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Grins,

 

Dave

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Three bars of pattern welded steel, right?

 

Doug

 

 

pretty sure its 5 bars - low (12?) layer straight laminate, two bars opposing twist, another of the straight, and some funky very high layer high contrast for the edge billet. Love the fuller and the scraped grooves. Bit of an Owen influence in the blade shape? very cool.

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yay Dave, that thing looks like it will kick some serious butt. at least, from the point...

kc

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So you're a wordsmith too, huh? How long has THIS been going on? :lol:

 

I recognized the blade as having been directly inspired by that tiny trollseax Owen had at Ashokan. ;)

 

Good story so far, man, didn't know you had it in you. B)

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That's a good story and well written, but now I want to read more :-(

 

The little view of the seax is looking great by the way. You have an amazing contrast in the layers - I only get that right after heat treat. After polishing, I have not figured out yet how to increase the contrast.

 

Niels.

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Thanks guys.

 

Alan-Yeah, I totally stole that shape from Owen. I've been writing stories for a long time. I used to publish a few in sci-fi rags like Gaslight and Catalyst until I got out of graduate school and stopped having hours of time to kill.

 

Neil- Are you using a high contrast blend of steels (e.g 15n20 and 10XX?).

 

I etch in one part ferric, four parts water for about 20 minutes (2 ten minute etches, cleaning oxides off between). Then I neutralize with ammonia, clean with my fingertips and some soft scrub until the oxides are all gone, then I buff the blade using black rouge at 3500 rpms.

 

The buffing is what really brings out the contrast. If you etch deeply enough, the high layers get shiny, while the "Valleys" don't get polished.

 

I loved your serpent in the sword project! I'm totally copying your method for getting a serpentine wave on the next Viking sword I do.

 

Dave

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Neil- Are you using a high contrast blend of steels (e.g 15n20 and 10XX?).

 

I etch in one part ferric, four parts water for about 20 minutes (2 ten minute etches, cleaning oxides off between). Then I neutralize with ammonia, clean with my fingertips and some soft scrub until the oxides are all gone, then I buff the blade using black rouge at 3500 rpms.

I am using 15n20 and 1095. My problem might be that I don't get a deep enough etch. I use HCl and even after an hour it's not very deep.

 

I loved your serpent in the sword project! I'm totally copying your method for getting a serpentine wave on the next Viking sword I do.

Glad you liked it. The method was explained to me by a Danish swordsmith last year.

 

In any case, I am looking forward to more updates on Grenovo and his seax.

Niels.

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-Dave, I love your mix of story and blade. Even if I have yet to read the full story, I love the concept and the blade shows promise to become something special.

Owen is a very good guy to be influence by.

 

-Niels: bout ferric chloride, the mixture can be pretty important. The most effective mix by weight is 1 part ferric chloride (solid form) to 2,5 parts water. To etch copper a mix of one part ferric to 2-4 parts water is recommended.

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  • 10 months later...

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