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Well guys... I don't have a name for it yet or really any idea what I am doing but I have decided to have a go at a pipe hawk ( I plan to dress it up to fit the theme if I pull it off)

 

Here it is so far. It is forged from a very old crow bar. Do you think it should have enough carbon in to serve as an axe or should I forge weld a HC bit in?

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Rob that looks great so far. It seems to me that steel would be good enough to hold an edge however my knowledge of steel is minimal at best. Cant wait to see you work threw this one.

 

Kip

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Thanks Kip

I ran out of time today to do any more. I have yet to make a drift for the hole and have a fair bit more forging but all going well I hope to give my new dremel a workout and try my hand at engraving. I have had a bit of trouble making coal due to the wet too. I thought of building a gas forge but forging in coal is what I love so I will stick with it.

Edited by Rob Toneguzzo
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Hey Rob that looks great! If that crowbar was not a cheap Chineese varity, it should be a mid range carbon steel( @1065)! It has to be hardenable, or it would bend when your prying up plywood flooring that is full of spiral nailS ! Or so I would think

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I've used crow bars and old rock drills for hawks. No idea what type of steel they were but they hardened up nice in an oil quench. I used them because they were free and already we octagonal in shape. That saved alot ot pounding. Word of advice about using old rock drills. They are a bear to forge! Your hawk is looking great so far. I look forward to seeing the progress.

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Well guys it was a tough crowbar so I thought it would be ok. I have heaps of it so I can do some tests in any case. I have been looking at heaps of pics of old pipe hawks ... Boy they have character.

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I've used a few pry bars for knife steel. Haven't come across one yet that didn't harden magnificently. I like where you're going with this one

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Rob, as far as mystery metal goes you can get a ballpark estimate just by thinking about what the tool was used for. In this case I'd bet a crow bar would be just fine. However, before you go putting a lot of time and effort into a piece it's a very good idea to do some simple testing... forge the stock down to maybe 3mm or less and do some tests with quenching in oil, and water. Do testing with different tempering ranges. Check hardness and impact toughness at each tempering range and you should get a good idea of what you're working with. You probably won't nail the heat treat with mystery metal just because you don't know what you're dealing with, but sometimes that's okay.

 

Good work on the forging looks pretty nice so far. Two words of advice though, number one... hawks and axes can almost always go thinner than you think, just keep that in mind. And number two, it's almost always easier to make the eye first when you're forging these sorts of things. The way I look at it is I try to do the most violent procedures first (the ones that have the highest probability of disrupting the other elements of the piece). But I suppose that is more for your next hawk. Looks good though!

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Rob, as far as mystery metal goes you can get a ballpark estimate just by thinking about what the tool was used for. In this case I'd bet a crow bar would be just fine. However, before you go putting a lot of time and effort into a piece it's a very good idea to do some simple testing... forge the stock down to maybe 3mm or less and do some tests with quenching in oil, and water. Do testing with different tempering ranges. Check hardness and impact toughness at each tempering range and you should get a good idea of what you're working with. You probably won't nail the heat treat with mystery metal just because you don't know what you're dealing with, but sometimes that's okay.

 

Good work on the forging looks pretty nice so far. Two words of advice though, number one... hawks and axes can almost always go thinner than you think, just keep that in mind. And number two, it's almost always easier to make the eye first when you're forging these sorts of things. The way I look at it is I try to do the most violent procedures first (the ones that have the highest probability of disrupting the other elements of the piece). But I suppose that is more for your next hawk. Looks good though!

Hey thanks,

 

Some good advice there which I will deffinately take on board. I was thinking that about the hole.. I have yet to make a drift for the hole (which I realise now I should have made first) I am going to make the drift from an old axel..... I was wanting to make it an oval shape.with a slight taper.

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Well the drift worked well and I was happy with the result. Next time I will definitely drift the hole first thing. It is not completely in line but I should be able to true it up next round of forging. Now to forge the blade.

 

I hope to also give a wrapped hawk a go soon.

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Thanks Nate

I just discovered my old crowbar is actually an old drilling rod which are often used as crowbars. Anyhow I am on holidays as of tomorrow so I should get some forging in.

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Rob that looks awesome. A pipe hawk is something I have always wanted to try. You mad it look easy, great job!!!

 

Kip

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Nice job on the eye, Rob!

 

Have a few spare handles around before you start drilling them. ;)

 

Seriously, the guy I get them from drills the blanks when they are 8 to 10 cm (that's 2 to 4 inches) square, THEN shapes the handle to match the way the hole chose to go.

 

You can also make up a jig to align the bit and handle, B.Finnegan made one that worked well some years ago.

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Nicely done so far sir and for drilling handles here's a little photo tutorial - http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=25979.0 I believe you can see it with registering.

 

Also for those interested in tomahawks you can now download for free in several formats, Harold Peterson's seminal work on the subject

http://archive.org/details/americanindiant00pete

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Well good and bad news

 

Good - steel hardens very well

Bad- I stuffed it up and had to start again. As Nate advised I forged the hole first this time.

 

Well... If at first you don't succeed...

 

Pipe Hawk MkII

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Here is MK II so far .... Good from afar but far from good.... Oh... I got some goggles until I get a respirator.

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Edited by Rob Toneguzzo
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At last a face to put with the name! Good ta meet ya mate!

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Rob

 

That turned out awesome!!!! I was going to try a wrap around but after watching your progress on this it makes me want to try this method. Im glad we have until September I feel I may need it.

 

Kip

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Hi there right back Fred. That would make a good thread...Face to the name.

 

Hi Kip... I am going to give a wrap around a go soon... Hey I did cheat a bit and drilled a few pilot holes but I will get a thinner cutting chisel and feel confident I won't need to drill anymore.

 

I am no expert but I got it nice and hot and took my time cutting the slot with multiple heats. When the chisel was through I moved to the drift and did the same thing. As soon as I saw any dark spots I stopped and re heated. I kept the cutting edge out of the coals and it did not get above dull red.

 

Anyhow here is MK II so far. I am leaning toward leaving some forge marks but hope to do some engraving on the blade... Not sure what theme yet

 

Still got to hollow out the pipe too.

 

I thinned the blade down but left some "meat" for a bit of carving perhaps. Anyhow any advice comments etc appreciated.

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Thanks John

I cleaned it up a bit and am pondering and pondering. I will drill the pipe next but want to try my hand at carving.. Just can't decide what to do... Thinking of an organic theme.

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