most colors change after hardening so it is best...if you wish to know...to run a test billet where you stack all the material in the blade and quench them then etch.

 

15N20 has enough nickel to make it white, but not enough to even slow down carbon migration...the net is too large.

There could be several reasons for for the color change in the wrought....the main is contact time with a carbon bearing alloy.....the lawnmower-blade was in contact with wrought on both sides and you need to take into account the decarb from the pre-forging as well as the time at temp for welding. I would think the twisted bar was at temp for a shorter time and only has one carbon layer touching it...given that it all seems to be as it should.

 

Ric

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And once again I haven't been looking in the KITH thread, and am sorry for it. :wacko:

 

Nice job, Luke. B)

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Thanks! your comments made me happy

 

Mr. Furrer, thanks for the explanation. I don't have nearly the experience as some of you guys with this stuff.

 

While this is my most complicated P-weld yet, it is also the source of alot of embarrassment. :wacko: I ground through the mig welds on the tang, like the idiot I am, and now, my tang is short again. Plus there are all those stupid welding flaws. Better just forge out a tang from the main billet next time. At least I learned something :P

 

Now I have to think of a solution to turning a stub tang into a through tang...yay...

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Looks good Luke!!

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Now I have to think of a solution to turning a stub tang into a through tang...yay...

 

I have been known to make the stub a long scarf and braze on a similarly scarfed bit of mild steel. You can always pin to hold it in place while brazing. A properly prepared braze joint with a 1" lap can hold up to 80,000 psi straight-line tensile. That's stronger than most arc welds. ;)

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Thanks! your comments made me happy

 

Mr. Furrer, thanks for the explanation. I don't have nearly the experience as some of you guys with this stuff.

 

While this is my most complicated P-weld yet, it is also the source of alot of embarrassment. :wacko: I ground through the mig welds on the tang, like the idiot I am, and now, my tang is short again. Plus there are all those stupid welding flaws. Better just forge out a tang from the main billet next time. At least I learned something :P

 

Now I have to think of a solution to turning a stub tang into a through tang...yay...

Huh? I'd leave the tang as is, at least grinding it into a taper and you have a perfectly historical tang for such a blade. Short tangs were the thing in those days:

 

pic_seax01.jpg

 

B.t.w. why haven't I replied to this thread and mentioned what a fantastically beautiful sax you made yet? :)

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Awesome Luke!

I love it.

 

Mark

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Huh? I'd leave the tang as is, at least grinding it into a taper and you have a perfectly historical tang for such a blade. Short tangs were the thing in those days:

 

pic_seax01.jpg

 

B.t.w. why haven't I replied to this thread and mentioned what a fantastically beautiful sax you made yet? :)

 

I think I'm gonna have to try out the brazing like Mr. Longmire suggested, but those are some beautiful old saxes! It gives me alot of hope, and thanks for the kind words! I guess the old smiths didnt like forging tangs from their hard-earned billets either :)

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I brazed the extension on today. I'm sure the outcome was disgusting, but it was my first time brazing, and it worked! So I'll call that a success. I also made a grip of curly maple, on which I may do a simple carving. The fittings will be some slaggy wrought from the same bar that I used in the wolf tooth. Sorry, no pics because I hate uploading them :rolleyes::wacko:

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Done a bit of carving on the grip...

 

progress.jpg

 

...and here:

 

x\'s.jpg

 

you can see the results of grinding too far into the twisted bars

 

almost done, just needs a little bolster and a small butt plate, and maybe a sheath if I have time.

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