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Relic Oak Fighter


SBranson

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Sheath pictures added

 

This one is inspired by some of the great Anglo Saxon seaxes posted here, though I may be the only one who sees it.:P

 

There are a few new elements here for me and a start of an direction I will explore further back in time.

 

 

The blade is W2, 9 7/8" guard to tip with a sharpened clip. (hence the fighter)

It's quite thick at .284 at the guard with a distal taper that puts the balance point right at the plunge.

 

The spacers are bronze with wrought iron ferrule and butt capp, the guard being forged from an old chain saw bar.

 

The handle is white oak that I aged heavily. The OAL is about 15 3/8"

 

I am still contemplating a style for the sheath.

 

Thanks.

 

relicoakfighter1.jpg

 

relicoakfighter2.jpg

 

relicoakfighter3.jpg

 

relicoakfighter4.jpg

 

relicoakfighter5.jpg

 

A couple hamon shots

relicoakfighter6.jpg

 

relicoakfighter7.jpg

 

relicoakfighter8.jpg

 

And the sheath

 

sheath_1.jpg

 

sheath_2.jpg

 

sheath_3.jpg

 

sheath_4.jpg

 

sheath_5.jpg

Edited by SBranson

- Stuart

www.sbransonknives.com

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Ha... I heard you loud and clear Scott.. :lol:

 

There was a thread on BF I think about using oak on knives and whether it was appropriate in "high end" knives or something like that. I can't remember the consensus but I like white oak. (not that this is high end by any stretch)

I've tried aging it before and this is by far my favourite result.

Edited by SBranson

- Stuart

www.sbransonknives.com

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I love that knife Stuart!

 

My favorite part about this one! is the handle.

 

How did you age it?

The blacksmith and the artist reflect it in their art.

They forge their creativity,closer to the heart.

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Looks great! Nice hamon. Clean plunge cut and ridge line. In my opinion, you have to have precision elements like thos if you're going to pull off the rough, unfinished ricasso thing. It's like saying "Look . . I did that on purpose."

 

Well done.

 

--Dave

-----------------------------------------------

"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly; who errs and comes short again and again; because there is not effort without error and shortcomings; but who does actually strive to do the deed; who knows the great enthusiasm, the great devotion, who spends himself in a worthy cause, who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement and who at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly." -- Theodore Roosevelt

http://stephensforge.com

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very nice work

love the blade !

handle is very sweet

 

becareful of the consensus ... they hated brass, then they hated carbon steel, large grain wood like oak, etc ... but then they'll use cracky wood like ebony, plastic handles, and garbage stainless for a blade :huh:

 

 

G

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Absolutely wonderful. The lines are fantastic and you're use of color and texture really makes the whole thing pop. I wouldn't have thought white oak would come out with so much character, and you absolutely must share your technique for aging it. Did you have it stabilized? Is that a cord wrap around the fore end?

 

Spectacular work.

When reason fails...

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Thanks for the response.. I'm glad to say that the owner is going to get this professionally photographed.

 

I aged the oak by first texturing it with a wire wheel on my foredom. The wire wheel bites into the grain in the softer parts as the tree would age naturally. Next is an accelerated version of vinegaroon. I soaked some steel wool in vinegar and applied it turning the oak black. You don't really need the steel wool as vinegar alone reacts very strongly with the oak but it's more grey without the steel wool. Then sand the high points a bit and a little more texturing.... then some potassium permanganate. This is the stuff used to colour rawhide (and your hands) and will react with any organic material turning it a variety of purples and browns.

A combination of the texturing, sanding, vinegaroon, and potassium permanganate until I was satisfied. Followed by tru-oil which darkens everything and brings out the richness.

And finally, a really quick shot on the buffer with some tripoli brings out a little sheen.

 

Oh yeah, that is hemp wrap that was first soaked in potassium permanganate to darken then applied a coated with west system 207 clear coating epoxy.

Edited by SBranson

- Stuart

www.sbransonknives.com

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