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It's always been a struggle to properly and evenly heat longer blades with my 12 inch forge.

So, I lengthened one.

Rather than just go larger in diameter and vastly increase the volume to heat, I used the same 12" body but welded in 6 inch webs to effectively lengthen the heat zone.

Now my Bowies and Fighter get heated right.

Here's the constructed forge body:

 

Alaskan-d6-1.jpg

 

And here is the forge AFTER! it has been running at welding temp for 15+ minutes.

It's lined with 2" ceramic blanket and heavily coated with Satanite.

1" wool on the floor covered with 4" of clay cat litter to catch flux.

2" wool in the ceiling:

 

forge1.jpg

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Hey! Glad to see I'm not the only one doing the "limo stretch" on forges. Mostly a space saver for me, but the forges seem to work well, so no downside.

 

Dan

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Are you running a single burner?

 

 

Yes - this is the picture of the exact burner I am using in the 12 inch forge. This was in my old shop, and I have shortened it some, but still the same basic assembly.

I use it in both forges.

 

DSCF0006-1-1.jpg

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How is your fuel economy?

 

I am liking my T-rex but it dosnt have the raw power my old blown forge had..... but my old forge ate a 40 pound tank in less than 8 hours and i can run for over 24 on my new burner.

 

I am wondering if it was a design flaw on my part....

 

Thanks!

 

~~DJ

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  • 3 weeks later...

They also tend to run hotter then a venturi, my little burner has been running off a 100lb tankbfor a few months so far, I like mine, but it sound like a jet turbine. My forge will burn you if you touch it, and its got the same amount of lining on it as yours, 2" of kaowool, and about 7.5 lbs of satanite and bubble alumina. I used 2.5 lbs of the bubble alumina on the floor. And 5 lbs of satanite on the body. What did you use for your forge shell?

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