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  • 1 month later...
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Took a look this morning, nice work, love the sword from back in march.

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Thanks guys,



Its nice to make something so quick, most of my work is at least a few days, but a spoon takes less than an hour. thanks for your kind words.

Onen Hag Ol.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Alan,

 

this is another wedding sword, with one of my older blades and a new hilt. Im enjoying overlay even if it does make my eyes ache... will do more of it I think.

Onen Hag Ol.

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  • 1 month later...

well its been a VERY long time since I posted here...........

 

I will try to do it more often....

 

this isn't technically a sword, its a sso (sword shaped object) but its a historically based sso.

 

so enjoy.

 

http://thenewhearth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/grosse-messer.html

Onen Hag Ol.

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Finally got around to looking through your blog Josh. Great stuff! It's fun to watch how you trained black smiths approach the forging of your components. Makes me want to go back and learn some of those basic skills. I'm pretty much just a forge welder and a grinder for the most part. And forger of scrolls. :-)

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  • 3 weeks later...
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cool! that's nice to know.

 

again, so many of these processes are intended to be used with wrought, I would love to make four or five axes of the same pattern in both wrought and mild and get an average for how long they take, im sure the wrought would be markedly quicker just from the softness.

 

back when I forged a lot of wrought for blacksmithing, when I came back to mild steel I couldn't believe how touch it was...

Onen Hag Ol.

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Love watching your work come about. That latest entry where you did the wrap-around bit on the axe was particularly intriguing as I had watched the video some days ago and was similarly curious about that type of application for the cutting edge.

 

Out of curiosity, what did you find "easier" about it? Did you use a power hammer or stick strictly with hand hammering?

When reason fails...

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Hi Vaughn, thanks!

 

I have to say, im pretty excited about this method- once I had made the u shape edge piece, the weld was easier and could be forge much more aggressively than an inserted edge bit.

 

there are a bunch of other factors that give this method a thumbs up from me. Normally, the edge is surrounded by faster moving, softer steel or iron and so normal forging can cause the welds to shear- with this method the slower moving steel sets the pace as it were so you cant "over- forge" the edge piece.

 

theres more surface contact here too, again improving the weld. also when forging the bevel out, rather than thinning all the steel as you would with the inserted method and thus thinning the edge steel (and possibly mis-aligning it) you are forging "pure" tool steel with no risk of low carbon alloy encroaching the edge.

 

Another great benefit here is that if the eye is full bowtie, rather than Asymetric as I did (in hindsight I may have gone full bowtie, but that's more work with a bearded axe), then the seam of the eye weld is interred inside the steel bit. which feels good to me.

 

 

thus crux of it is this.

 

this method was the final method used by the great "by hand" method of axe making utilising forge-welding. After this technique was invented, steels became cheaper and the now common place "monosteel" axe was invented. but whilst these tools were still being made by hand, on an industrial scale, industry decided this was the ultimate method.

 

I think with either proper tooling to forge this "Horseshoe" shaped stock from scratch or the investment to have a custom roll done this would be the way to go.

 

But ive got to sell a lot more for that to happen... !

 

thank pal

Onen Hag Ol.

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